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|)ii;tdhe?1!ije 

pI^TOI(lCi^L 

m DE^Clf(ipTlVE. 



By J. ^. ^\n\\m^. 



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KWKJHT AMD LEOflAI(D, 




1882. 



TO Act of Conghess, 
C. K. LORD. 



All rights reserved. 



.-\ 



PREFACE. 

Extended prefatory remarks are not deemed necessary: the tale of the 
weeks spent upon the Picturesque Line of America is told as each day 
unfolded new realizations of Nature's gifts so lavishly dispensed over the 
country to which the narrative refers. The outline of the early history 
and of the present magnitude of the organization which has indelibly 
stamped its impress upon that which has most enhanced the glory of 
American progress will induce renewed admiration for its half century's 
devotion to the highest principles of true and enduring advancement. 
The memories of the strife the final throes of which a nation waited long 
years for with bated breath, invoked by the presence where contentions 
were fiercest, will be greeted as are those kindled by the reverent glance 
upon the treasured possessions of the loved and the lost. Out of the 
great heart of a united people has bitterness been plucked, and he who 
wore the blue stands by the side of him who wore the gray; scenes of 
past animosities are hallowed in the eyes of both, and tribute tender and 
touching is paid to the grand heroism of friend and foe alike. The narra- 
tive throughout is the reflection of that which was seen, was heard, and 
was enjoyed. No more faithful is the story of the scribe than the pencil 
of the artist. Every engraving that appears in the following pages is 
entirely new, and, without a single exception, is made from nature, — 
not from photographs, as is customary even in illustrated works of dis- 
tinguished merit. Further than this, all were drawn and cut for e.xclu- 
sive use in this work, without having in immediate view their utility for 
subsequent appearance in magazines. Very manj' readers of current liter- 
ature will appreciate the absolute freshness of "Picturesque B. and O."; 
and moreover the charm of novelty will not be marred by recurrence in 
other publications. The inapproachable character of the illustrations is 
evidenced in themselves. The single fact that Thomas Moran had fur- 
nished upward of seventy entirely new drawings for any one work would 
at once establish its surpassingly high character in the first artistic circles 
of the continent; and when are added to the productions of this cele- 
brated artist those of such coadjutors as W. Hamilton Gibson, Sol. Eytinge, 
J. O. Davidson and W. L. Sheppard, a determination to attain the highest 
standard of excellence cannot fail to be apparent. In keeping with the 
fame of the artists is the roll of the engravers, including as it does 
such names as Bogert, Morse, Lauderbach, Karst, Clement, Davis, Mayer, 
Smart, Brighton, Filmer, Held, Pettit, Harley, and the American Bank 
Note Company. 

f 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



SUBJErT. ARTIST. ENGKAVEE. PAGE. 

CovEK, C.E.Sickds, . . Aw.Bk.X,.uV„. 

Yellowstone Sol. Eytinge, . . J.Karst, . . 11 

Tom Sol. Eytinge, . . J. P. Duels, . 11 

Ben, Sol. Eytinge, . . J. Kaist, . . 13 

Apple Jack Sol. Eytinge, . . J. Kant, . . 13 

The Fairt, Sol. Eytinge, . . J. Karst, . . 15 

Locust Point — Elevators,. . . . J. 0. Davidson,. . J.Karst, . . 17 

LocDST Point — Marine Terminus, J. 0. Davidson, . J. Karst, . . 19 

Home of the B. and O., A. C. Warren, . . Am.Bk.NoteCo. 'il 

Viaduct at Relay, T. Moran, . . . R. F. Rae, . . 23 

Relay House T. Moran, ... J. Karst, . . 35 

By the Wayside, W. Samitton Oibsoa, Am.Bk.NoteCo. 27 

Point of Rocks, T. Moran, . . . J. A. Bogert, . 29 

Potomac below Catoctin, . . . . T. Moran, ... J". Karst, . . 29 

Potomac at Weverton, T. Moran, . . . J. Karst, . . 31 

Harper's Ferry T. Moran, . . . J. Karst, . . 33 

Street in Harper's Ferry, . . . T. Moran, . . . J. A. Bogert, . 35 

Jefferson Rock T. Moran, . . . J. Karst, . . 37 

Rattling Spring, T. Moran, . . . J. Karst, . . 87 

John Brown's Fort, 1'. Moran, . . . J. Karst, . . 37 

From Bolivar Heights T. Moran, ...,/. Karst, . . 39 

Byrne's Island, T. Moran, . . . J. Kant, . . 41 

The Shenandoah, T. Moran, ..../. Karst, . . 41 

Jordan's Sulphur, T. Moran, ..../. Karst, . . 43 

'Fore de L.\.wd! W. L. Slieppard, . J.Karst. . . 45 

The Circus at Rock Enon W. L. Slieppard, . J. Karst, . . 45 

Rock Enon T. Moran, . . . G. Mayer, . . 47 

Brook and Spring, T. Moran, . . . J. Karst, . . 49 

Capon, T. Moran, . . . J. Karst, . . 51 

Capon Lake, T. Moran, . . . J. Karst, . . 51 

On the Way to Orkney, .... 7". Moran, . . . E.Schoonmaker, 58 

Orkney 7". Moran, . . . J. A. Bogert, . 58 

Shen.ivndoah Ai.um T. Moran, . . . J. Pettit, . . 55 

The Springs, T. Moran, ..../. Pettit, . . 55 

Rawley, T. Moran, . . . R. M. Smart, . 57 

Idiotic Jump T. Moran, . . . E. Brighton, . 59 

Page Valley T. Moran, . . . E. Brighton, . 59 

Rockbridge Alu.m, T. Moran, ... J. Harley, . 61 

Jordan Alum, T. Moran, . . . J. A. Bogert, . 63 

Grist, T. Moran, . . . J. Karst, . . 63 

MiLLBORO' T. Moran, . . . J. Clement, . 65 

Have You a Stonebrdise? .... W. L. S/teppard, . J.Karst, . . 65 

Wallawiiatoola T. Moran, . . . W.H.Morse, . 67 

Bath Alu.m, T. Moran, . E.Sehoonm/tker, 69 



Illustrations. 



CoMPOKTABLY FixED, W. L. Sheppord, 

Green Valley, T. Moran, 

Warm Springs, T. Moran, 

The Ji)sthete, O. Ferris, 

Toll, W. L. Sli/ipp, 

Hot Springs T. Moran, 

Healing SpRiN(is T. Moran, . 

Falling Springs, T. Moran, 

Old Sweet, T. Moran, 

At the Bath, T- Moran, . 

Red Sweet — Sweet Chalybeate, . T. Moran, . 

Beaver Dam Falls, T. Moran, 

Sw'eet Old Return, W. L. Sheppard, 

Hullo There ! Sol. Eytinge, 

A Virginia Landlord, W. L. Sheppard, 

White Sulphur, T. Moran, . . 

A Virginia Belle W. L. Sheppard, 

The Bold Climber, W. L. SJmppard, 

Luray Cave, T. Moran, . . 

What's the Price oi' Tan Bark ? . W. L. 

Berkeley, T. Moran, 

All Aboard, T. Moran, 

Sir John's Run, T. Moran, 

Washington Club House, . . . . T. Moran, 

Queens op the Field, W. Hamilton Oibaon, 

Cumberland, 7". Moran, 

National Bridge, T. Moran, 

Devil's Backbone, T. Moran, 

Will's Creek T. Moran, 

Camp McGraw T. Moran, 

The Youghioghkny T. Moran, 

Ohio Pyle and Falls, T. Moran, 

Cuci.mber Falls, T. Moran, 

A Hard Road to Travel, . . . . W. L. Sheppard, 

Tan T. Moran, 

Mouth op Indian Creek, .... 7'. Moran, 



T. Moran, . 
T. Moran, . 
T. Moran, . 
W. T. Smedky, 
T. Moran, . 



Palisades cp the Potomac, . . 
Near the Source op the Potomac, 

Deer Park, 

On the Porch at Deer Park, 
Garrett Cottage, Deer Park, 

Oakland, T. Moran, 

Oakland Viliage, T. Moran, 

Cranberry Falls, T. Moran, 

On Cranbkrry Grade, T. Moran, 

The Heart op the Alleohanies, T. Moran, 

Clemen'is' Fountain, T. Moran, 

Mountain Sweets, W. Ilamilton Gibson, 

Cheat River near Rowlesburo, . . T. Moran, 
Twilight on the Grade, . . . . T. Moran, 



J. Karst, . 
E. Brighton, 
J. TMuderbach 
J. Karst, ■ 
J. Clement, 
G. Bogert, . 
J. A. BogeH, 
J. A. Bogert, 
J. Fihner, . 
E. C. Ih'ld, 
E. C. Held, 
E. C. Held, 
J. Karst, . 
J. P. Davis, 
J. P. Davis, 
Am.Bk.NoteCo. 
J. Karst, . 
J. Karst, . 
J. Karst, . 
J. Karst, . 
J. Clement, 
J. Clement. 
J. Clement, 
J. Karst, . 
Am.Bk.NoteCi 
J. Karst, . 
J. Karst, . 
Am.Bk.NoteCo 
Am..Bk.NoteCo. 
./. Karst, 
J. Karst, 
./. Karst, 
J. Kar.^t, 
J. Karst, 
C. Mayer. 
J. A. Boge 
T. Smart, 
J. Clement. 
J. Karst, 
J. Karst, 
G. Bogert, 
Am.Bk.Note Co 
G. Mayer, 
Am.Pk.XoteCo 
J. Karst, . 
J. Karst, . 
J. Karst, . 
Am.Bk.NoteC, 
J. Hnrley. . 
J. Liiiiderbaeh 



r*GE. 
69 
71 
73 

75 
75 
77 
79 
81 



OFF. 



T^'P^IJ.OWSTONE Y said he would come down by the Elevated, 
• allowing twenty minutes to make it in from tiie Fifth Avenue. 
Ben had with characteristic good nature volunteered to give his personal 
attention to the finishing details, and leaving the B. and O. office, three- 
fifteen Broadway, would meet Yellowstone at the depot, foot of Cortlandt 
street. The Fairy, as usual, had a hundred and one things to do within 
the last hour, and decided it would be most convenient to reach the busy 
shores of North River at the Desbrosses-street depot. Young Luap, 
being the only unmarried man, had to .stand more upon the order of his 
going, — the dear creature in Brooklyn necessitating close figuring on 
the time of the annex boat. Thus it happened that the Four started 
from almost as many points of the compass for the common destination, 
the Jersey City depot, whence the B. and O. trains start westward. All 
roads lead to Rome, and such was the case in this instance, with the 
slight modification of substituting Jersey for Rome. Yellowstone and 
Ben on the Cortlandt-street ferry, and the Fairy on the Desbrosses-street 
boat, sailed serenely into adjoining slips, while the young gallant fresh 
from the embraces of the girl he left behind him reached a neighboring 
pier almost at the same instant. 

It was no great number of years ago that a reunion of four kindred 
spirits could not have taken place with such little exertion and ease in 
transit. The memory of the oldest inhabitant is not absolutely essen- 
tial to discover, in the whirligig of time, the day when to reach the foot 
of Cortlandt street was a matter of hours, even after satisfying the 
demands of the gentle hackman. To get down from anywhere between 
■Twenty-third street and Central Park was more fatiguing than is the 
journey to Washington, while from Brooklyn over was an outrageous 
loss of time, considering how short this life is. Now the elevated roads 
on the one hand and the annex boats on the other give a man a chance to 
breathe. The Sixth and Eighth avenue lines have stations on Cortlandt 
street, both vcithin two or three squares of the depot, and up-town people 
who are pressed for time can .save it by going to the depot at the foot of 
Desbrosses street. Ferry boats from the streets named, as well as the 
annex boat from the foot of Fulton street, Brooklyn, run directly to the 



10 Thron<,h (■„,:< .u„l Tl,h,;/K. 

depot oil the .lersoy siilc, iiiakiiiiJ' sliarp comiectioii with the 15. :inil ( ). 
trains. 

It was the seven i"..\i. the quartet were seeking, and a riglit royal 
train it proved to be. What with baggage and e.xpress ears, passenger 
coaches, and sleeping cars, its length was suggestive of the mighty power 
of steam, while the general beauty of construction and exterior embellish- 
ment betokened a keenness of perception in combining the practical with 
the artistic which was highly creditable to the Company. This seven 
o'clock express on the Baltimore and Ohio Hailroad- is in several I'espects 
without an equal among all the througli trains leaving the metropolis. 
In the railroad literature of the day the absence from general usage of a 
term to concisely express a new feature is by no means a bar to its pro- 
curement. As it is with the shopkeeper — "If you don't see what you 
want, ask for it," — so it is with the railroad man, — what he lacks in no- 
menclature, he makes. The seven o'clock train lias at least one feature 
not possessed by any other to the West from New York, — it runs through 
without change of cars of any class whatever. This requires that it be 
distinctively known; hence it is termed the Solid Train. Another advan- 
tage lies in the fact that by no other line out of Ni w Vork city can 
passengers destined for Cincinnati, Louisville, St. Louis, Columbus and 
(jhicago leave together on the same train. Tiiis, as can readily be imag- 
ined, is oftentimes a .source of no little pleasure, as friends bound for 
these different points may travel together for nearly, if not quite, half 
the journey. The train as it is made up runs through solid to Chicago, 
but to it are attached .sleeping-cars pa.ssing direct to Cincinnati and St. 
Louis. To those who, from choice or necessity, make the journey from 
New York to the Garden City in the regular passenger coach, the con- 
venience of a car traversing the entire distance without change requires 
no extended comment. Since the introduction of sleeping cars the fatigue 
of a long journey has been greatly done away with, as the principal 
lines attach them to all leading cities. Still it is not every man who 
cares to, or can, go to the expense of these specially provided luxuries; 
and to such the privilege of occupying a through coach without extra 
cost is certainly appreciated. It often happens, on routes where changes 
of cars are necessitated, that they are made during the night; and while 
this may not be of much moment to :i iii;ui traveling alone, it is n very 
serious inconvenience when there are lailirs cir children tn be nioM-d. 
In any event, it is decidedly preferable to be |MTiiiitted \u remain in 
one car; and the B. and O., in leadiiii; oil' with tlie sc.liii-tiain svsteni, 
deserves the heartiest commendation. 

Such was the unanimous verdict of tin- (|uartet, reiideied ,.n behall of 
the general |iiililie, but personally the diU'eicrit iiieinl.eis i hcTi-i.f had vastly 



/,-/ (>. 



n 




-like form in the otiier state- 
room, while Ben and Luap divided 
between them the two sumptuous 
lounges in the main saloon of the car. 
The accommodations were indeed fit 
for princes, and all retired the first 
night to dream of the closest intimacy 
with railway monarchs. 

T. Y.ellowstone Y, artist and trav- 
eler, was the most energetic seeker 
after the picturesque in nature that 
ever climbed a mountain or took :i 
yawning chasm at a single leaj). 
As light on his feet as a mountain 
goat, he had no more conception of 
fear than if lie were made of rubber, 
and a fail of a thousand feet simply 
the cjuestioii of how high he might 



ach individual nuMnlicr consti- 
uting it: and to a ceitain extent 
his conceit was shared In- the 
ailroad management, as a pri- 
ate car had been placed at the 
lisposal of the Four. It was at- 
aehed to the seven o'clock train 
inmediately behind the sleejier 
or Chicago, and Tom stood at 
he door to welcome the quartet 
i ith all the deferential politeness 
lid .smiles of the typical .Mary- 
uid darkey. Tom, as steward 
of No. 217, duly appreciated his 
ixalted position in all its bear- 
ings, as also did the Four, and 
■ odily the understanding be- 
\Men white and black was all 
that could be -desired. Yellow- 
■~tone had the bridal chamber, or, 
in other words, the most scrump- 
tious of the staterooms. Tlie 
F&iry found a resting-place for 




12 77/-' (Jimrtet. 

rebound dm stiikinu; the rocks below. His name known of fame on both 
sides of the l)ig pond, he was none the less an agreeable companion, 
reputation and liigh position in his profession being to him most satisfac- 
torily- represented in the ruling- jjrice of his productions. Socially unas- 
suming and considerate, a charming talker, and a nuisician of rare power 
of expression, it was good to lie wilh him. 

B. Franklin, or Ben for shoit, m.lili- in |iliysir:il proportions and great 
of heart, never knew the time when lie would not rather help others than 
himself. He was possessed of the happiest of faculties, — that of being 
alwaj-s on the alert to do a favor, and never at a loss to appreciate just 
how it should be done. The most inquisitive individual that ever acquired 
the growth of six feet in his stockings, the life-history of man, woman or 
child was to him as easy of extraction as the juice from an orange; the 
process was so natural that his features were the constant personification 
of innocence, and one might well be condoned the doubt as to sugar 
melting in his mouth. Such virtue as there is said to be in the laughter 
that tends to fat growing Ben could be depended upon to demonstrate; 
and when convulsions seemed most imminent there would be upon his face 
an expression of guileless wonderment that simply capped the climax of 
hilarity. The last one to bed at night and the first one up in the morning, 
his animation tired not, his good spirits knew no flagging, and his tongue 
consistently retained that degree of activity best calculated to make him 
a match for the liveliest of mother-in-laws. 

The Fairy, so called from the fact of his waistband measuring fifty odd 
inches, and of his pedal extremities being of such dimensions as to iiint at 
the need of an uncommon building for the construction of their coverings, 
was of a literary turn of mind, with a strong tendency to art. Almost as 
large one way as the other, and as full of the " Old Nick " as a sixteen- 
year-old, when not eating, sketching or taking notes, could be counted 
upon as sure to infuse animation into inanimate things lying loose about 
the car. Fond of the good things of this life, and by general consent the 
caterer of the party, three square meals per day were as certain as that 
the Fairy's avoirdupois exceeded two hundred and a quarter. Between 
him and Tom there straightwaj' was established a fellow-feeling inaking 
them wondrous kind, and which was destined to communicate its filling- 
influences to the party entire. 

Young Luap was, in his way, as stilking a |icissrssion as any in I ho 
menagerie, and although the last of the l''ou]- to In; trottrd out, was by no 
means entitled to such place by rea.son of characteristics lacking; indeed 
he possessed them to such a degree as to almost require an apology for not 
mentioning him first. Smart as a whip, but far fi-om as pliable, he com- 
prehended more in a moment than tin- l)alanci' of the (|uartet could grasp 
in a week. At that agcwln'u thr diiilnma is looked upon as letters patent 



Picturesque B. mid O. 



to the possession of the world, 
any hesitancy in according him 
the absolute ownership was met 
by prompt disputation. To him 
white might be black if ho so 
pleased, and no knight of old 
fought more bravely for his lady- 
love than Luap for his contradic- 
tions. An aesthete would at sight 
declare him " a gainsay young- 
man," and hit the nail upon the 
head. He must have come into 
the world contradicting every- 
body who played any part in iiis 
advent. But he was an enjoyable 
associate, his pet conceit adding 
spice to his intercourse and his 
uniform good nature in doing 
anything within his power for 
anybody calling forth the warm- 
est affection. But few of his age 
were blessed with a brighter or 




^ 




.^ 


J- 

Wyf\ 

7 



clearer intellect, and when ten years 
older and he finds there is still a 
great deal he does not know, he will 
be the better for it. History fails to 
record the exact location, of his boy- 
hood habitation, but if in the coun- 
try, then certain it is that the or- 
chards in the immediate vicinity of 
his home suffered. In the apple-eat- 
ing line Luap was so distinguished a 
success that he was forthwith dubbed 
Apple Jack, and as such the narra- 
tive will know him henceforth. 

It would hardly be fair to give 
Tom the cold shoulder by ignoring 
his claims to place in this picture- 
gallery. Aside from the importance 
of the position which he filled at his 
end of the car, he was a good deal of 
a character, having in his general 



14 TInn ,n„l X,„r. 

make-up several points rather out of the average run. Short, and so 
compressed that his head and body seemed to be in constant conllict as 
to wiiere the one left off or tlie other began, physically speaking, he was 
not particularly symmetrical. Yet his face was decidedly attractive, — 
beauty in bronze relief, but beauty nevertheless. Like all chunky, thick- 
set men, his strength was something to measure well before calling it into 
violent action; but, unlike the majority of vassals of his hue, he was 
active, energetic, and slept only when there was nothing else for him to 
do. He was lightning, culinarily speaking, and the celerity with which 
he could prepare, cook and spread was amazing. As faithful to his prom- 
ises as in his fealty to those he served, his delight was a word of pr;iise, 
and it was his pride that he never presumed upon it. 

Tom found an old acquaintance in the porter of the sleeping car ahead, 
and returned therefrom with such glowing accounts of the elegance of the 
new sleeper that the Four resolved to have a look at it. Yellowstone, ow- 
ing to his distinction in artistic circles, was made chief of inspectors, and, 
with three assistants in his rear, proceeded to business. The car proved 
indeed to be " a tiling of beauty," and while possibly not " a joy forever," 
still its staunrh consti-ini ion. Its s])acious dinicnsions and stately propor- 
tions iuiiply justified the conviction that it was no creation of a day. The 
traveling public, after years and years of almost barbaric simplicity in the 
matter of railroad accommodations, might well have been pardoned the 
belief that the one great corporation which practically introduced and 
perfected the sleeping-car system could liave no successful rival. So 
long had journeys been made by night and by day in the ordinary 
coach, that the traveler hailed as a liberator from torture the man 
whose name is to-day a household word. No man, however, has accom- 
plished that which the coming man cannot e.xcel. This true, it must 
])ass without dispute that when so loyal an advocate of this principle 
as tlic 15. and O. entered the field of sleeping-car competition there 
could not be any going backward, but instead the initial step taken 
forward from <i point where monopoly had declared no foot should be 
jilaced. »Vs a matter of course there was a war of words, fat fees for 
lawyers, and all that sort of tiling. It was the same old story of the canine 
in the feed-bo.x, with this significant exception, that the canine must be 
understood as taking an airing with his caudal extremity in a manner ad- 
niiiably adjusted to a rail whiTcon to ride. The sleeping cars were not 
only l.iiilt aii.l cpiippcd, l.ut were placed where they would be of the 
greatest beneht alike to the public and the Company. Contrary to the 
rule of construction which had prevailed, the sleepers were not built as are 
watches now-a-days, with every part so exact that it is not of the slight- 
est concern which watch the parts are em|>loyo(l in to insure completeness. 
There never was a time when the love of ilie artistic was more strongly 



I'!ft,. 



15 



displayed and the highest taste in all things better defined tlian at the 
present day. And this is by no means confined to the wealthiest class, 
for the possession of much money is no more the evidence of culture than 
it was during the shoddy days of the war. To a greater or less e.\tent this 
elevation of taste is indicated in almost every class of society, its actual 
development being oftentimes curbed by limited circumstances, which 
effectually prevent many persons artistically inclined from giving full play 
to their desires. No one would deem it in good taste to furnish and 

decorate the interiors of a square 

~*\ of fine residences alike, with the 
system of repetition so rigid!}' 
perfect that the transposing of 
everything from one house to 
another would not be noticed. As 
the lover of the beautiful finds 
fresh sources of gratification in 
visiting new scenes, so should the 
traveler have novel revelations of 
artistic effects when for the time 
being within the comparatively 
contracted confines of a railway 
car. Monotony is disagreeable at 
all times, and never more so than 
when upon a journey. Appreci- 
ating this, and at the same time 
imbued with the all-prevailing 
passion for the artistic, the Com- 
y, in the building of sleep- 
ing and parlor cars, had them 
designed in nearly as many dif- 
ferent styles as to decoration and 
furnishing as there were cars. 
All the beautiful woods now so 
■iiiK KviKv popular for interior use were intro- 

duced, — mahogan}', oak, rosewood, 
black-walnut, maple, ash. 'I'lie upholstering and fresco work matched to 
perfection in every instance. While thus studying so earnestly to please 
the eye, it was none the less so to insure that comfort to the body with- 
out which all else would be hut "love's labor lost." There were many 
opportunities for improvement in practical appliances. In the old make 
of cars the seats were at once too narrow and too high, and the space 
between the lower and the u])per berths when the latter were let down was 
such that the occupant of the former had to make a corkscrew of himself 




16 Of a Mf//>t. 

in order to move about without peril to head or limb. These very unde- 
sirable features were abolished by the lowering and widening of the seats 
and the addition of considerable space between berths. Another innova- 
tion was an increase in the width of the berths, the B. and O. .sleepers 
being not only higher and wider than the old-style car, but more roomy in 
every respect. But of all the new departures none have given more gen- 
uine satisfaction than the provisions made for a comfortable night's rest. 
There are cars and cars, — some of them gorgeous in brass filigree, resplen- 
dent in brilliant contrasts and dazzling in veneer. All that the most 
ardent assthete could sigii for, to look at, is there ; but when night dims 
the glamour and the body yearns for rest, then may come something quite 
discordant with previous feelings : mattresses that do not reach within 
ten or twelve inches of the side of the car, and so abbreviated that 
the feet of the luckless passenger hang like Haman between heaven and 
earth ; sheets and blankets of such an e.xtent as to necessitate cold feet 
or bare shoulders, and pillows meager enough to suggest the advisability 
of stringing them together that they may not disappear in one's ears. 
Old and experienced travelers know full well that if exaggerations have 
been indulged in, they are, in the light of facts, justifiable. Many among 
them have used wraps and overcoats to remedy the defects in sheets and 
blankets, while the stuffing in of blankets to fill the chilling void between 
mattress and car-side has not been an infrequent experience. If there is 
one advantage over another that is possessed by the B. and O. sleepers, it 
is that of ample accommodation for a perfect night's rest. This has been 
looked after with the most careful eye, and it is hazarding nothing to state 
that no sleeping cars ever built more richly merit the name. The mat- 
tresses are of the finest hair, thick, and of such dimensions as to fill entirely 
the spaces between the side of the car and the arm of the seat; the 
linen is of the best; the sheets, together with the blankets, are of such 
unrestricted length that the tallest individual can have no fears of catch- 
ing cold from exposed extremities, or suffer from rheumatism between the 
shoulders from a lack of sufficient covering. While more or less attention 
has been paid in other cars to the comfort and convenience of gentlemen 
who desire to smoke en route, it has been, as a rule, less rather than more. 
In most instances this mindfulness has been confined to a little box of 
an apartment, in which but two gentlemen could sit with any degree- 
of comfort, and after smoking for half an hour the air would become 
such as to lead to a hasty retreat. In many sleepers there are no accom- 
modations for lovers of the weed, and they arc forced into a second-class 
car, where the fragrance of their havanas renders the atmosphere but 
barely endurable. Recognizing that fully two-thirds of tlie gentlemen 
who travel in palace cars are fond of smoking, and that they find in its 
indulgence a pleasant pastime, the Company in the con.structing of its 



Picturesque B. and O. 












1 Nl 


1 


' .- 1 

i '" ■ 


pv 


-if 


\ 1,11, III sgwB 


^^^ijJS^^^rxV' 


P 




^^^.^ 



LOCT-ST POINT — EI EV\TORs 



sleepei s made ample pro- 
vision foi this class of 
1 iss( ngers All the smoking' 
looms aie ot such unusual 
(linunsions that as many as 
eight gentlemen may sit in comfort and c-njoy to perfection the influences 
of the weed. It would be idle for any one to argue that there must 
be a want of that experience which the old company possesses in the 
handling and care of sleeping cars, and as a consequence the new system 
cannot be perfect in all its details. The superintendent, fiom his long 



18 ' Baltimore. 

service in a like capacity with the older corporation, is no inexperienced 
official; and as very many of tlie conductors and porters served under him 
there, they are none the less experienced now. It is quite natural that 
the defeat of the combination seeking to control the entire sleeping-car 
system of the country should be followed by resentful feelings, which 
are by no means decreased as the new system proves so conclusively its 
power as a competitor. Tiie questions at issue were determined in the 
highest courts of the land. Injunctions would not hold water, and pre- 
dictions of failure have been demonstrated as futile. The Company's 
sleeping cars are run without change between New York, Philadelphia, 
Baltimore and Washington to Cincinnati, St. Louis and Chicago, and will 
continue long after other great railway lines have established their inde- 
pendence of the would-be monopoly and proven to the public their ability 
to manage their own business without the assistance of outside concerns. 
As the train pulled into the depot in Philadelphia the quartet passed 
out into the magnificent new edifice which is the admiration of the 
Quaker City. The millions of money expended in perfecting the entrance 
of a railway to the very heart of the populous center of commerce have 
demonstrated once again the force of man's will. That which was said 
could not be accomplished has become a fixed fact, and the lesson thus 
told in one city cannot be lost on others where the obstacles to be over- 
come are almost as nothing in comparison. The cry "All aboard ! " came 
from the lusty lungs of the conductor, and the quartet, back in the pri- 
vate car once more, vanished, not to become visible again until within the 
hospitable gates of the Monumental City. 



BALTIMORE. 



It would be a difficult matter to sum up in positive entirety the part the 
Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Company has played in the building up of 
Baltimore. So closely interwoven are the histories of the municipality 
and the corporation, that to attempt to point out that undertaking wherein 
the one had an important share and the other not would be a task that few 
would willingly undertake. 

In the President's office at Camden Station is probably the most com- 
plete library in existence devoted to railway matters, and no sooner had 
the Fairy run his eye along the shelves than he became impressed with 
the conviction that nothing could bo more interesting to the general 



%\ 




LOCUST POINT— MAli 



20 Pxtrk ill Tii-eiily-sU: 

reader than a sketch of the past as told in the reports of the Baltimore 
and Ohio, — the first passenger railroad in the world. 

The origin of the Company dates back to 182G. At that time Balti- 
more was much exercised over the fact that the public works of Pennsyl- 
vania and the Erie Canal of New York had diverted from the city a large 
portion of the trade which she had essayed to center upon herself. To 
Baltimore this trade was an important element of prosperity and wealth, 
and when the Alleghanies were turned by the long circuit of the lake shore, 
the greater portion of her commerce at that time bid fair to be appropriated 
by Philadelphia and New York. The proposed Chesapeake and Ohio Canal 
had been generally looked to by the citizens of Baltimore as the most 
expeditious avenue to the recovery of the receding vantage-ground. But 
upon, till' ])iil)lieation of the estimate and its proposed cost, and the for- 
midable .lilliiulf i.'s which lay in its way by reason of the scarcity of water 
and the hiuh il(\ ations over which it mu.st necessarily be carried, the con- 
viction became general that the project would never reach other construc- 
tion than upon paper. Then it was that several leading citizens, with a 
determination to seek other means than the impracticable canal, began the 
canvassing of a proposition to build a railroad. The daring enterprise thus 
manifested may be best appreciated when it is remembered that up to this 
time no railroad had been constructed either in Europe or America for 
the conveyance of passengers, produce or merchandise between distant 
points. It is true that experiments had been carried on for a year or two in 
England, but they had been emjiloyed only for local purposes, such as the 
transportation of coal, iron, and other heavy articles from mines or factoriek, 
to navigable waters. For general purposes of travel and trade there were 
many theories as to how roads might be constructed; and so crude was 
public opinion upon the subject that the question had not been .settled as 
to whether stationary steam-engines or horse-power would be preferable 
as a motor. Baltimore at this time was a city of scarcely more than fifty 
thousand inhabitants. While it was then the nearest point, as now, to 
the seaboard from the West, it had many grave difficulties to overcome. 
Its site, while picturesque, was for commercial purposes anything but 
advantageous. Rugged and unpropitious in the contour of the land, it 
presented every obstacle of hill and marsh, requiring wharves for the 
convenience of commerce and necessitating the filling up of estuaries to 
insure health. Water facilities were primitive, and tiie only certainty of 
a lasting future lay in the in'domitable will and unflinching purpose of a 
comparatively small number of citizens. The prospects of a canal cut off 
beyond further question, and Philadelphia and New York exhibiting great 
vigor in reaching out for business, it was do or die with Baltimore right 
there. No one knew anything about railroad building, but in this respect 
Baltimore was as well off as any of her rivals, as they were all in the same 



li. and 0. 



21 



boat. The principle 
upon which railroads 
should be built, and 
tlic cost and effect of 
motive powei, bo 
tame a subjut 
of edi tiest dnrl 
diligent iii\et) 
tig'ation and 



tions were drawn up and a committee ap- 
pointed to apply to the Maryland Legislature 
for incorporation. As the legislators of fifty 
or bixt\ \cais ago had no a])pre( iatioii of 



\} ^\ 



«1< 



« .^ 



notwithstanding tho ihiiat 
ter of the countiy between 
Baltimore and the West wa'. 
such as would ha\e appalled 
anj but Amei leans, \et it 
appealed that the greatei 
the banieis to be o\eicome, 
the more elcternuned weie 
the Baltimoieans to sui 
mount them Eaily in 1821 
(on the tweltth day of Feb 
ruai V, to be exact,) a part\ ot 
the leading meiciidiits of t 
cit}, in numbei not exceed 
ing twenty five, met at the 
residence of one of them, 
and after quite an extended 
talk, and the advancing of 
an\ number of theoiies, ad 
journed to meet again that 
day week. At the second 
meeting a series of resolu- 




ndi\ idual bene 

i nuiin fioin 

suth 

t was 

_i lilted without de- 

I IV, being the first 

I ii'ioad chaitei ob 
t lined in the I nited 
"-t ites An am (dote 

■- 1 elated in eonnec- 

II )ii with th( (liaft 
I X. of tlie document 

uhieli in the light 

■-nut preigiess 

is at le 1st 



a2 Carroll of Carrollton. 

one. The paper having been prepared in tlie text it was read to the com- 
mittee with a view to its adoption. As provision after provision was gone 
over, and the varied and comprehensive powers which had been embraced in 
it were enumerated, one of the most distinguished of the gentlemen present 
arose and in a blunt, off-hand manner exclaimed, " Stop, man! you are 
asking more than the Lord's Prayer! " The reply was that it was all 
necessary, and the more that was asked for the more would be secured. 
The response to this was, "Right, man; go on." And it is needless to 
remark that he did go on, and perfected the charter that for more than 
half a century has stood the model instrument of its kind. That a great 
deal was asked for and secured was not only a good thing for the Com- 
pany, but it was the best investment of chartered rights ever made by the 
legislature of the State of Maryland. 

The first annual report bears the date October 1, 1827; and as the road 
at this period had reached no other form than was expressed upon paper, 
and the promises of the gentlemen constituting the Company, there was 
not much for the President to say. It was simply a general summary of 
the situation at the outset of the undertaking. The directors were on 
the lookout for an engineer upon whose knowledge and skill they might 
safely rely, but, as there were no engineers of any experience whatever in 
railroad construction, the right man was well enough to talk about but 
exceedingly troublesome to obtain. 

Immediately following the annual meeting preparations were inaugu- 
rated on a practicable basis to insure the actual commencement of the 
work. Several engineers were sent out to run lines in different directions, 
with instructions to report, as far as lay in their power, the feasibility of 
construction; and all through the winter and spring the work was carried 
on; and early in the summer of 1828 the formal announcement was made 
that the corner-stone of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad would be laid 
on the Fourth of July. By this time the city had become quite excited 
over the prospect of having a railroad, and hence it was determined to 
signalize the grand primary event by a celebration which would be in 
keeping with its importance. There was at that time but one surviving 
signer to the Declaration of Independence, Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, 
and he was fittingly selected as the man by whose hand the work was to 
be begun. The population of the city in 1828 was about seventy thou- 
sand, and judging from the reports of the celebration, the entire town 
for the time being put aside' everything else and paid homage to the 
birth of railroads in the United States. 

It was doubtless an immense thing to have a horse-railroad promised 
from the Atlantic to the "river Ohio"; and although the majority of 
people did not anticipate its completion beyond the distance of thirteen 
miles to Ellicott's City, still it was something that Baltimore had never 



Picturesque B. and 0. 



23 



^ 



M 'S i 




^ I \i)i ( 1 M 



possessed before, and which no other city in the United States liad fairly 
contemplated. 

The next annual report is dated October 1, 1828, and tells of the 
preliminary examination which had resulted in the conviction of the 
practicability of the railroad from Baltimore to the Ohio River, and 
announced the appointment of a corps of civil engineers and a Super- 
intendent of Construction; and the further statement was made that 
contracts had been let for the grading and masonry for a distance not 
exceeding twelve miles. As an instance of the honesty of the contractors 
of those days, mention was made that no personal security had been 
considered necessarj' to insure compliance with contracts. While things 
were apparently moving satisfactorily it was yet a fact that there were 
many hitches, and that almost every stockholder had a pet notion for 
building railroads. This was not strange, taking into consideration that 
there was not one among them who had had any experience in rail- 
way construction, and quite probably not one of them had ever seen a 



24 The First Passenger Car. 

railroad. The engineers who had from time to time been employed were 
in fact theorists, and could not agree among themselves as to what was 
best to do or not to do. The different engineers had their friends among 
the stockholders and among citizens, and cliques arose in different sec- 
tions who proposed the adoption of measures calculated to promote the 
interests of certain districts and persons. The fact that such a thing 
as a railroad was going to be built led everybody to want it, and then, as 
now, there were doubtless lobbying and wire-pulling to bring about the 
fulfillment of individual preferences. The stockholders grew discontent- 
ed and divided up, some recommending one course and others arguing 
another. Outside persons, for their own aggrandizement, endeavored to 
oust certain directors to put their own friends in; and not a few of the 
citizens, who in the enthusiasm of the moment had subscribed for stock 
and afterward felt alarmed, fearing they had embarked in a bad specula- 
tion, began to press their shares upon the market for sale. It was 
certainly enough of a job to undertake to build a railroad without any 
experience, and to add to this the irksome task of attempting to settle 
quarrels was enough to have effectually damned the enterprise ; but the 
men engaged in it were not of that sort of stuff, and despite all obstacles 
held to their original plans like heroes. On the first of the following 
March proposals were opened for the laying of rails from Baltimore to 
Ellicott's Mills, a distance of thirteen miles. Two plans for laying rails 
had been in contemplation, the one with wood sleepers and string-pieces 
parallel with the iron rails, the other a stone sill or string-piece on which 
the iron rail should be laid. The wood sleepers were adopted, but 
subsequently a large portion of the line was built with stone sills. 

The third annual report, dated October 1829, stated that the first 
division of the road was in course of construction, and nearly all of the 
second division, extending to the forks of the Patapsco, was under con- 
tract. Further than this no move could be made, owing to the ques- 
tions at issue in a lawsuit which was pending between the Railroad and 
the Canal Company. Meanwhile the work on the first division was 
pushed forward as rapidly as the facilities of the times would permit, 
and on the 13th of the following May a car was passed over the entire 
line from Baltimore to Ellicott's Mills. On the 22d of that month the 
road was open for travel. The first improved passenger car adopted 
by the Company, and the first known in the United States, was of a 
decidedly primitive character, being but little more than a clapboard 
shanty on wheels. Its length was about twelve feet, and in addition 
to the boards for seats there was a deal table in the center, upon which 
passengers deposited their packages, and at meal-time discussed their 
edibles. There were three windows on either side, the driver sitting up 
on an elevated seat in front and the conductor standing upon the steps 



Picturesque B. and 0. 



25 



in the rear. Only one horse was attached, and he could be counted 
upon to make seven or eight miles an hour. The advantage of the rail- 
road over the ordinary stage-coach was the comparative smooth riding 
upon the rails, and besides that the car gave one a chance to stretch 
his legs and stand up if he so desired. The speed was also somewhat 
in excess of that upon the stage-lines, and all in all it was considered 
such a grand success that the Company had more 'business than it could 
take care of, the curious people flocking to the road to test its practical 
features by personal experience. And to think that this was barely 
more than fifty years ago, and this little one-horse road the only rail- 
way in all this great country 1 It 
\^ ci))p(.ais almost nnpossible to < om- 




a the ad\ 



, s niaii II 



-^-flfe 



/ . 









i 




the past half -century; and it is only in stopping a 

moment, as it were, these busy times, and glancing 

back, that one can realize what it is to live now compared with what it 

must have been in those days. 

The fourth annual report, October 1830, conveyed the gratifying in- 
formation that all difficulties had been subdued, and that the Company 
as well as the community were in enjoyment of the useful results 
which had followed the completion of the first division of the road. 
Mark here the ruling spirit of the management of the B. and O., which 
has made itself manifest year after year through all the varied periods 
of its existence. Notwithstanding that it was not only a brand new 
road and a brand new company, but the only road of its kind in the 
country, in the very first year of its operation it commenced paying 
dividends, the President announcing a semi-annual payment on the 
first day of January. Accompanying the report of the President were 
the reports of the various officers. The Superintendent of the road 
was evidently a strong temperance man. It is further manifest that 



26 Tangle-foot Irials. 

the evils growing out of tlie use of ardent spirits commenced with the 
construction of the first railroad, and injected into the report is this little 
homily: The destructive and demoralizing effects of the use of ardent 
spirits became so manifest in producing riot and other flagrant disorders, 
it was determined, with the sanction of the President of the Company, 
to prohibit the use of it in all future contracts, and accordingly all 
agreements entered into had a clause to that effect inserted. As the 
Superintendent remembers more vividly the disadvantages he had la- 
bored under he continues: It is believed that the work may be executed 
without the use of this dreadful poison more advantageouslj' to the 
interest of the Company, and certainly much more agreeably to its offi- 
cers and contractors, as well as more beneficially to the laborers them- 
selves. It would indeed be a melancholy reflection that a public work 
could not be carried on in a christian country without the aid of a 
maddening drink so destructive to human life and morals as to have been 
utterly proscribed in Mahommedan lands. In another part of the report 
the Superintendent mentions the fact of his being compelled to visit 
Ohio in January 1829, and that the journey occupied three weeks' time. 

The inexperience of the contractors and the want of a correct knowl- 
edge had the effect of placing them in a position threatening bankruptcy, 
all of them having underestimated the cost of the work. The Superin- 
tendent quite sensibly advocated an allowance which would enable the 
contractors to continue their work, stating that if this was not done it 
would give railroad construction a shock from which it would not recover 
for a long time. His recommendations in this respect were adopted and 
the good work went merrily on. 

At this stage of progress the Company decided that three-feet wheels 
were not as desirable as those of four-feet diameter, the former being 
harder on the animals than the larger wheels. It would appear that the 
horses in use upon the road were all fine stock, otherwise the gratify- 
ing announcement could not have been made that a speed of ten miles 
per hour had been reached. With this time and with proper relays 
the engineer remarked that this rate of travel might be continued over 
any length of railroad, the ascents and descents of which should not 
exceed thirty feet to the mile. The load for a horse on the railway was 
given as one car carrying twenty-five passengers. With a relay every 
six or seven miles this would reduce the space between the tide of the 
Chesapeake and the steamboat navigation of the Ohio to forty-five hours' 
travel. All this time no one had dreamed of the use of steam, — animals 
were to do the work; and even after the line was completed to Frederitik, 
relays of horses brought the cars from Frederick to Baltimore. At dif- 
ferent points along the line relays were provided, and the station now 
known as the Relay House, at the junction of the Main Stem and Wash- 



Picturesque B. and O. 



ing'ton Branch, received its name from the 
fact that It was formerly a point for the 
chaniring of horses. 

About this period steam made its ap- 
pearance on the Liverpool and Manches- 
tcr Hdilroad, and attracted attention 
in this country; but there was a diffi- 
i ulty in running- an engine on an 
American road. The English 
road was laid nearly straight, 
the American road was e.xceed- 
ingly crooked. For a season 




it was believed that this 
feature of the first American 
railroad would prevent the use of 
locomotive engines, but their practicability 
was soon demonstrated by a New Yorker, 
who was none other than the distinguished 
Peter Cooper. He was satisfied that steam- 
engines, if they could be used at all, could 
be applied to curved roads, and he visited Baltimore to 
test his faith. He came with an odd-looking contrivance 
which he called a steam-engine, but which a boy of the 
present generation would hardly consider worthy of the 
name of a mechanical toy. The boiler was not as large 



28 II„w the Ilors,' Jleadeil Hi,,,. 

as that of a range in the kitchen uf a modern iiouse. It was about the 
same diameter, but not more tiian half as high, and had a smoke-stack 
which looked like an aggravated oil-can. This was the first locomotive 
for railroad purposes ever built in America, and drew the first passenger 
car ever propelled by steam upon any railroad in the world. Again the 
thought comes over one that this is a romance, — a sort of James' intro- 
duction, with a solitary locomotive instead of the solitary horseman, that 
might have been seen coming over a hill. 

The car to which this nondescript steam-locomotive was attached re- 
sembled an ordinary row-boat, the four wheels so placed under the center 
that a little too much weight at either end would transform it into a teeter. 
This vehicle was filled with the directors and officers of the road and their 
friends. With palpitating hearts they looked over to where Peter Cooper 
stood, and, no doubt, as he pulled the throttle-valve, wished themselves 
anywhere but just there. The trip was a memorable one, and sufficiently 
exciting to carry out the anticipations of the most venturesome in the 
party. When the speed of fifteen miles per hour had been reached it was 
deemed the very acme of lightning time, but when it was increased to 
eighteen miles per hour, then the millennium had come, sure enough. The 
ride was not without its incidents, one of which was a race with a horse 
which happened to appear near *^he track. Just as it was nip and tuck 
between steam and animal power the band slipped off the fly-wheel: the 
horse took the lead and won the race. Mr. Cooper, who was acting as engi- 
neer, in attempting to right matters severely lacerated one of his hands; 
and this is probably the first railroad casualty to be recorded in history. 
The return trip of thirteen miles was made in fifty-seven minutes, and the 
date August 28 of the year 1830 was never afterward forgotten by the 
participants in the excursion. While this successful experiment with 
steam did not immediately lead to the introduction of locomotives on the 
road, it started the best minds in the country' to studying the question, 
and the result need no more be told than that it is light when the sun 
rises. 

The fiftii annual report, October ISlii, opens with congratulations to 
the stockholders upon the increased success that had attended the opera- 
tions of the Company, and promised that the road from Baltimore to the 
Potomac River, a distance of sixty-seven and a half miles, as well as the 
road to Frederick, would be open for travel during the year. The Presi- 
dent referred to the construction of a railway between New York and 
Philadelphia which should connect with steamboat travel between Balti- 
more and Philadelphia, and found much gratification in predicting that 
when this combination of rail and river travel had been perfected an 
easy and rapid communiiatiim would be established between the three 
commercial emporiums. This led him to propose a line of railwaj' between 



B. and O. 




Baltimore and Washington, and he in 
ing of an order for the survey. So 
power upon the road progressed, that 
best-constructed engine; and the Pres 
mitted which upon trial appeared to 
He was satisfied steam-power could 
economy of cost which would _fully 
tions. The Chief Engineer of the 
springs, as he put it, interposed 
between the load and the runnii 
geai, had befn found to be \c 



formed the stockholders of the issu- 
far had the introduction of steam- 
premiums had been offered for the 
iident stated that one had been sub- 
be adapted for use upon the road, 
be employed at a rate of speed and 
realize the most sanguine expecta- 
Company stated that the use of 




30 \V,t.s/uii;/t<jH\^ In}t;<il WhUtk. 

advantageous, and he would recommend their use henceforth. He added 
that their cost was considerable, but passengers much approved of them. 
Following this matter up, his ne.xt recommendation was that e.xperiments 
should be made to prove whether both ends of the axle on the car 
should be allowed to vibrate, or only one of them. The engine spoken of 
by the President was built in York, Pa., and after undergoing certain 
modifications was found to be capable of a speed of fifteen miles per hour 
on a level. It was mounted on wheels made for ordinary cars, thirty 
inches in diameter, and velocity was attained by means of gearing with a 
spur-wheel and pinion upon one of the axles. It weighed only three and 
a half tons, and was found too light for practical use. 

At this period the entire length of stone track laid upon the road 
was thirty-one miles, and of wood eighteen and a half miles, making a 
total of forty-nine and a half miles, embracing, it was stated, an extent 
of railway greater than had been constructed on any one continuous line, 
either in this country or in Europe. It was during 1831 that the first 
railroad strike occurred, and, like all initial events, has a certain interest. 
It grew out of the failure of a contractor to pay his men. They struck, 
and the work upon the road was delayed for a few weeks. During the 
pendency of the trouble, the men, armed with their tools, destroyed sills 
and culverts; and the sheriff with his posse proving unavailing, the militia 
were ordered out. They captured fifty or more of the rioters and put 
a quick end to the strike. In the month of September steel springs 
were placed upon the locomotive York as an experiment, and were the 
first so introduced. Shortly afterward an experiment was made as to 
the average expense of operating locomotive-power as compared with 
horse-power. The first was found to be sixteen dollars, and the same 
work done by horse-power was thirty-three dollars. On the 9th of 
March, 1833, the final act of Assembly under which the road to Wash- 
ington was constructed was passed, and on December 1, 1834, the road 
was opened to Harper's Ferry, eighty-one miles from Baltimore. Up 
to July 1, 1834, there were but three locomotives on the road. English 
capitalists had offered to furnish them, but the board of directors per- 
sistently refused to adopt the English locomotive, and all of those used 
by the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad from its inception to the present have 
been purely the work of American brains and industry. The Washington 
Branch from Baltimore to Bladensburg was opened on the 20th of July, 
1835, and on the 25th of the following August the locomotive whistle was 
heard for the first time in the capital of tlie nation. On the 5th of No- 
vember, 1842, the road was completed to Cumberland. On the 1st of 
January, 1853, the President of the road stood, with his guests of the 
city of Baltimore and the States of Maryland and ^'irginia, on the banks 
of the Ohio [liver at Wheeling, having been carried thither on the first 



Picturesque B. and O. 




through train from 
the Atlantic to the 
Ohio. The construction of the 
road from Grafton to the Ohio River at 
Parkersburg was commenced late in Decem- 
ber of 1853, and was formally opened, as the potomac at wevehton. 
Parkersburg Branch, on the 1st of May 1857. 

The through line to Cincinnati and St. Louis was completed about 
the same time, and on the 3d and -Ith of June, 1857, the great railroad 
celebration was held in Cincinnati, the President of the United States, 
James Buchanan, being aboard the first train that ever ran through from 
Baltimore to Cincinnati. This excursion was followed the ne.\t month by 
a return e.xcursion from St. Lotiis and Cincinnati to Baltimore, and the 
reception in the Monumental City was remarkable for its demonstrations. 

In 1858 John W. Garrett was chosen President of the Baltimore and 
Ohio, and each succeeding year since has been unanimously reelected. Mr. 
Garrett's first annual report was of date October 1, 1859, and its direct 
and ringing declarations bespeak the true character of the man. His 
opening paper bore practical testimony of the fundamental principles of 
his life : the absence of debt, the power to meet all obligations, and the 
determination to have well in hand a fund to be depended upon in an 
emergency. The closing paragraph marked an era in the Company's 



32 Tlie 3Ia.'<trr Mind. 

history which has the quarter of a century since remained the keynote of 
its management. Said he : " The incubus of floating debt removed, and 
" abundant ability to meet conveniently all engagements, including large 
" approjiriations for the increase of the sinking fund, by which provision 
" is made for payment at maturity, a most satisfactory state of finances is 
presented." 

During all the stormy and disastrous years of the war the manage- 
ment proved the master-hand at the helm. Running through the reports 
of that period of calamity and distraction the same indomitable tone is 
manifested, — the unflinching purpose, and the determined will to conquer 
difficulties. The road first, all else after it. No man rendered greater 
service to the country in her darkest hours of peril, and no instrument 
could have been more powerful in rendering this assistance, than an unob- 
structed railway. Bridges were burned only to be replaced the following 
day. Miles of track were torn up and put down again almost before the 
destroying forces were gone from sight. Engines were stolen and new 
ones filled their places as rapidly as wheels could be turned in covering 
the distance. Entire trains were sacrificed to the flames, telegraph wires 
demolished and station-house razed to the ground, and disaster followed 
upon disaster. The main stem of the road penetrated the heart of war 
operations, and increase as might the destruction following in their 
wake, the unshakable man in Baltimore devised counter movements, and 
was a very Napoleon in strategic force and quickness of action. The 
war over, the work of pushing forward the lines of the Company was 
renewed with vigor. 

Having established the route through to what is known as Chicago 
Junction, steps were taken to complete direct connection with Chicago. 
The Chicago Division, two hundred and seventy-one miles, was built 
without contracting a dollar of debt or issuing a bond, all payment for 
material and labor being made in cash. Meanwhile the Connellsville 
Branch of the Pittsburgh Division was completed, and subsequently the 
entire line to Pittsburgh perfected. The Valley Division from Harper's 
Ferry was carried through to Staunton, 
tract to Le.vington. 

The primary impetus given tlic niovr 
and Ohio Company was the convicllon tli 

in comp<'(itiiiTi with I 'cimsvK aiiia ami 
the public works inaugurated by tlie.se 
Baltimore determined to pit a railroad. Any one at all familiar with the 
reports of tin? Canal Commissioners of the States named need not be 
reminded of (he sjiacc yar after year dcvcit.'il to statements of the advan- 
tages BaltiiiH.rc hn.l srcuivd tlirouji'li licr great line of railway. Even to 



oon.str«etion 


put und< 


3r con- 


t to orgauiz, 


• the Bal 


tiniore 


■■""'i't •"^■^'^i 


[res were 


iKM'es- 


Mlvaiitaii-es ^l 


le had ei 


,jny<.l 


^-ork. The 


danger 


lay in 


) States, and 


ag'ainst 


canals 



34 F,n- a Half C-nlm-i/. 

this time the Canal Board of New Voik holds iij) the B. and (). and its 
influence upon the grain trade of th(> West as the great bar to New 
York's securing control of it. No stronger argument is deemed neces- 
sary before a legislative committee than the stereotyped reference to 
the Company and its unparalleled avenues to tide-water. In one way or 
another the Empire City manages to keep herself almost constantly in a 
state of fermentation on account of this road. When her railvpay kings 
do not make the advantages Baltimore possesses in being tvco hundred 
miles nearer the sea the excuse for speculation through depressed stocks, 
committees representing merchants who have nothing else to do are 
passing long-winded resolutions, in almost every paragraph of which the 
Baltimore and Ohio figures prominently. All this, and much more of 
like character which could be employed in argument, if one were requi- 
site, tells most effectually of the realization of the fondest hopes of the 
courageous men who in giving the railroad to Baltimore made her a 
metropolis. The names of Phillip E. Thomas, George Brown, Charles 
Carroll, William Patterson, Robert Oliver, Ale.xander Brown, Isaac Mc- 
Kibbon, William Lorman, George Hoffman, Thomas Ellicott, John B. 
Morris, Talbot Jones, William Stewart and .1. !,. 1). McMahon should 
be engraved deep in the stone of the stateliest iiKinuuicnt that Baltimore 
ever erected for the perpetuation of the memory of great deqds. No 
imposing mass of granite in all the Monumental City stands indicative 
of a progression to be compared with what these men accomplished for 
Baltimore. The first two named were the first president and first treas- 
urer of the Company, the others the directors, the last on the list being the 
author of the first railway charter ever drawn in America. Lewis McLane 
succeeded Mr. Thomas as President, the latter having served ten years. 
After eleven years of service Mr. McLane was succeeded by Thomas 
Swann, who remained at the head of the Company five years. The next 
in succession was William G. Harrison, his incumbency terminating in 
three years, when Chauncey Brooks was chosen. He resigned at the end 
of five years, and John W. Garrett was elected his successor. For twenty- 
four successive years Mr. Garrett has been unanimously reelected. During 
all the fifty-five years of the Company's existence it has had but six Presi- 
dents, and for nearly a quarter of a century but one. Throughout the 
half-century the principles of the management have been the same, and no 
man can place finger u|ii)ri any liiii' in its reiiiarkahle record and say that 
it tells of that which is not solely and absolutely for the welfare of the 
Company. No President has made the road the vehicle of his own indi- 
vidual profit. Never has the good name of the Company, as represented 
in its obligations, been hawked about in gambling-circles and its honor 
tarnished that so discredit inight result in lessening ])ul)lie confidence. 
Through so long a period it wnuM \ni\<- 1 n strange liad Mi>t tiie value of 



JHrtuw 



'■n> 



d o. 



:55 



its bonds and stock fluctuated. Years marked by panics naturally left 
their impress, and the vicissitudes of the war could not have otherwise 
than shaken faith; but so far as lay within the power of man to avert 
these shocks the credit of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad has been sus- 
tained, and the pride of the management has been to uphold the value of 
its securities. The stock has never been speculative, never been forced 
up or down to enable one man to use the Company for his own selfish ends. 
The result stands out in striking contrast to that of other railway compa- 
nies which have been constructed in competition. The financial exhibit of 
the Railroad is an e.xtraordinary one: a surplus of upward of forty-three 
millions of dollars, and fourteen and three-quarters millions of dollars of 
outstanding obligations in the shape of capital stock, representing a value 
of fully one hundred millions of dollars, as it includes the entire main line, 
equipment and possessions. Of the surplus fund upward of two-thirds is 
interest-paying, and the balance rapidly becoming so. Such a showing in 




■M Ml ,iH,} Ml Within Itself. 

its entirety is almost beyoiul (ndiiiaiy cciiii]iieliension, and, compared with 
that made by rival lines with oiilsLiiidinM stock aggregating from fifty to 
ninety millions of dollars, is gravely .sigiiitieant. The stock of the Com- 
pany has never been watered to the extent of a dollar, and the veriest of 
dullards can understand its strength in maintaining the positions taken 
when it is known that it has but to earn dividends upon less than fifteen 
millions of dollars, while its rivals are forced to earn dividends upon from 
fifty to one hundred millions of dollars. The stock of the road has for 
years paid a dividend of icn \hv cent, and as long ago as 1876 two 
hundred and twenty-five dollars per share was offered for the Garrett 
holdings, the par value being one hundred dollars. Recently one of the 
noted railway speculators of the age offered two hundred and fifty dollars 
per share for the Garrett interest. Practically there is no stock upon tjie 
market, as it is held so largely as an investment that there is no desin? 
to part witii it. 

The Fairy, in concluding his delving into the past and his portrayal 
of the present, looked as if the time to come was entirely too much For 
him, and he wisely refrained from venturing predictions. With posses- 
sions already secured in such \asl |>ro)M]itions that its trains run from the 
three leading ports of the Atlaiilic ci.asl to the great rivers and lakes of 
the West, traversing a thousand miles or more without break, and witli a 
steady revenue of a million and a half per month and a reserve fund 
almost unliniited, there can be no circumscribing its enterprise. 

In respect to the management of its own business in all its multi- 
tudinous details, tlie Company is the model corporation of the country. 
Other great lines are content to delegate the control of different branches 
of service to outside companies, thus practically confessing their own 
inability to serve the public to its fullest demands. As a house divided, so 
is a railroad company with too many masters. The B. and O. is under one 
management throughout, owning and operating its own Sleeping, Parlor 
and Dining cars; its own Express, its own Elevators and Warehouses, its 
own Dining Halls, and its own Tclegrapli lines. The one company is 
responsible to the public for every department of business transacted on 
the road, and the one executive head controls all. There are no foreign 
corporations of capital and power to pander to or to consult prior to the 
carrying out of any proposed impi'ovement or innovation upon old methods. 
1 1 is of itself and in itself Ihc pcifcrl ciiibudinient of unrestrained authority 
oM'f all things appertaining lo iIk- roail. It has thwarted every attempt 
made by powerful combinations to establish absolute monopolies of tlie 
sleeping-car, telegraph and express systems of the United States. But for 
tin; B. and O. there would fo-day tie only a single combination controlling 
llie sleeping-car iiiauagemerit of tlie eouiiti-y. 'i'he recent absorption of 
tlu' one company, wliieli lias so huig \»-i-\\ operalecl independently, by the 



PiotHreitqiie li. and O. 




.ears, and always under the imme 

ite direction of the Company. At 

time it was made the nucleus of 

new companies formed to compete against 

e existing organization the agreement fully 

specihed that in case of absorption by tlie old 

uipany no part or parcel of the B. and O. system 



38 L,«-ii^t ]'<.n,t. 

was to be iiu-luded in tiie dicker. Hence it lesidted that tin- nidUient 
the company instituted to alTord eonipetition to the one combination 
yielded to the seductive influences of the grasping monopolj', the B. and 
O. became an independent system. At no time since its conception has 
it been under- the control of otiier com]ianies; ]irovision being made 
in its contract witli lliem simply In. the use nl' the wires, but always 
through operators in the service of ihc ( 'ompaiiy. 'Phis enabled the 
system to be detached at an hour's notice from connection with allies, 
and, with officials and operators experienced in the transaction of com- 
mercial business, to at once enter the field for the favor of the public. 
The recent big deal whcicby all the idimiicrcial telegraph systems of the 
Union passed to the cuntn.l ..r a single individual, and the manifest 
destiny of a similar fate for every .system established upon a speculative 
basis, determined the management in refusing to enter into any more 
alliances, but instead to greatly increa.se its own facilities and itself 
become a direct competitor. This has been accomplished in the face of 
great impediments, and now, with offices in all leading commercial cen- 
ters -of the United States, the B. and O. Telegraph is a rival of no 
ordinary power. Within a year it will have reached an importance never 
attained by the Company last absorbed by the attempted aggregation, 
thus making it difficult for the combination to maintain oppressively high 
rates on such an exorbitant basis as to eiiable it to pay dividends upon 
eighty odd millions of dollars. 

Yellowstone, who certainly eoiubines much of the practical with the 
artistic, expressed a desire to \isit Locust Point, and the balance of 
the quartet being of similar minds, the management kindly placed a 
tug-boat at the disposal of the party, and there was a ride down the 
harbor, which proved instructive as well as entertaining. Baltimore is 
peculiarly accessible to navigation, the harbor reaching into the busiest 
centers of the city's commerce, and the water of such depth as to per- 
mit ocean steamers to almo.st run their bows into town. The famous 
" Bay Line " steamers land within a few moments' walk of the leading 
hotels, as al.so do those of the "^'ork River line, and it is only a trifle 
farllicr ti. the piers ..f the Boston and \e\v York steamship.s. Locust 
Point, whi.-'h is th,. marine terminus nf the Baltimore and Ohio, is 
directly within the main harbor, and is I'eadily reached by .street-car lines. 
The (piartet went by the tug because the distance is somewhat shorter 
by water, and a capital opportunity would thus be afforded to note Balti- 
more's importance as a seaport. The sail was like a walk down Broad- 
way: to keep with the crowd moving one way was all right, but any 
attempt to skip about meant slow progress and possible collision. No 
more busy place could be imagined, and to tell of all the craft plying the 
water, of the large steamships lying at wharves, and of incoming and out- 



Pictnresijue li. and (). 



39 




4oing steamboats, would 
1 equire many pages of de- 
tails Ben, whose early 
fe Baltimore was quite 
familiar with, knew every 
toot of the way down the 
harbor. He pointed out 
Federal Hill, and at once 
found himself in a lively 
dispute with Apple Jack 
as to whether Ben Butler marched his men uj) or down the hill, or in fact 
whether Ben had ever seen the place or not. Farther on Fort McHenry 
came in siolit, and involuntarily thoughts of Key and the inspiration 
which jirompted him to write the "Star Spangled Banner" came crowd- 
ing in and the present was momentarily forgotten. Yellowstone, dreamy 
and poetic under the influences of memory, e.xpressed in his face the soul 
given over to the consecrated past. Ben, practical and gossipy, rattled 
on with his historic reminiscences, paying little attention to Apple Jack's 
repeated corrections, and every now and then growing earnest in impress- 
ing upon the Fairy the importance of getting everything down in his notes. 
The water-view of Locust Point is an imposing one, the frontage of 
the Coaipany's property extending fully a thousand feet, and covered 
with structures of vast dimensions. To the right are the piers adapted 
to emigrant traffic, which are fitted up with all the requisite facilities 



40 The Way Thet/ Arc Cared For. 

for receiving, accommodating and traiisCerring- Trom steanisliip to train. 
These piers belong to tlie Company, are under its actual (-ontrol, and 
are preserved entirely free from outside intrusion. No boarding-house 
strikers, money-exchanging sharpers, or any of sucii ilk, are permitted 
within the inclosures, and the emigrants when landed have an abundance 
of room, and there is nothing to interfere with their disposition of women 
and children or claiming of baggage as it is brought ashore. Different 
from the manner of landing elsewhere on the coast, the steamers sail 
(lirtctly to the wharf; and as the trains to carry the emigrants west are 
backed in upon the jiier, tliey almost literally step from the vessel on to 
tlie cars. At other jioints transfers are necessitated from the steamers 
to lighters, and it not infrequently happens that families are thus sepa- 
rated; and as the baggage is placed upon other lighters, reaching the 
receiving point in great bulk, endless worry and apprehension are thereby 
entailed. The foreigner in a strange land, where his language is spoken 
by only a few, and wliere everything is so new, if not indeed start- 
ling; is, at tlie best, to be commiserated. He feels an indescribable 
loneliness: the memories of his native land tug at his heart-strings, and 
he is in constant fear of losing wife, children or baggage. At ports 
where several ships are discharging at once, and where it is impossible 
to prevent these strangers from becoming almost helplessly confused, the 
strain upon them in hunting for their relatives and friends among thou- 
sands of others in the same condition must be exceedingly severe. Then 
again the transfer from the receiving station to railroad depots across 
cities, or by open lighters up a crowded river, is another source of great 
anxiety; and by the time the emigrant is fairly aboard the cars bound 
for the West his mental faculties can hardly be of the clearest. In this 
half-dazed condition he becomes a ready victim to sharpers and swindlers, 
and is indeed fortunate if he arrives at iiis destination with sullicient 
money to purchase a meal of victuals. At Baltimore then- can lie no 
such deplorable results, for not only are the emigrants, as hitlierto stated, 
landed directly from the ship upon the wharf, but are ticketed on the 
spot, placed on board the trains, and the ('oinpany's interpreters sent 
with them tothi- tiTniiims of the road. All baggage is claimed and 
re-oheckfil as il Is unld.'idcil fruni the ship, foreign money is exchanged 
by an ollicial witlioul charge, and everything in the eating line is fur- 
nished at a moderate price. Matters are under the personal supervision 
of the General Foreign Agent of the Company, who delivers all moneys 
and letters sent under his larc In expectant arrivals, cashes orders pre- 
sented, and furnishes :iiiy and every itiformation desired. Speaking 
foreign languages (hicnlly, and liaving at his command the services of 
an experienced corps of int<'r|irclrrs, the emigrant, upon landing at 
Locust Point, is among those with wlioni he ean converse and feel at 



Picturesque S. and O. 





f- 






Byrne's isl 




lome 


. M, 




han 


this, 



■-IILN \M)0\ 



readies 
country 

point two hun- 
dred miles iieaiei 
lie West, and consi 
ver railroad fare. He not 
only enjoys the opportunity of (lossiim 
the sea with his immediate friends, but accompanies rhem, together with 
his new friends made on shipboard, on the same train to his destination. 
But one ship at a time is allowed to anchor at the receiving piers, and, 
as a rule, the emigrants leave for the West within si.x hours after their 
arrival, — matters being so systematized that clock-work celerity is 
assured. The number arriving at Locust Point has become very large, 
a week's receipts frequently running up to three, four and five thousand. 
They are for a large part Germans, Swedes and Scandinavians, and there 
are very fevi' among them that have not sufficient funds to meet all pres- 
ent emergencies. There are two lines of steamships running regularly 
from foreign ports to Baltimore, — the Xorth-Gernian Lloyds and the 
Allan Line. The first-named company is a weekly line, but often during 
the busy season has two, tiiree, and sometimes four, ships a week coming 



4'^ Fh-Kt in Effty Entcrprife. 

ill. The entire line is .ornposed of large and reniarl<iibly Kne constructed 
iron steamers, and no iimrr convincing- testimony to tlieir seaworthiness 
can be adduced tlian tlie fact that never since tlie line was opened has 
there been the loss of a vessel, or in fact any accident at all to speak of. 
It is a very popular line for Germans, the ships, as hitherto s'tated, being 
very commodious, and the character of the management such as to insure 
the kindest and best treatment, and the cleanest and mo.st satisfactory 
accommodations. The Allan is a bimonthly line, l)Ut it too has ships 
arriving more frequently in the busiest seasons. 

. To the left of the emigrant-piers is the spacious .slip in which the 
transfer steamer "t'antnn" ninkes her landing. This is the largest 
vessel of the kind ever built, and transfers the heaviest trains without 
crowding, having three tracks her entire length. Old patrons of the 
Baltimore & Ohio and of the New York & Washington through line will 
remember the transfer through the streets of Baltimore, — the cars drawn 
by horses and the pace necessarily slow. All this sort of thing was done 
away with some time ago, as the Baltimore and Ohio trains between New 
York and Washington and the West are now transferred entire by the 
" Canton." It is by odds the cjuickest and pleasantest transfer made 
through Baltimore. Ten minutes fully .suffice for the run across the head 
of the bay, and it is not only a delightfully cool but a pleasant trip. A 
splendid view is afforded of the harbor and of the historic Fort McHenry, 
and the passenger is prone to wish that the time consumed were twice as 
long as it is. 

Flanking the slip on either side aic the enormous grain elevators of 
the C()m])anv, and to the left is the third, just constructed, and which is 
the hugest and most complete in the world. It has an actual capacity for 
the storage of one million eight hundred thousand bushels of grain, with a 
working capacity of fourteen hundred thousand bushels. It has twelve 
receiving elevators for unloading cars and twenty shipping elevators with 
power to unload five hundred cars in ten hours, and deliver one hundred 
thousand bushels per hour to vessels. Double all these figures and one has 
a fair conception of the facilities posse.s.sed by the Company in these tln-ee 
elevators, and may judge what it has done to make Baltimore the great 
grain-receiving depot of the country. 

Back of the elevators are tiie Tob.-ieco Warehouse-s,— massive .struct- 
ures of sloiie and liiick. l?y means of ihe.se the Company has enabled 
Baltimore \u wUnw lie]- suprenjaey ms a tobacco market, the loss of 
which for a time was seriously threatened. Kast of the elevators is the 
Baltimore Dry Dock, — one of the most extensive and complete to be found 
in any land. When individual capitalists hesitated in placing this grand 
enterprise upon a footing to insure its com])letion the Baltimore and Ohio 
promptly came to the front and furnished the recjuisitc money, and it 



PiclurcMpu IS. (did O. 







staiiils iiiiotlii'r riKlunng- monument t( 
Company's unswerving fidelity to Balti- 
more. Almost numberless tracks reach 
I'roni Locust Point to the main line, from 
wliicli radiate other tracks leading all over 
the- city. The Fell-street Station is largely 
devoted to the oyster traffic, which yields 
an iniinensf rcNcnuc to th(> Company, and trains are run daily through 
to the West, on cxpnss time, loaded solidly with these bivalves. A 
stranger to the extent of this business would not believe the statistics 
if given. The Central Station is for lieavy freight, and is of inestimable 
con\ enience to the manufacturing interest.s, to which it is the most favor- 
able point for shipment. The new and extensive stock-yards located at 
Claremont, adjacent to the line, is another institution conceived and put 
into execution by the Company; indeed it would be a hard task to say 
just where the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Company ceased and Balti- 
more began. The growth of the city and of the road has been so closely 
interwoven that the liberal and far-seeing policy of the latter in aiding 
every effort looking toward advancement is visible in all directions. 
There is hardly a square where the Company has not some interest. 
On one of the finest corners, at the intersection of two leading streets, 



44 Eniploi/ers an (I Eiiijdoycs. 

the Company lias erected tlie finest structure in the city, and wiiich, when 
complete, will be the model general office building on the continent. The 
ground upon which it stands cost three hundred and twenty-five thousand 
dollars cash. The building will necessitate the expenditure of half a mill- 
ion more, and when furnished there will not be much left of a cool million 
of dollars. Seven stories in height, with the massive walls of brick laid in 
cement, and the staircases and window-frames and joists of iron, it will be 
fireproof not merely in name, but in fact. The woodwork throughout will 
be of hard woods, — mahogany, ash, maple, etc.; the different floors are 
without partition-walls and fitted up in banking-house style. It will be 
ready for occupancy in a few months, and will be a fit home for a road 
with a history every blessed soul in Baltimore is proud of. The Company's 
car and locomotive works are within the city, at what is called Mount 
Clare Station, and covers over eight squares of ground. At Mount Clare 
anything can be made, from a cast-iron stove to a palace car complete in 
every detail. The motive power of the B. and O. has for many years been 
noted the country over, the remarkable force and speed of the locomotives 
for both passenger and freight purposes having led to the name by which 
the road is best known, "The Model Fast Line." All the locomotives 
used upon the road are made complete in the Company's shops, as are also 
till' )i:iss(>iiger-coaches, baggage, box and flat cars, — in short, the entire 
<i|iii|,iii(iit of the line. The amount of capital invested in machinery, 
tools, and the like, is something enormous, and the pay-roll is a pretty 
fortune each week. The Mount Clare shops alone give employment to 
between three and four thousand men, and the entire roll of the Company 
at all its shops and upon the line embraces upward of twenty-eight thou- 
sand names. At the time of the great sesqui-centennial celebration in 
Baltimore, in the fall of 1880, the first division of the memorable parade 
represented the interests of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. In luldition 
to a large number of tableau ears j)ortraying different events of the 
Road's history, there were seven thousand employes in line in a special 
uniform provided for the occasion. The Company engaged no less than 
thirteen bands to enable this army to march with military precision. A 
special feature of the management is the consideration shown employes, 
and as a consequence the verj' best men are secured, who remain in the 
service until old age entitles them to pensions. Thirty, thirty-five and 
forty years are no uncommon terms of continuous .service, and in several 
instances it dates back even beyond this. No course followed by the 
Company has created a better feeling among employcSs, or has been pro- 
ductive of more substantial benefit, than the organization and perfecting 
of the Relief Association. It is j)raftically a life and accident insurance 
company, combined with llic adilitional I'rature of a provision to cover 
sickness. A comparatively small sum of eaih niontli's wages is reserved to 



Pir.UircsquK Ji. und O. 




r01!t Dt I.A\\1 



meet the premiums, 
and the benefits are 
paid as the benefi- 
ciary is entitled to 
them. In case of 
death from accident 
or natural causes, a 
certain sum is paid 
at once to the wife, 
children or lawful 
heirs. It is a most 
excellent association 
in all its details, and a lasting safeguard against destitution and want. 
At the time it was organized the Baltimore and Ohio Company gave 
outright, to base operations upon, a large sum in its stock, which is 
quoted at about two hundred, and upon which a semi-annual dividend of 
five per cent is regularly paid. The association is managed by the officers 
and employes of the road, and bears upon its records the names of nearly 
twenty-four thousand member.s. The system has proved so successful 
that other large railway corporations are adopting its general plan of 
organization and management. 

The quartet remained in Baltimore longer than had been originally 
intended, but there was so much of deep interest in cormection with the 
Company that it appeared as if the inspection of one feature was hardly* 
completed before another and even more interesting one claimed atten- 

_^____ ^_ ^ _ *'°"- *^^''" 




tainly there 
is no other 
railroad or- 
ganization 



LL^ *1 liOl k 



history thus 
replete with 
events of an 



ter, or that 
the young 
or old may 
study with 
greater ad- 
vantage or 
instriiction. 



EN ROUTE. 



Car No. 217 was attached to a .special engine, and .stood in Camden 
Station awaiting the pleasure of the quartet. Camden iStation means 
(Jamden-street Depot, Baltimore, — the fashion in the .Monumental City 
being to term passenger-depots stations, prefi.xing the name of the street 
they are located upon. Strangers quite naturally make the mistake of 
supposing that station means some point out of the city, and become more 
or le.'is confused as to e.xact whereabouts. Those who visit Baltimore 
need never go astray if they remember tiiat Camden Station is upon 
Camden street, which is not difficult to find, as it is one of the best-known 
thoroughfares in the city. The station is a large edifice fronting an en- 
tire square, and when built was considered one of the grand things of the 
city. For that matter, it is still beyond all compari.son the largest and 
busiest railroad center in Baltimore, upward of sixty passenger trains 
arriving and departing daily. At present the upper floors, and consider- 
able space upon the ground floor, are occupied for general office use. 

Thequailft Koanli'i the car, tiif signal was given, and Baltimore for 
the time Ih'iml! Iii'|(.iii:i'.l to tlic |jast. With the party anticipations ran 
high, the raiiic >>( ilii' 15. and < ), aN the picturi'sque line of America having 
led tci an almost boyish eagerness to taste of tlie proniise<l pleasures. 
<)i\,-r l>i-yond tiie city's limit, the luAAv iron horse let out on his stride and 
the triple tracks upon the left appeared like endless streamers of silver 
ribbon. To Relay, the junction of the old line or main .stem with the 
Washington Branch, there are four tracks, and certainly the rail rq)oti 
which the special made the run was not suffered to grow cold. Thr nine 
miles were covered in almost as many tninutes, and so perfectly u.is the 
air-brake handled that the stop in front of the station was as easy as 
driving up in a buggy. I.'clav Mouse is a charming spot, and well 
deserves the popularity it h.is .ittaiiii-d among Baltimoreans as a place of 
rcsoil dining the sniiiiiicr. The main building, which is a passenger 
station and hotel in one, is of cut lilue-stone, and its architectural effect 
is striking, — the towers, porclus anil gables presenting the embodiment of 
proportion and grace in a manner rarely found in structures of the kind. 
The interior is in keeping, being of hardwood finish, with spacious dining- 
rooms, parlor and private apartments, all furnished in modern style. The 
larger portion of the hotel looks out upon one of the loveliest views 
imaginable, and one could sit for hours and feast upon its varied fascina- 
tions. ImmiMlialely in front west is a garden of no ordinary extent, and 
lille.l in wondn.uslv beautiful profusion with the cfioic^st tlow.u-s and 



Picturesque B. and 0. 




foliage plants; the rich evorgreeii of the one and the exquisite contrast of 
colors in the other blending in a manner at once delightful and enanioring. 
Graveled walks wind gracefully hither and thither and fountains of play- 
ful waters tinkle a sweet lullaby to further captivate the senses ; while 
gleaming among the evergreens arises the stately monument which bears 
upon its marble face the legend of the Viaduct. 

Beyond the garden wires is the massive viaduct itself, all of granite 
to the very keystones of the mighty arches which spari the waters of 
the Patapsco. The eye, roaming on, falls upon a little leaf-embowered 
hamlet, Elk Ridge Landing, the whilom rival of Baltimore as a seaport. 
Farther on the glistening-white cozy homes tell of the sweetness of the 
atmosphere that surrounds them, while clusters of habitations interspersed 
with tapering spires pointing heavenward bespeak a reliance in even a 
more beautiful land. Passing to another window, in order to obtain a 
view of the scene to the south, its alluring aspect is not changed, for 
directly in front lies a grove with broad drive-ways and enticing nooks, 
seductively suggestive of a ramble down to the river-side. In the rear 
of the hotel towers a high bluff, which forms a most pioturesqu(' back- 
ground to a scene thus imperfectly sketched. 

Old-time travelers will recall the Relay House as the point where 
change of cars had to be made for Washington, the line thence to tlie 
National Capital constituting a branch and extending no farther. In those 
days the througli trains of the B. and O. followed the track as originally 
constructed away back in 1830, the primitive strap-iron having given way 
to the T rail. Then there was but one road to Washington, and during 
the war travel from the West came via the Relav House. Now the old 



48 Tht XatloiHil CapUal. 

lino is used chiefly for freight purposes and local business, all the express 
trains passing directly through Washington. The scenic features up the 
valley of the Patapsco, which river the old line follows almost to its 
head, are of a high order, the track penetrating through mountain gorges 
and confining the width of the river to such narrow limits as to trans- 
form it into a series of sparkling cataracts. Ellicott's Mills, the point 
to which the road was first constructed, is a romantically situated place, 
and still retains great prominence in the production of flour. 

Although loth to leave so picturesque a center as Relay, the quartet 
boarded tlie car again and started, to make no more stops until Wash- 
ington was reached. Eighteen miles from Baltimore is Annapolis Junc- 
tion, at which point trains destined for the capital of Maryland and the 
United States Naval Academy are switched off the main line and pro- 
ceed to destination. Just across from the depot the Company owns an 
extensive tract of land known as Irving Park, on account of its pre- 
senting so many pleasing features in the way of woodland and lawn. 
This felicitous spot has become a favored resort for picnicing during the 
summer. A few miles farther and Laurel, a winning little village, is 
passed; and on a hill ten miles beyond is the State Agricultural College. 
Thirty-four miles from Baltimore is Bladensburg, rendered historic from 
the fact that just beyond the pretty hamlet is the ford across which the 
British charged in 1814, the raihvay passing directly over the ground 
where the fighting was most severe. Near by is the notorious dueling- 
ground which those conversant with the early history of the country 
need not be told was the spot where many brave men bit the dust. But 
a little farther and the dome of the Capitol is seen rising far above its 
surroundings and at once calling to mind what has, is being, and will be 
done in the future beneath its statuesque apex. 



WASHINGTON. 



TiiK depot may truly be said to lie in the very shadow of the Capitol, 
as it is but a square distant. Street-car lines radiate from here to all 
the many placfis of interest in the National Capital, the passenger having 
but to state whither he would go to be directed to the proper car, and 
a nickel is all the (^xjx'nse necessary to bring him to his destination. To 
the Capitol itscll', thusc wlio do not care to proceed direct to their hotel, 
or perchance havr no intintion of making an extended stay, is within a 



I'icturtxque B. <ind O. 



49 



moment or two's walk, and therefore no necessity for a conveyance. The 
Post Office and Interior Departments are but a short jaunt, while to the 
Government Printing Office, Treasury and War Departments, White 
House, Smithsonian Institute, and other noted places, are not more than 
twenty minutes' to half an hour's ride. There are, however, those who 
prefer to engage a carriage for trips of this kind, and as there is always 
an abundance of vehicles of every description at the depot upon arrival 
of the train, no difficulty can be experienced in being permitted to make 
a choice to suit one's self. Washington, situated as it is somewhat 
remotely from the greater number of populous States, and being the 
seat of national government, the advantage of making the trip to the city 
so as to be able to spend more or less time is one to be well considered. 
There are many who appear to be at a loss to fully comprehend the exact 
line of the B. and O. In some respects this is due to the ingenious and 
persistent advertisements of rival routes, in the interests of which it is 
made to appear that the ""ly way to reach tb" capital is by going east of 
\s previousi\ stated, all express 
Oliio Inie, ( ast bound or west- 
NX ishnuton, and it is the only 
of the (ity to the 
()\tr ])ii\ileges are 
load It would be al- 
most sujx riluous to 
itmaik tiiat passen- 
gei s en route 
to Baltir 
\ew York, 
Philadelphia, 
and New England 
points, so choosing, 
ruav lease the train at 
\\ ishington, remaining 
)leases them, and 
their journey 



the citv and th( n jo 


uineviiio back 


tiains on th( 13alt)i 


11101 e and 


bound, jiiss (liK ( tl\ 


thiou.i, . 


load 111 iiid out 


^^ >^ 


West \s stop 


^^^t^M 


giantfd upon tht 


•Pe=---H^i» j«6S: 


'■ i- iV^ 


^^^£ 




BKOOK ANL) SPKINC — UOCK ENON. 



50 77y.' Ihu,,ij. 

by other trains. There are iiiany who come from the West via the fast 
express, which is now known tlie country over as the Daisy train, who 
arrive at the National Capital at noon, lay over, and take the B. and O. 
night express for Philadelphia, New York or New England points, as 
the case may be. This train is indeed a lively one, for while it leaves 
St. Louis and Cincinnati at the same time as trains upon other lines, it 
reaches Washington half a day in advance of them. To parties desiring 
to stop over for a few hours no other train can approach it for con- 
venience; in fact no other train will bring them to the capital before 
late supper-time. Almost equal advantages are enjoyed by those who 
come from Chicago via the Baltimore and Ohio road, as its evening- 
express arrives an entire night ahead of corresponding trains on rival 
railroads. The fact of the matter is that this line enjoys incomparable 
advantages so far as Washington is concerned, as it is the only one 
passing through the city and tiie only route by which passengers may 
experience the pleasure of a visil vn i.)utc without additional expense 
in the matter of tickets and cxtr:! hours of travel upon the road. By 
all other lines the fare is greater to the East or to the West via Wash- 
ington, and none except the B. and O. sell tickets of this description 
via the National Capital. Another pleasing opportunity is offered those 
who take this road, and that is a trip to Mount Vernon. This can 
readily be accomplished by arriving on the morning train and resuming 
travel by the evening train. The steamer, which by the way is one of 
the largest and most elegantly fitted up of any upon the Potomac, leaves 
every morning from Seventh- street wharf at ten o'clock and arrives at 
Mount Vernon about noon. The tomb, as well as the mansion, is ever 
open to the inspection of visitors, the only .stipulation being that the 
parties shall not be too numerous at one time. An excellent meal is 
provided by the ladies in charge at a very moderate price, and the stay 
of two hours may be rendered one of much enjoyment. The steamer 
reaches the wharf on the return trij) about four o'clock, giving the tourist 
several hours to remain in the city before departure. 



ON THE POTOMAd 



Plu.l.lNii out of Wasliiiiglcin the special glided along slowly for some 
distance in order to give the quartet a comprehensive view of the City 
of Magnificent Distances, as the capital is frequently termed. Cer- 
tainly it well repays the traveler, even should he decide not to stop 



Pirtur,f.-i,,no. n. (W(l <). 




o\ei hen to t ik 
the BaltHiiort i.ul 
Ohio road, as dii 
excellent panoianid 
of the beauties of 
the city (an he ol) 



tained 



the car windows, — a matter vvhii^li \v 



to be duly 



appreciated. Gradually the Capitol dome faded from sight, and as the 
train dashed along — so swiftly, yet so smoothly — the spirits of the quartet 
were augmented, and a sample of what the road could do in the way of 
fast time was enjoyed to the utmost. Soon the track carried the train 
through a heavy growth of timber, out of which the locomotive plunged 
and there burst upon the view the clear, sparkling bosom of the Potomac. 
At once there eaine over the party that quietude indicative of a retrospect, 



52 Frtdtrlck ami lUtrburn. 

and of memories taking such deep possession as to well-nigh shut out all 
r(>inembrances of the present. The first note to break the silence was the 
tuneful whistle of Apple Jack, and as it filled the ear it took the shape of 
carrying the three older members of the quartet back to the days when 
" tenting on the old camp-ground " was nearly, if not quite, the national 
hymn. "All quiet on the Potomac" stood in the mind's eye as vividly as 
it used to years ago, when the anxious ones at the hearthstone unfolded 
the morning paper eager yet fearful to learn the latest from the seat 
of war. The Potomac! How the very word recalls the past, and how 
hallowed its every letter in the memory of, alas! too many who never 
heard more from precious husbands or darling brothers or sons than that 
they fell where the river flowed deepest. But the living beauty of the 
present summoned back from the dead past the thoughts of the behold- 
ers, and the artistic eye of Yellowstone glistened through the tears as his 
ladtivated nature responded to the scene. Nearer and nearer to the banks 
of the noble river drew the train, and each succeeding mile unvailed new 
fascinations. It was the loveliness of valley with only a reminder of 
the grandeur of the mountains in the. shadowy outlines of a far-distant 
peak of the Blue Ridge. Trees royally profuse in foliage leaned lovingly 
over the waters as if wedding them to closer embrace, that the emerald 
of the virgin leaf might kiss the purit}' of translucent ripple. Anon the 
l)anks extended down even to meeting with the waters, while again their 
precipitous height overtowered them, and the oaks and the elms were pic- 
tured more perfectly in the mirror-like surface of the river than artist- 
hand could ever reproduce. Through the arching branches glimpses were 
gained at intervals of cozy homes, of golden-hued valleys, of flocks of 
sheep and herds of kine. Nothing in stronger contrast to the war's dread 
front could be imagined than this succession of pastoral scenes; and one 
could hardly believe that upon this very ground, and within this very 
vision, armies had struggled for the mastery, and the soil of the earth 
Tiow so rich and green in its plenteous verdure had been deeply dyed in 
precious blood. A shrill whistle, a slight and hardly perceptible pressure 
upon the air-brakes and the engine ceases its puffing and stands at rest 
at Washington Junction, — the intersection, it will be remembered, of the 
old line with what is known as the Metropolitan Branch from Washington 
to the present main line of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad. Some ten 
miles east of the Junction, on the old line, is Frederick Junction, the city- 
being at the terminus of a branch three miles long. The older section of 
the city is must |iirtui<sqiii-, \s\\\\ (|uairil humes in which gable roofs pre- 
dominate, :in(l the windows tell of the architecture of fifty years ago. It 
was from one of these windows tiiat Barbara Fritchie looked down upon 
the Confederate army as it marched through the town, and shook the flag 
of the Union in the face of Stonewall Jackson 'himself. There is a wide 



I'irtiireAque li. (i>ul 0. 




difference of opinion as to the cxiic-t basis upon which the poem was con- 
structed, and tliere is hardly a doubt but what the poet indulged in 
considerable license in perfecting his rhythm and rendering exciting his 
incidents. That there was a staunch and cletermined unionist in the 
person of an old-lady resident is a fact lieyond question, as also that 




54 />'y //" Jiirn- Side. 

this good dame, in tlie patriotic impulse of her sentiment, 
herself in unmistakable terms and witli a good deal of vehemence. At 
all events the poem was a stirrini:- one and stands worthy of ever re- 
maining among the loved memciilus df the war, Frederick is one of the 
attractive places which have lent mu h lusti'i' to the good name of Mary- 
land. The modern section evidences not only a liberal, free-handed 
people in the construction of liusine.ss-houses, but the residence streets 
prove the development of the iiighest culture in architecture and sur- 
roundings. There is not a more engaging place at first sight in any 
state, and the entertainment of visitors is ever such as must increase 
rather than diminish the favor born of initial impressions. The city was 
more or less affected bv the armed contentions between the North and 
the South ; still no very great harm was done, the sympathizers on both 
sides having frequent opportunity to testify practically to their convictions 
by affording much material sustenance to their friends. At Frederick 
Junction the ! ittle of Monocacy was fought, — the Union forces under 
connnand of General Lew. Wallace and the Confederates under the lead 
of .lubal Early. This was in 1804, and some ten thousand men were 
engaged on either side. The result was that Wallace was forced to 
retreat sustaining a decided defeat. 

The river at the Junction presented a new phase, indicative of the 
narrower confines that further west restricted its How and caused it to 
break into cataracts, into whirlpools, and into cascades of surpassing 
seemliness. This new portrayal of the ])icturesque lent exquisite contrast 
to the placid breast of the canal which .skirts the banks of the river and 
follows graceful curves between it and the railroad-track. The growth 
of tree, of bush and of ferns on the liMiiks was of such lu.xuriance as to 
paint rare pictures upon the mirulllcil larc of the water; and looking 
beyond, the surging Potomac, now rushing like lightning between mon- 
strous boulders and anon plunging over them with a resistless force, 
formed a background and a centerground wiiich needed only the majestic 
peaks overtopped bj' a radiant sky to make the whole such as to carry 
Yellowstone away with enthusiasm, and lie determined to go no farther 
until he had transferred it to canvas. Tliis resolve on his part was only 
too gladly acquiesced in by Ben, Apple .l.nk. and the Fairy as well. The 
stories told of the black-ba.ss that wcic wailing to be deftly lifted from 
fclieir native (^lenient IkkI in.'hlr I hem eager to try their hand on the 

gamy fish, and il limk \,\\{ a i iimt's consultation to decide tiiat the 

car sliould be taken li.ilf a mile lailher on and side-tracked at Point of 
Rocks. Here lived two uf tiie most noted lisheniien on the Potomac, 
the one tiie agent of t he Coinpany at the station and the otiier the pro- 
prietor of a little .stc.re. wlio nevc-r bothered witii business when there was 
gocd lishing to he had and a llrst-elass p.arty to participate in it. .\pple 



PiHurcitfjuc li. inid <>. 



Jack had brought along a reel and a book of flies which would have 
delighted old Izaak Walton. The Fairy had also taken good care to 
provide himself with the necessaries for such an occupation; and although 
Ben declared he had never participated in the sport, in the next breath he 
insisted upon it that he could get away with the best man in the crowd 
on bass. Yellowstone consented to experiment upon the cuii'ning denizens 
of the shady pools, but with the proviso that he should have time to make 
such sketches as he desired, as he was out for the enjoyment of the 
picturesque, and not particularly for the gratification of his fondness for 
the rod and line; still he allowed that he would not be behind-hand in the 
extent of his string of trophies when night came on. Thus it was that all 
four quietly determined to extract all there was out of a day upon the 
Potomac bass-fishing. No trouble was experienced in securing the coiip- 
eration of ^^^^^^^ the agent and the storekeeper, they them- 
selves ^^^HH^^^^^^^. kmdly arranging for the boats and for 
baits, and pledging that everything 
should be m readiness at daylight 
next morning The fact tliat 
these old angle 
seited that it took 
minnows to tempt 
• -i-m.'.^-JSpmKtMf'-^'^SSSi^^^W^^^^^ bass staited Apple 
#' /wlHHK^^^f^ll^^Hi Tack 




SIIKNANDOAII ALUM. 



or, /J/ar/,-nos.^. 

defense of his claim, to wit, that bass would not look at minnows when a 
blue hackled fly or a coachman lay temjjting-ly upon the surface of the 
water. The agent in a good-natured way explained to Apple Jack that 
he was rather fresh to tell him how black-bass should be taken from the 
river, by the side of which he had been born and raised. This made no 
difference to the young man, and to his credit it should he recorded that 
he so far prevailed upon the at first obdurate tisiiermaii as to promise to 
cast a fly next day and give it a trial. 

For a change the quartet left the car to \;tkf up tlicii- aliode in the inn 
that stood upon the bank of the canal, — a tiiiic-tricd ddniicile with low 
ceilings, long, sloping eaves, moss-covered roof, and other evidences of 
good old age. Tt was out of the usual line of sleeping-places, and there- 
fore the more to be enjoyed. The proprietor, a characteristic country 
" mine host," was grizzly of beard, large of paunch, and slow alike of 
speech and of movement. He did not know about having breakfast 
quite so early as the most enthusiastic of the party wanted, as he had 
had considerable experience with city fishermen and knew their fondness 
for the bed when the gray streaks in the heavens tell of the approaching 
day; nevertheless he good-naturedly promised to have everything in 
readiness at tiie proper hour, and the quartet sought apartments, and 
thereafter the stillness of night was broken only by the outrageous tunes 
Ben practiced on his nasal organ. Boots, shoes, a reel or two, and other 
gentle reminders of the ve.xation of spirit this midnight discord had 
upon the others, seemed not to affect the soulful slumbers of the aggra- 
vating fellow, and next morning he maintained by all that was good and 
bad that he never snored, the disarranged appearance of things about the 
head of his bed and on the floor immediately adjacent thereto to the 
contrary notwithstanding. After more or less persuasion on the part of 
the landlord he succeeded in getting the Four up ne.xt morning, and the 
way the breakfast was demolished was a caution to every hotel-keeper 
to be careful in entertaining strangers at regular rates. The first thing 
in order proved to be a novel ride upon tin- c-ukjI. The boats were 
attached by a long rope to an old gray horse, wliirli liy dint of much 
clubbing managed to keep in a trot and convey the party to a ])oint some 
three miles distant, where the services of the angular quadruped were 
dispensed with, the boats hauled over the canal bank into the river and 
the .sport of the day comnHMncd. Despite the inexperience of some of the 
])arty the result was all tliiit tlir iiuist sanguine had anticipated, — the bass 
numerous and the holes plenty, and the fish as game as ever that were 
so unfortunate as to take hold of a minnow at the barbed end. The only 
mishap of the day was Ben's involuntary and wholly unexpected bath. He 
had \u-i-n l)o!dly rlainiiiiii- for hours that he was goinj;- to strike a genuine 



58 A Strike and the. Result. 

removed his number twelves, s:it (iii the Ikiw, and the waters of the Poto- 
mac laved his feet. In this awkwaicl pcisitimi he did strike a big one, and 
it was worth a day's journey, to an nld hand at landing- a fish, to witness 
the predicament that black-bass put him in. 'Hn- fish, which was evidently 
a six-pounder, pulled very hard, and lien, tiled of holding him with his left 
hand, and reeling with his right, changed hands, got the reel upside down, 
and with his body bent over in the shape of an aggravated U he halloed 
at the very top of his voice for his oarsmen to bring the landing-net. 
The absurdit}^ of this request may !"■ lust appreciated when it is stated 
that he had fully fifty yards of lim- out, and the balance of it so tangled up 
on his reel and around his wrists that to wind was a total impossibility. 
This was the situation when he determined to, as he expressed it, snatch 
the fisli bald-headed. The result was tliat the line parted and Ben lost his 
balance, and in an instant the waters hail elosed over hi§ manlv form. Tlie 
rescue was piomiit, Iml I'xri. instead of being discomfited liy the entirely 
unusual C[uantity of water he had startled his stomach with, expressed his 
unalterable determination not to go ashore and dry off: he would .stay 
there and catch that fish yet, if it took him all summer. Aside from the 
excitement of the fishing, the iloat down the river was one of the greatest 
pleasure; and it woidd be sad indeed to imagine any man with soul so 
dead to nature as not to i)e thrilled by the exquisite scenes opened up 
at every turn of the Potomae. P'rom (in<> immense rock in the center 
of the stream an enchanting view of ilarper's Ferry, seven miles distant, 
was obtained, and Yellowstone could hardly be induced to leave it and 
go on down the river. The day's catch was an excellent one, the fish 
numbering fifty odd, and ranging from five pounds five ounces down to 
half a pound, the average e.xceeding two pounds weight. Point of Rocks 
is a capital place for fishermen to visit, as there are good accommoda- 
tions in the way of inns, boats, oarsmen and bait. The charges for 
services are quite moderate, and as it is so near the largo cities of the 
East one has to spend but a night on the cars to have a day's sport and 
reach home early the second morning. 



HARPER'S FERRY 



Retukninc; to tiie ear, I lie (.nler was given for the start again; ami it 
lazarding nothing to claim that there is not a ten-mile stretch on any 

t whieh extends fnim Point of l.'oeks to Harpers Ferry. The point is .so 



Pk-t 



urisqi 



named from the fact that the load 
way passes through a tunnel at 

the base of a innuufairi i>f ik 




iiK 1. IS It \M re, 
the 
Blue Ridge. 'I'he Valley 
the Potomac narrows 
either side the 
Mse gradually to tlie 
btatehnesb of mountain grand- 
I, the river, hemmed in more 
closely, gaming m velocity of current 
•ontrasting strongly with the peaceful 
of the canal which still follows the 
)f the road. The foliage gains new 
wealth of color, and the occasional open- 
ings that permit the ej'e to roam on for 
miles up the river are like glimpses of 
another world. At Catoctin the granite 
opens up to a considerable width, and for seven miles the road runs 
through a little valley appropriately known as Pleasant. At the west end 
is Weverton Junction, the intersection of the B. and (3. branch running 
to Hagerstown, twenty-four miles distant, crossing Antietam Creek near 
Keedysville, and in full view of the mountain upon which were McClellan's 
headquarters, and from whence he issued the orders for the march on to 
Sharpsburg. The bloody battle-ground of Antietam is but three miles 
from Keedysville, and it is accessible by stage. Hageistown is another 
of the old-time pictures(^ue settlements of Maryland, and for artists one of 
the most interesting places to be found anywhere in the country. Despite 
its years it is an active and energetic business center, peopled by solid 
men, who, whife they may do business a good deal after the fashion set 
them by their fathers, operate upon a sound and reliable basis. Hagers- 
town, althoug-h more or le.ss the center of oi)erations during the war. did 



IDIOTIC 



60 ir/icrr T/nvr States Meet. 

not suffer to any great extent. Lee, retreating from Gettysburg, held 
it for three days, throwing up earthworks, which still remain. On tlie 
night of the third day the Federal forces drew up to such close quarters 
that a retreat was made across tli<> river and the TTnion men gained pos- 
session without opposition. 

From Weverton Junction the three miles to Harper's Ferry was fairly 
through the very heart of mountain fastnesses, precipitous piles of granite 
rising up to a tremendous height and dwarfing the train until it was by com- 
parison but as a puny antagonist flying in the grizzly face of rock-ribbed 
power. The volume of water in the Potomac, increased by the How of the 
Shenandoah just above, becomes a torrent in impetuosity, and so eager to 
find its way to the sea that it froths and fumes to a whiteness absolutely 
indescribable in beauty. The ruins of houses long since passed into 
decay, with tall chimneys attempting in their scrawny dimensions to rival 
the towering masses of rock beside them, add to the general effect, while 
the climbing ivy-vines, the willows, the gnarled weather-beaten pines, all 
help to form pictures which follow in such rapid succession as to almost 
bewilder the eye and cause one to wish that the train might stop so as to 
permit of a single view out of all these witching scenes. On the opposite 
side the grand domes of the Blue Ridge extending into old Virginia loom 
dark and frowning, as if the Shenandoah, in cutting its way through them 
and dividing state from state, had enkindled an anger which ages would 
never efface. Beyond Virginia and into West Virginia, the base of the 
two states, ending in the swift-flowing .stream wliich separates them, starts 
abruptly up Bolivar Heights with Harper's Ferry at their feet. The train, 
still upon the opposite side of the river, winds its sinuous way beneath 
Maryland Heights, which .soar ;ihn(ist into the clouds, the highest point 
fully thirteen hundred feet above the level of the river. To describe the 
meeting of these three mighty ma.sses, forest-crowned and hoary-headed 
with age, the Potomac and the Shenandoah joining in one stormy torrent, 
the long, narrow vista up the Potomac, the glimpses of the Valley of the 
Shenandoah, the symmetrical steel bridge in the foreground, the old-fa.sh- 
ioned houses in Harper's Ferry, the extended walls of the ar.senal which 
has for many years been in ruins, with naught but the chimneys to tell 
of its former importance; Jefferson Hock high upon the heights back of 
the Ferry, and over all the warm Italian sky of September: to behold all 
this with the eye one can dc, lull tc tninsronn t., the cold regular lines of 
type, — impossible. 

Ben had telegi-aphed ahead for a team to meet the quartet at the 
depot, and upon going to it the character of vehicle, drijer and horses 
proved well in ke(;ping with the surroundings. The beasts of burden 
were both aged, but one had h:id tin' adxanlage of unrestricted develop- 
ment in earlv life, while the otluM h;i(l rvidftitly met the trials of exist- 



Pi>-titns,jiie B. and 0. 



61 



ence too soon, and never readied tliat growth which otherwise might 
have been attained. The reinsmaii was an old stage-driver, and, as 
is usual witli such characters, had hardly become acquainted before 
he began to tell of driving Horace Greeley on that memorable ride 
of the philosopher in Colorado. An old, old story told over again, it 
nevertheless served as an introduction to the familiarity which existed 
to the end of the peregrinations in and about the historic spot. Mean- 
while the quadrupeds made, to them, their tedious way up the principal 
street, which is upon an incline of about forty-five degrees. On either 
side homes and places of business of ancient construction are mounted 
almo.st literally one above the other, and it would not be difficult for a 
! down upon the roof of another 



person to iniagii 
and breaking: hi; 



le the falling off 
^ neck. The ride 
usual, became pensive, insist- 
ing upon it that the street 
alone was worthy of a week's 
journey upon the part of any 
artist to take in its full pic- 
turesque effects. Once at 
the top of the thoroughfare, 
the view unfoldeci 



of novelt 



id Veil 



>-stoii 




6-2 Jef,;:'<o„ ,n,.l t/„- /io.k. 

not toil on foot double tho distance to IicIhiIiI. Tlioro was no stopping, 
however, as the good-natured guide (!xplaitiiil that it was mere bagatelle 
to that whicli was coming. Up, and still up, climbed the weary horses, 
and making a sharp turn the wagon came to an abrupt standstill by the 
wall of a graveyard, the stones and monuments so weather-beaten and 
gray with years, tiie grass so tangled and luxuriant in its growth, the 
trees sparse of limb and thickly knotted, and the generall}- unused appear- 
ance, justifying one in the belief that the resting-place of Noah had at 
last been found. There were no gates to this abode of the dead, but 
ther(> were irregular stones so placed as to afford a stairway, as it were, 
111 siinnuunt the inclosure, through which the party passed to that his- 
toric promontory, Jefferson's Rook. Here it was that President Jeffer- 
son stood and dr:ink in :i scene which he eloquently affirmed was worth 
a journey over the AtLiutic. "Standing," he says, "on a very high 
point of land, on the riojit comes tiie Shenandoah, having ranged the 
foot of the moiinliiins m hundrcil miles to seek a vent: on the loft ap- 
proaclies the I'otonjac, in (|ucst of a passage also. In I In- moment of 
their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder 
and pass off to the sea." During all the years which have passed since, 
the rock has been preserved as carefully as though its material were 
most precious. As time nnderniined its base, props were inserted to 
keep it in place, and tin' insciiptirm is still kept intact giving the date 
of Jefferson's visit. Tlie dillcrent momliers of the quartet climbed up 
to the rather difficult standing-jioini , .ind the expressions which escaped 
from one and another as the summit was reached bore strongest testi- 
mony to the unparalleled sublimity of the view. Directly within the 
range of vision were three states: Bolivar Heights, upon which is Jeffer- 
son's Kock, are in West V^irginia; the north and south banks below the 
meeting of the rivers are called Maryland and Loudon Heights; the 
Potomac, is the dividing line between Virginia and West Virginia, 
which is about a mile east of Harper's Ferry and nearly parallel with 
the Shenandoah at that point. Looking directly down a thousand feet 
or more the track of the Valley Division of the H. and O. is seen, and 
the eye may follow it up the Shenandoah until lost among mountains in 
the distance. 'I'lie liver itself is a I.e.-iutifiil streiini. and li.'i-e ;in(l there 
where the close meeting of immense bouidcu's has stopped the current it 
breaks over them in merry, dashing waterfalls. The grandest view of 
all is yet to come, and the quartet, scrambling back into the vehicle, 
drove by a narrow and steep road down into a valley, and, almost imme- 
diately thereafter commenced another climb, which ends upon the highest 
ground on Bolivar Heights. The Fairy, who had grown so disconso- 
late in attempting the description of Harper's Ferry and surroundings 
as seen from the cars, l)ecan)o almost dispirited as he took full view 



Picturesque /,'. and O. 




of the scene from the latest point of observation. It was of no use, lie 
rleclared, to essay details; and "beyond description" was a hackneyed 
term. He had, however, never before comprehended its meaning to the 
fullest, and he was perplexed to know what to say or where to commence. 
Backward was the Valley of the Shenandoah; to the right the Potomac 
below Harper's Ferry, the view showing through Loudon Heights on 
the one hand and Maryland Heights on the other; away down in the 
foreground Harper's Ferry, with John Brown's Fort and the arsenal 
ruins, the tumble-down buildings and the bridge. The eye rising from 




64 Th< Him and the Uraij. 

that roarns so far away as to endeavor in vain to outline every object 
within its range. To the left is the Potomac, again skirted by towering 
mountains, the lines of one merging into those of another, and the whole 
forming into graceful masses, reflected where the current had been 
stopped and where grand mirrors lay like seas of molten silver in tlie 
sunshine. 

Yellowstone commenced sketch after sketch, tearing them to pieces one 
after the other as new inspirations seized upon him; and finally he left the 
balance of the party, sought a place where he could be entirely by him- 
self, and remained there until darkness compelled him to postpone further 
operations until morning. Ben and the Fairy gradually followed back 
along memory's path to the war, and as both had carried muskets, Ben 
with Lee and the Fairy with McClellan, there was much in the scene 
before them to talk about. Old soldiers very rarely fall into disputes, or 
are tempted to let their angry passions rise by reminiscences of the times 
that tried' men's souls. Those who treasure up the bitter things incident 
to the war have a purpose in so doing; and very few indeed of these crea- 
tures ever smelled gunpowder, their fighting consisting chiefly in mouthing 
in safe places at home. Old antagonists, who always appreciate and 
remember the bravery exhibited on both sides, and who ever bear willing 
testimony to the little sweet there was found in those days, meet now upon 
common ground, and discuss as pleasantly and as quietly as if sectional 
strife had never divided them. In all the area ovei' which the war made 
its history there (•.•ni lie fimnd iii> one i-i-iitci- nf inure niciMn-ntnus events 
than Harper's Ferry. Mere it wa.s that the war had il.s liirth, for in that 
primitive burg which Ben and the Fairy looked down upon .John Brown 
fired the first gun. The scheme then inaugurated looking to an insur- 
rection among negro slaves was the keynote. At the time, it is needless 
to state, there was a wide diversity of opinion as to lirown's c-ourse; and 
there were very many who afterward Ihm-jhilc tin- stroni^cst advocates of 
the Government in crushing the ( Vnifccicracy, who (leiiounced him in no 
measured terms. Little did tiny or any one .Isc dream llicii that the 
strife at Harper's Ferry would extend nntli It divided families, friends, 
and the country. Nothing could be gained by discussing pros and cons, 
and history has not become so vague as to necessitate any lengthy i-e- 
counting here. All know well what became of .John Brown and his men. 
The engine-house which scr\c-d liim as a foit.anil whiili still stamls within 
the arsenal grounds, is In plain sight of the train, and he u ho rc\<'rently 
or otherwise looks upon the building may call to niiiul the part which it 
has played in the country's aimals, and remember it as pleases him best. 
Early in the spring of 18fj] Harper's Ferry was occupied by Generals Joe 
Johnson and Stonewall .lackson. The i<\(lera! troops were encamped 
almost immediately opposite at Sandy Hook. Tin e.\|ierience of passen- 



PiHvri'sqnc B. and O. 




gers on board the B. and O. trains during this period was of a character 
not altogether pleasant: stopped on the Maryland side of the river by the 
Union forces, and again on the Virginia side by the Confederate forces, 
a man had to be careful and remember to just which power he had 
last given allegiance. In a 
few weeks the Confederates 
evacuated the Ferry, mov- 
ing to Winchester, the Fed- 
erals taking possession and 
holding it until September 
1862, when General Stone- 
wall Jackson captured it and 
compelled Colonel White, 
the Federal commander, to 
surrender with eleven thou- 
sand men. The Union forces 
were paroled and Jackson 
marched immediately to join 
Lee at Antietam. Harper's 
Ferry is about ten miles from 
Sharpsburg, where the battle 
of Antietam was fought, the 
Confederates speaking of it 
as the battle of Sharpsburg ha\l toi a itomi-biu 




because McClellan's headquarters were on the edge of that town, and the 
Federals calling it the battle of Antietam because it was fought along the 
creek of that name. The great cemetery is at Sharpsburg, and in it may 
still be seen Lee's Rock. Little or no trouble is experienced in reaching 
Sharpsburg or Antietam, either by taking the Washington County branch" 
from Weverton, thence twelve miles to Keedysville and two and a half 
miles by stage, and the stage fare only a quarter each way, or by leaving 
the main line of the B. and O. at Kearneysville. 

The Confederates never occupied Harper's Ferry after the battle of 
Antietam, but it was throughout the war the scene of much uncertainty, 
as it was largely the center of operations on both sides. Where Ben and 
the Fairy stood upon Bolivar Heights nearly all the ground referred to as 
covered by the operations of both armies at Antietam was in full view. 
To the right. South Mountain, where the battle had been fought prior to 
Antietam, and where McClellan pressed Lee so strong that he fell back 
through Boonsboro and Keedysville, seven and a half miles to Antietam, 
fighting all the way. Fully as distinct was South Mountain itself, where 
ex-President Hayes was wounded, and whence he was taken down a few 
miles to a farm-house for treatment and attention. Meantime, and on the 
day of the battle of South Mountain, Stonewall Jackson fought on Bolivar 
Heights, where he captured a large number of Union soldiers, as hereto- 
fore stated. From his elevated position he saw the smoke of Antietam, 
and hurrying his troops down and following the river to Shepherdstown, 
and thence to Antietam, he arrived there and saved Lee from annihilation. 
His corps was placed in position and, being fresh, crowded McClellan back 
two miles or more to the creek and captured every position but the bridge, 
which was held by Burnside, and which was the key to the situation. That 
night Lee crossed the Potomac at Shepherdstown, and was followed by 
McClellan, who unsuccessfully attempted to prevent further retreat. 

From Shepherdstown Lee returned on tlie second morning to Martins- 
burg and Winchester. General Reno, who commanded the advance corps 
at South Mountain, was killed in the fight there, having attacked Lee 
early in the morning and worsted him. After the fight at Antietam a por- 
tion of the army pursued Lee to Winchester, but the main command under 
Burnside proceeded to Weverton, a mile and a half below Harper's Ferry; 
crossed the river there and recrossed it at Berlin, one and a half miles 
farther down, and thence marched to Washington. From the Heights 
also was seen the stretch of country General Lee traversed with his army 
on the march to Gettysburg. At this time Maryland Heights just beside 
was occupied by two thousand Union men under the command of Gen- 
eral French. Lee's army crossed at Shepherdstown, and recrossed on his 
retreat from Gettysburg at Falling Waters, which is plainly discernible. 
Ben and the Fairy stood there for hours going over the might-have- 



Picturesque B. mid O. 



beens, awed meanwhile in the almost immediate presence of the terri- 
tory figuring so prominently in the history of the past. Many a man 
could sit for a day upon Bolivar Heights and tell of the part he had 
played in fixing the destiny of the country; and no insignificant num- 
ber of old soldiers have stopped over at Harper's Ferry, have climbed 
the Heights, and stood there as will their children in the future. No 
place will be more sacred, no point more absorbing in its interest, and 
no spot more cherished. The pilgrimage of the quartet for the day 
ended iti an invigorating ride down the Heights on the west side of the 
railroad-track, which was followed up a short distance to a locality of 
uiueli interest, known as the Rattling Springs. The road thither, after 
reaching the level of the river bank, is through lines of trees wliich 
meet high up and form an archway almost the entire distance. The 
spring is exceedingly picturesque, the water issuing from the base of a 
stalwart ledge of rock a hundred or more feet high, and surmounted by 
tall pines having their roots in the rock itself. All about it is dense 
foliage, and as one places his ear close to the granite the water may be 
distinctly heard percolating through the hidden crevices and finding its 

way out of the narrow aper- 
*^t 1 (^C5ii /• '^ j: '^'"'^ ** *^'^ bottom. The sun 

was just setting as the start 
was made for the car, and on 
the way the effects were so 




WALLAWnATOOLA 



68 Th,' Slunandwih. 

perfect, the lights and shades so rich, the water so clear and sparkling, 
that every inch of the retreating glory of Old Sol was witnessed with 
regret. It was still light enough to make the run over to Byrne's Island, 
owned by the Railroad Company, and which has been beautified in so 
many ways that for excursion and picnic parties no more pleasurable place 
could be imagined. The island is situated just above Harper's Ferry, 
and its romantic little nooks, its natural bowers, its sloping lawns, and 
charming views of water and distant mountains, form pictures over which 
the artistic might linger for hour upon hour. It would be difficult to 
attempt to place, in the order of their attraction, the many centers of 
interest in and about Harper's Ferry; and as the vicinity has been in the 
past, so will it long continue to be in the future — a place where no man 
can visit without pleasure and profit. 



THE VALLEY OF THE VIRGINIA. 



Mari'kk's Ferry is at the western extremity of the grand valley known 
north of the Potomac as the Cumberland, and south as the Valley of the 
Virginia. This latter was the objective point now reached by the quartet; 
hence instructions were given to transfer the car from the main line to 
the Valley Branch of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, which commences 
at the Ferry. 

The special fairly under way, it followed tlie base of Bolivar Heights, 
])assing under the shadow of Jefferson's Rock, and bej'ond out into an 
open space showing the neat village of Bolivar on the Maryland side, 
while upon the Virginia side Loudon Heights were in full view, with 
their base ending abruptly in the waters of the Shenandoah. The river, 
not far distant, breaks into exquisite cataracts, falling in some places from 
fifteen to twenty feet. Ten miles from Harper's Ferry the train cajne 
to a brief halt, at Charleston, one of the liistoric points of the early 
days of the war, and also the spot where John Brown, with his compan- 
ions, was tried and hung. Seventeen miles farther and Stephenson's 
Di'pot, V'a., was reached. At this point passengers leave the railroad 
and take stage for Jordan's White Sulphur Springs, one and a half 
miles distant. As this resort was upon the visiting list of the quartet 
the special was run iqton a side-track and preparations made for a 
trip in the wiiucm which sfixid waiting. It was roomy enough to ac- 
ooinniiHhiti', (|uilc rcmiforlably, fnini fifteen to eigliteen people, and the 



Picturesque B. and 0. 




horses starting off on 
a brisk trot the party 
whirled over to the 
springs in almost tio 
time. The location 
proved to he a very 
pleasant one. The 
surrounding hills were 
covered with a luxu- 
^ ~~' riant vegetation, and 

i.oMi<oKT\i.i\ n\ED the climb to the top 

of almost any one of 

them was compensated by a series of magnificent views. The resort is an 

esteemed one for families. Here many of them regularly spend season 

after season, and enjoy as much as anything else these reunions of summer 

companions. The main spring, known as the White Sulphur, is in the 

center of the grounds, and near by are wells of 

pure, sweet water, free from mineral qualities. To 

indulge in an extended dissertation on the medici 

nal virtues of the water would be but to 

repeat, in a condensed form, the pam 

phlets which are issued, giving not onh 

analyses in full, but much interestino 

matter besides relative to the various 

forms of disease which are most benefited 

by its use. All of the numerous resorts 




BATH AiUM. 



70 Wiiic/iiMer. 

issue these publications, and they can be had for the mere trouble of 
writing for them. As for the proper form of addressing requests of this 
character, it need only be said that letters forwarded to the Springs, — 
say, for instance, to Jordan's White Sulphur Springs, Rock Enon, or any 
of the resorts in the valley, — will be promptly responded to. 

The Fairy, to whom was delegated the journal of the trip, declared 
that to attempt to tell all about the waters and enumerate the diseases 
susceptible of their curative influence, give analyses, and furnish testimo- 
nials, would entail a task which should properly be performed by a physi- 
cian. More than this, the pamphlets themselves almost invariably contain 
certificates of well-known medical men, to whom reference may be made, 
as thpy are authority upon such questions. This brief explanation is 
made in order that those who desire to become fully informed as to the 
value of these waters may be able to do so. The whole country about 
Jordan's White Sulphur Springs lies some five hundred feet above the 
level of Harper's Ferry, and therefore the pure air, together with the 
fragrance of the pines which cover the surrounding hills, is refreshing 
and healthful. As the name implies, tiic water is largely impregnated 
with sulphur and the miiieials usually ac<' panyiug it. 

Returning to the train at Steplieuson's Dejjot, the next stop was at 
Winchester, interesting in picturesque habitations, and most- hospitable 
to strangers. During the war it was the scene of almost continuous 
contests, first one side holding the town and then the other. Early 
in the conflict Stonewall Jackson attacked Banks, giving him a lively 
time, for before it was over he had captured three thousand or more 
men and upward of two million dollars' worth of medical stores, which 
at that juncture were especially valuable to the Confederates. Soon 
afterward the town again fell into the hands of the Federals, but in 
June General Lee's advance corps under Ewell gave battle to General 
Milroy, who commanded the Union forces, and hemmed him in so closely 
that it was only at the end of the second day, and after hard and brill- 
iant fighting, that Milroy succeeded in cutting his way out. After the 
battle of Antietam the Confederate forces fell back to Winchester and 
there wintered. Early in the summer of 1864 General Grant, deeming 
the Valley of the Virginia an important position to control, sent General 
Sheridan with a large force of cavalry to occupy Winchester, — which he 
did, forcing the Confederates to Cedar Creek, some ten miles south of 
the town. Tn one way or anotiier Winchester was in an almost incessant 
.state of tuMiiciil, ami it a]:]iears strange that anything should be left of 
the place. It is imw, ln.wevei-, a thriving business center, and the prin- 
cipal entrepot of the lower valley. From Winchester, which is tiiirty- 
two miles from Harper's Ferry, the tourist takes stage to Rock Enon 
Springs, Va., sixteen miles distant. As it was the intention of the quartet 



Picturesque B. and O. 



GREEN VALLEY. 

to drive from Rock Enon direct over to Capon Springs, and thonce to 
Capon Station, there to take the train again, a short run was made on 
the special from Winchester to Capon Station and return, in order to 
see the line of road between the two points and make a short stop at 
Cedar Creek, the spot that Buchanan Reed made famous by his poem 
" Sheridan's Ride." 

Four miles from Winchester is Kernstown, where, in December 1861, 
a battle was fought between Jackson and Shields, and where the gallant 
hero of Mexican renown whipped the redoubtable Stonewall and forced 
him from his position, — compelled him to retreat up the valley. Shields 
pursuing him. The train moving along slowly over the historic ground 
intervening between Kernstown and Cedar Creek, opportunity was af- 
forded the quartet to view the old earthworks and recall the stirring 
events of 1861 and 1863. The railroad bridge across Cedar Creek stands 
at the point where the fighting was of the hardest character, and old 
soldiers on both sides could doubtless point out the spot where this or 
that charge was made, or where fell commanders and comrades. 

The notable battle was here fought between Federal troops com- 
manded by Sheridan and Confederates under .Tubal Early. The latter 
the night before was encamped several miles down the creek, and in the 
darkness crossed and followed it up on the opposite side, where the 
Federals were quartered. The attack was made at daylight, and was so 



72 Sh,ri<h,„'x Ride. 

unexpected that a stampede was created and fully a thousand prisoners, 
in addition to an immense amount of camp equipage, taken. General 
Emory was temporarily in command, Sheridan having remained at Win- 
chester. The rout of the Union men was complete, and the Confederates, 
drunk with the excitement of their victory, forgot caution and everything- 
else in the wholesale pillage of the captured stores. Meantime the news 
of the dire disaster had reached Sheridan, and in a second there was aroused 
in him all that wonderful quickness of decision and dash of operations 
which made him the most successful cavalry general this country ever pro- 
duced. Mounting his charger, which Buchanan Reed has so vividly de- 
scribed, the doughty general plunged his spurs in deep and in a twinkling 
was off on that ever-memorable ride from Winchester. That the poet did 
take liberties with the facts detracts from Phil. Sheridan not one iota of 
the glory which attaches to his remarkable achievement. When he reached 
his shattered and distracted forces he was in himself a power greater than 
would have been added to the day by fully ten thousand fresh troops. He 
was absolutely irresistible: his presence and his voice restored confidence 
in a manner that nothing else could, and he turned defeat into victory be- 
fore the Confederates could half realize what they had lost. Sheridan fell 
upon them like an avenger, and in their disorder and unsoldier-like con- 
fusidii hi' almost swept them from the face of the earth. Within an hour 
lie liad not iiiily regained all of his own men that had been captured, but 
made jiiisoncrs of as many Confederates. Early retreated in terrible con- 
fusion, but Sheridan came relentlessly upon his rear, fought him hotly at 
every opportunity, and annihilated his command at Waynesboro, where 
the last halt was made. It was one of the greatest consummations of 
all the war; and had Sheridan done naught else he would forever have 
been entitled to the honor of his country and the respect of his foes for 
this one glorious exploit. 

Prior to tiie short run up the trac-k the (|uartct iiad m-dered a convey- 
ance, at Winchester, to make the trip to Rook Enon Springs, and thence 
on via Capon to the road again. It came lumbering up to the depot, — 
this suggestive relict of departed greatness. It was a hack which in its 
pristine days must have been a tony affair, and would have served as a 
capital shelter, for it could be closed up on every side, and nothing short 
of a hurri(^ane could disturb its base, so heavy were not only the wheels 
of the vchiric, liiit tlic liody also. In it sat a young negro, who proved 
to be quite a ehara<'t( r. 'V\\r Four iiad hardly got started before Ben 
commenced on him, keeping the other throe in an incessant state of mer- 
riment for miles. Yes; he had had a father, and, strange to relate, also 
a mother, — had no sisters, but did have a big' brother, who could down 
any man in tlie county. Of his sweetheart he was at first eoy. Imt the 
irresistible tactics employed by Ben ilrcw out of the unsus|)ecl iiig contra- 



Picturesijna />. and O. 



^^U ^^ .^^^% 





band all the 

details of 

ship, his promises, and 

his expectations of future happi 

Of the interesting information imparted by the dusky 

jehu was the fact that the conveyance in which the party 

was so snugly ensconced was a " Virginia Fix." About everj'- 

thing on wheels was known in that part of the country as a " fix 

and the negro, in explaining the different forme of fixes, perpetrated 

many cute sayings, and added not a little to the quartet's knowledge of 

the manners and customs of the old-time Virginian. Meantime the "fix" 

had reached the top of a high hill back of Winchester. From here the 

vista possessed a world of attraction. On the one hand was a bird's-eye 

view of the historical town, whose picturesque effect was heightened by a 

great abundance of foliage out of which sprang long, peaked roofs, with 

odd-fashioned windows, and glistening church spires. Up the valley rose 

mountain back of mountain, those in the foreground standing out in bold 

relief, whilst those behind grew more shadowy as distance lent to them that 

soft, hazy purple which so enhances the beauty of all romantic scenery; 

directly in front, an exquisite little valley with great hills beyond, and upon 

which could plainly be distinguished the broad, hard pike to be traveled 

before the springs would be reached. It was a sixteen-mile drive, but what 



74 The TmnsfnruHttlo,,. 

with an exhilarating atmosphere and congenial company, and above all the 
ceaseless stream of Ben's talk coupled with the negro's rejoinders, made 
time |Kiss (|uickly, and almost before it was fully realized the gateway of 
Re irk k]iiiin was at hand. The quartet, determined upon taking things as 
comfiirtalily and as carelessly as the hardiest of mountain explorers could 
wish, were arrayed in \viilr-riinni(Ml hats, flannel shirts and top-boots. 
Coats had been dispensed witli, as also vests and neckties; and as the 
ancient of days rattled up to the front of the hotel the guests were un- 
questionably pardonable in entertaining grave suspicions as to the true 
character of the crowd. There would be no use in disguising the fact 
that outward appearances gave semblance to the belief that the quartet 
were not F. F. Vs. This was brought quite forcibly to the attention of 
the party by the noisy reception accorded on the part of the rollicking 
troop of boys who in the arrival found much out of the usual routine to 
enjoy. Ben, quick to take in any situation, responded cheerily to the 
salutation of tin- younii'sters, ami fairly frenzied them with the announce- 
ment that fhi- "fix" i()iifaiiii-(l tPii- advancer corps of Barnum's circus. 
More than this, he promised them all ccjmplimentaries, and incited their 
liveliest appreciation of the good things to come by telling them that 
when the posters and hand-bills were put up the people of the entire 
country for a hundred miles around would flock in to the great moral 
show. It may be imagined that such sort of talk on tiie part of the 
incorrigible joker rendered the welcome none the less enthusiastic; and 
as tile tall and vi-iKM-alile form of the pioprietor was seen coming through 
th<' hall to the poreh it toije.l down a little, but still it was so demon- 
strative as to become somewhat irksome. The host looked askance, but 
upon cards being presented grew so cordial and affable that a home- 
like feeling at once came over the party. The first thing in order was 
a bath, and as the fame of the enlivening effect of a plunge at Rock 
Enon had preceded arrival, no time was lost in crossing the lawn to the 
structure wherein the swinnning-poul may well be said to be the center of 
interest. Porters followed with the luggage so that presentable apparel 
might distinguish the reappearance of the Four. At the entrance the 
old colored woman iiaving general charge of affairs held up her hands 
in holy horror, and looked as if the good man of the house had 
gone wrong and permitted possession to be taken by a lot of tramps. 
Once in the bath-house, it was closed to all others; and if anything could 
have been more enjoyable than the swim upon that particular day there 
was no curiosity to discover it. Upon coming out the dusky dame for the 
moment was bewildered, as she did not recognize the party, the change 
from rough to .store clothes having created so decided a transformation. 
Cogitatliii;- a luouM'iit, and li,n-ht dawninu- upon her, she lirially broke out 
with the e.\,laniatiori, ••'Kuic de L.awd vou was a hanl-lo,,kiir lot when 



Picturesque B. and O. 



75 



W- 




THE .KSTIIE'l 



you went in, Ijut you is gem- 
men now." The best part of 
it was that the boys failed 
entirely to identify even Ben, 
and all that day disconsolate- 
ly roamed about endeavoring 
to hunt up those circus men. 
The location of Rock 
l']non Springs in a little val- 
ley surrounded by mountains, 
the gorge to the rear creating 
a current ever preserving a 
ilelightful state of the atmos- 
phere, renders the resort one 
of the most popular in the 
valley. The chalybeate spring 
is of the strength best calcu- 
lated to afford relief for cer- 
tain forms of disease. There 
are four sulphur springs, also 
alkaline springs and spring- 
water, for almost every dis- 
ease which luckless human 
nature is heir to. The most 




7G Th, Fix. 

robust of guesjs as well as the teiulerest of invalids find in the swimming- 
pool, which is fed by the water from several of the largest springs, an 
enjoyment which notliing else can afford. The table as sampled by the 
quartet was pronounced A No. 1 in every respect, the ride and the bath 
having created an appetite which required no ordinary amount of edibles 
to satisfy. Strangers should not labor under the delusion that the vehicle 
which has been described is the only form of transportation offered from 
Winchester to Rock Enon. The regular conveyance is a large brake- 
wagon, to which fleet steppers are attached, and the distance is made 
in an hour and a half to two hours. The party had decided to employ 
special vehicles frnni |)(iints im the railroad to the different springs, the 
plan being to visit Iwn or three and sometimes more places of resort in 
this way. This ducisiun was the only practicable one for the purpose, as 
the regular wagons or carriages were always in use for the particular resorts 
to which they belonged. The " fix," however, was good enough for the 
Four, and its oddity of make, its antique appearance and its wide seats 
added to the zest of the ride, making it more of a novelty; and when the 
negro came jogging up to the front of the hotel prepared for a twelve- 
mile ride over to Capon Springs the party approached it joyfully. 

The drive to Capon was a charming one, — up-hill and down, to be sure, 
but (^nlivi'iicd as it was by the sallies of Ben and the quick repartee of 
Appli' .l:i. k. together with reminiscences of European trips by Yellow- 
stoiif, and comparisons of the old country with his own, the hours passed 
on fast-ilying wings. The darky l>y tliis time was getting quite well 
acquainted with his fare, and now and then gave a .specimen of his 
musical ability, which was of no mean order. He sang old plantation 
songs with an earnestness and a purity of tone which was most agreeable; 
and as it frequently happened that the quartet came in on the chorus the 
hills fairly rang with the melody thus produced. It was a jolly jaunt, and 
when a sharp turn in the road down the mountain-side revealed the stately 
front of the main hotel, there was almost a regretful feeling that there 
were not six or eight miles more to travel. The sun was just setting as 
the horses trotted up the lovely avenue at Capon, and as the golden rays 
came streaming down through the ravine directly in front they lit up the 
scene with a rare splendor. The resort nestles down in a narrow valley, 
with an opening only by the main roadway, which, not far beyond the 
entrance to the ground, ends at Capon Lake. 'I'his is an exquisite body of 
water something over a mile long and liall that in width. The road from 
Enon down the mountain, and over whiih thi- qnartit had come, meets 
the main roadway in full view of the luiildirigs, ami the first sight of 
the place immediately warms ihr lu liokhr to it. The hotel, with its 
pillars, its piazzas and di'cp win. lows, stands wIiiti- its white front best 
contrasts with the massive lorest-ekid mountain l>ehind it. As one 



Picturesque B. and O. 



77 



drives up, the main hotel is to the right, and to the left is a line of cot- 
tages and bath-houses; and just back of these is a romantic little stream 
following its flexuous course by moss-covered rocks and at times break- 
ing over well-worn bould.is wiilrli shine brightly in the glowing light. 
Tiiroughout the entire extent "I' tlic broad avenue are august trees, gleam- 
ing statuary and rustic bowers, the whole forming a picture of rarest 
tints. At the head of the valley are clustered 
"'"-x. . music and other pavilions in a picturesque 

gorge, some of them constructed directly 
■*4f^J ' over the brook, while in others one may 

sit for hours and gaze upon the playful 




„ , ,,,,, ^•^\''. 

waters as they dance merrily on their way. 

Like a schoolboy Yellowstone climbed 
boulders, jumped from crag to crag, and was soon 
upon the top of Eagle Rock, from which elevation he 
beheld a scene not soon to be forgotten. The Blue Ridge 
on the east and the Alleghanies on the west; and looking 
down into the valley of the Shenandoah his quick and observ 
ant eye detected Winchester; and more than this, he could see 
Kernstown and Strasburg, as well as other villages, bathed in the effulgent 
hues of the departing orb. From this eminence Yellowstone came down 
only to lead the party to other high points, and by sunset and twilight 




78 Anotha- VicthH. 

scenes were obtained which rival those far-famed in the countries beyond 
the sea. Before retiring for the night it was resolved to be up at day- 
break, — the first thing in order to be a swim in the gentlemen's pool. 
There is no use of talking, nothing compares with a plunge-bath after 
a journey, or, for that matter, at any time. The mineral water adds 
a buoyancy to the bath, and swimmers who choose may take the end 
where the depth is over their heads, or those who are less brave may 
sport in the delicious water at almost any depth they desire. The 
springs at Capon are alkaline, belonging to the class of alkaloid carbon- 
ates, the waters of which are alterative, tonic, diuretic and aperient. They 
are both partaken of and bathed in, the appliances being extensive, and 
of such range as to afford every accommodation alike to the invalid and 
the healthful. 

Ca]ion is one of the largest resorts in the Valley, and it is no uncom- 
mon thing to entertain during the season as many as si.x hundred guests. 
The springs are arrived at direct from Capon Station on the Valley Branch 
of the Baltimore and Ohio, fifty miles from Harper's Ferry, thence si.xteen 
miles by stage. The drive is a combination of mountain and valley 
scenery which cannot but strike the heart of the coldest beholder. 
While there is more or less of wildness in it, there are no places to 
create fear on the part of the timid, as the road is well constructed 
and of an unusual width. The " fix " rumbled along solidly over it, and 
Ben so worked upon the feelings of the driver that the jehu offered to 
send the outfit back to Winchester and go with the party without any 
other compensation than his grub, as he termed it, and Ben's protecting 
care. The latter, however, made up a little purse that assuaged the grief 
of the darky upon parting, and Tom evidently felt better when, he 
disappeared from sight expressing himself as abundantly able to take 
care of the gentlemen without the assistance of any " low down nigger." 

All along the way to Mount Jackson, seventy-four miles from Harper's 
Ferry, and the next stopping-place of the quartet, the road on either side 
was, (luring the years of the war, the scene of sharp contests between 
oiiposiiig armies. In several places earthworks are still standing, but so 
thickly overgrown with grass and weeds that they are but the peaceful 
reminders of past military activity. The telegraph had been employed 
to insure prompt connection at Mount Jackson for Shenandoah Alum and 
Orkney Springs, the one eleven miles from the station and the other 
twelve. This time, instead of a " Virginia fix " in waiting, there was a 
light carriage with a pair of spanking bays, and a white driver who looked 
as if he might be proof against Ben's quizzing, but who, as experience 
proved later on, fell an easy prey to his wiles. For a change, dinner was 
tak.-ii at the hotel nt Mount Jackson, x\ inodci'ii buildinj;- in all Its appoint- 



Timitque 




HEALINIJ SPKINGS. 

a meal as can be found in many more pre- 
tentious places. The valley opens up some- 
what in the vicinity of Mount Jackson, and 
the well-tilled farms and general aspect of 
prosperity betokeii an energy on the part of 
the inhabitants looking to the best possible 
use of the gifts which nature had bestowed 
upon them. Soon the carriage wliirled up 
the preliminary incline to the mountain, and 
in half an hour it was winding its way over 
a road presenting so many picturesque scenes, 
as to quiet even Ben, and cause him to give 
the driver a little rest. It was not long, how- 




80 TIk- Krreption, not the Rule. 

ever, before several wagons, heavily loaded with tan-bark, were met, and 
Ben became so interested in the product and its market price as to sug-gest 
very extensive business relations with tanneries. The vehicles were of 
various degrees of age, — some drawn by a mule and a horse side by side, 
another by a genuine old-fashioned jackass, a mule and an old blind 
horse; but the last one capped the climax, the motive power being fur- 
nished by an ox and a cow, with a diminutive mule, tandem. The owner 
of this striking equipage would have delighted Nast, for here was an 
exact representative of the exaggerated Southerner so frequently cari- 
catured. He wore the traditional large-brimmed hat, had neither coat 
nor ve.st, and his butternut pants were held somewhere in place by a 
single suspender, which evidently had at one time served as a portion of 
an ox-goad. The lower portion of his face was covered with a long, tawny, 
tangled beard, while his eyes shot out their sullen rays from beneath 
eyebrows large and scraggy enough to serve as eaves to an ordinary-sized 
barn. Ben had inquired of each man in turn the price of tan-bark, and 
had remonstrated with some of them for selling it too cheap. When 
the fellow just described came plodding along, Ben propounded to him the 
stereotyped inquiry, and for an answer was not over-politely requested to 
seek that resort which in general is considered to be rather warm all the 
year round. This rebuff staggered Ben only for a moment, and laughing 
quietly to himself he remarked, sotto voce, that if ever he should be so 
unfortunate as to be obliged to reside below it would be doubly irksome 
for him, from the fact that he would have to meet that chap again. As 
a rule, however, Ben's good-natured inquiries were cheerfully answered; 
and those who suppose that the picture just drawn of one " pesky 
critter," as they are so aptly termed in the South, should stand as a fair 
illustration of the people as a whole, have only to knock about in the 
Virginia Valley for a few weeks to be effectually cured of any such hallu- 
cination. No more generous or hospitable people can be found on God's 
footstool than arc the V'irginians; and so far as the war is concerned, very 
n-w indcM^d aiiKirii;- tlu'iii will brinii' n). tin' subject or discuss any of the 
<|urstl<iiis ai-isini;- out of it without lirst bring incited to it by the course 
which not a few Northern men think it incumbent upon them to pursue 
as soon as they get south of Mason and Dixon's line. Certainly the Vir- 
ginians suffered enough in loss and depredation without now wasting their 
time talking about it with nun who know nothing of the real situation 
except from hearsay. \'isitois tr> tlic ditfcrent resorts in the Valley 
of the Virginia will find the sann' cordial and hearty greeting whether 
they (-onic from the .\,,ith or Iroiii the South, and. inon- than this, will 
enjoy the .same o|i|hiiI unily lo laslc, lo its fullest extent, of tiie invigo- 
ralinu- infliienees of iiDuritaiii air, of seenerv more pieturesouo than can 



f 



1 




»i-^ 



83 Pmk upon Peak. 

tality more genuine tliaii which cannot be found among- any pcoph- on 
the face of the globe. 

Ten miles of the way toward Shenandoah had been traversed when 
the carriage halted immediately at the intersection of two roads, where 
a couple of young girls, hurrying from the inclosure with pitcher and 
glasses, afforded the quartet a chance to pucker up their mouths by a 
good long drink of wholesome alum-water. This was the diverging point 
to Shenandoah Alum Springs, and a brisk trot of a few moments ended at 
the comfortable and cozy resort at the base of a spur of the Blue Ridge. 

Shenandoah Alum is not a large place, but it is just the sort of spot 
a man of family feels he would like to have his wife and children summer 
at. The hotel and cottages front on a lawn, which is so shaded as to 
afford the coolest of spots for a retreat to while away the day. The pro- 
vision for the ('njnyiiicnt of children and the little folks, in the way of 
croquet and kindnd outdoor sports, is all that the fondest of mothers could 
wish for. There are no particular pretensions to style at Shenandoah, as 
the aim is to insure comfort and rest without carrying the dissipations of 
the winter ov.er into the summer. It is a home-like resort, and the hundred 
or more people who a\ail tin in.si-lves of its accommodations remain, as a 
rule, during the hot nionlhs, and leave only when it becomes so cool as 
to i('<|iiii(> till' vise of double blankets at night. For health and rest it 

would I).' illHirult to ii:i :i more advantageous locality. The main springs 

consist ol alum, l)ut there are also chalybeate, sulphur, iron and arsenic; 
and invalids seeking the health-restoring qualities of Nature's own reme- 
dies may consult their physician as to whether or not waters of this ch:;- 
racter are best adapted for their cases. As hitherto stated, no trouble can 
be experienced by any one in .securing the pamphlets of the different 
resorts, which not only specif3- the varieties of springs, but also give rates 
for accommodation and other essential details. 

From Shenandoah Springs to Orkney is but a short ride uj) a rather 
steep hill, and down to the foot of it to the Springs. The view from 
the highest point is a grand one, and those fond of gazing upon a mul- 
tiplicity of mountain peaks, and of range back of range, with pastoral 
.scenes in the foreground, are loth to leave the point of observation until 
its full revelation is developed. The quartet, turning from the past to 
what lay before them, looked down upon Orkney with no ordinary mani- 
festations of the impressions whieli the sight made upon them. The 
commodious buildings looked eli.u'iiiingiy out upon a plateau at the foot 
of the mountains, with the inviting drives in almost all directions, and a 
broad boulevard leading up to the main entrance of the hotel. 

Orkney is a representative Valley resort,, with its lengthy buildings sto- 
ried up to the roof with broad piazzas, and its outlying cottages and music 
pavilions all well built and neatly painted, and presenting an aspect of 




,^ s a »i 

■: im ■^- t ill*. I [fiVrn'fr ' 



^^--:^«£ 



tlie utiimst I Ibdiilliitsb and ctiii. Hit ^pnii.,^ ^-■ 

are on the western slope of the mountain, twenty-three hundred feet 
above the level of the sea. The waters are of a tonic and alterative 
character. One of the most favored of these springs has afforded remark- 
able relief in eases of dyspepsia, and others are used as baths and for 
skin diseases, while throughout the list are to be found specific remedial 
qualities adapted for the removal of almost any trouble. The atmosphere 
at such an altitude is necessarily pure, dry and exhilarating, and is of 
itself calculated to be an effective agent in the restoration of impaired 
health and vigor. At Orkney one can take up his abode in the hotel, 
or a party sufficiently numerous may together occupy a row of buildings, 
and if it consist of a single family all the comforts of home 
may be found in a cottage'. In the height of th<> , 
season Orkney is somewhat like a little fit\ Jl'^ 

There are suitable accomniod.itions for eight 

hundred guests, and almost 

no end of pleasure aftoided 




84 Tl,( Sut.hfi/h<<i T<.„tl,i,U-k. 

for their entertainment. 'I'ln' i|iuultt sitting on the lower porch presented 
a picture of perfect content nuMit, tin- presence of toothpicks indicating a 
repast of a Very compensating ciiaracter. Students of human nature have 
observed it as nearly, if not quite, the uniform rule, that when a man fol- 
lows up a meal with a toothpick one may be pretty certain that it has been 
of a satisfying nature; especially is this so should a man carelessly toy witli 
a toothpick between his lips, for otherwise he may be depended upon to 
be so vexed, first with the landlord for having victimized him, and next 
with himself for liaving become so innocent a victim, as to have no patience 
left to abstain from crunching the inoffensive splint of wood with a single 
bite. Applying this canon to the quartet, it was evident that things had 
gone to their liking in the dining-room at Orkney. The quarters pro- 
vided for the night left no room for criticism, for not only were they filled 
to profusion with pure and fresh air, but the beds were not strangers to 
springs, and sheets clean and sweet, and pillows luxurious, and everything 
else in keeping. The vote next morning was unanimous that Orkney 
filled the bill in every respect. The return trip to Mount Jackson was as 
enjoyable as the outward trip, for new beauties were revealed af almo.st 
every turn in the road. 

Leaving Mount Jackson, a run of seven miles brought the party to 
New Market, where the battle between Breckinridge at the head of 
the Confederate forces and Sigel commanding the Federal soldiers was 
fought. The latter outnumbered the former, but was defeated on account 
of bad generalship. Of Breckinridge's troops that day were two com- 
panies of young boys from the Lexington Military Institute, and who 
distinguished themselves very highly on the field of action. Sigel re- 
treated down the valley, but Breckinridge did not pursue him, being con- 
tent with having forced the men who " fought mit Sigel " to get out of his 
immediate way. Nineteen miles farther south and Harrisonburg was reached, 
and fresh memories of the war invoked. When Stonewall Jackson cap- 
tured Winchester, in 1802, he found that Fremont was trying to intercept 
his retreat at Strasburg. He immediately gave orders to fall back, and suc- 
ceeded in passing Strasburg before Fremont's advance guard arrived, and 
made his way without molestation to Harrisonburg. Upon arrival he left 
the main pike and struck to the left toward Port Republic, where the 
Confederate General Ashby, a few days subsequently, was killed in repel- 
ling a charge of the famous Pennsylvania " Bucktails." The battle of 
Cross Keys, in June 1862, was fought eight miles from Harrisonburg, and 
was one of the fiercest of the war. Fremont was rapidly pursuing Jack- 
son up the valley while Shields was pushing on through the Luray Valley 
to intercept Jackson at Front Royal. Jackson found himself in one of the 
worst situations possilile, having an army in fr<mt and in the rear, and the 
river between. On the 8tli of .liuic l'"rciMont attacked Jackson at Cross 



rirti,r<>.«pii' n. iniil O. 




kcvstlK bittl( 
lagmir throiigli 

^^^ ^ ' Tlu latter, ' 

li.ul as vet bton 
getting the best 
II w 1 11 DAM mis of It, retreated, 

and undercover 
of night crossed over and burned the bridge at Port Republic, and on the 
9th suddenly fell upon Shields. Fremont was on the other side of the 
river, and had to look on and see Shields again routed without being able 
to render him any assistance. Jackson followed Shields down the Page 
Valley and Fremont moved his forces down the Shenandoah, fearful that he 
would be intercepted by Jackson, who, after resting two days, moved his 
corps to Richmond, arriving in time to participate in the seven daj's' fight. 



86 G/ori<j>is <',,„il.h,„ti„n.-<. 

Rawley Springs is but flcvcn inilo distant fnnn Harrislitirg, and a 
fine outfit beitig in waiting. \u> time- was lost in moving from the car 
to the carriage. It wonld Ipr ilillicnit to roni-eive of a more enjoyable 
ride than was that to UawKv. The road is like a race-track the 
entire distance. Tlic ( levin milis were covered easily in a little over 
an hour, and the first \ie\\ of l.'auley faiily made Yellowstone hold 
his breath. Contrary to tlie rule followed at niost of the resorts, the 
buildings at Rawley Springs are not located upon a level at the foot of 
the range, but are set in tiie mountain gorge, and the beholder might 
easily imagine himself in Switzerland. The architecture, also, is such 
as to favor the illusion, the Rawley hotel in fact being a Swiss chalet, 
although, perhaps, somewhat large. Iligii up between two grand moun- 
tains tile aseent, brisk as it is, is hardly noticed, the inspiration of the 
scene prec ludine aiiv physical discomfort in attaining it. The buildings 
are joined one to the other by covered passage-ways, and the great trees 
growing unreslriited througli the roomy piazzas casting so dense a shade 
that at no lioiu- durine- all the- day can the sun penetrate to their inner- 
most recesses. Some, at the lirst t liought, might think that this exuber- 
ance of lollaL;!- wouM iTeate a dam|iness, but a moment's pause to con- 
sider the elexation and the jjurity of the atmosphere would speedily dis- 
cover the fallacy of any sueli suspicion. As a nuitter of course the 
entire place is not so sheltered as to deprive it of svnilight; but the all- 
desirable thing in a summer resort is shade, and the Imihlers at Rawley, 
in sparing the noble trees by building .around llnui. not only rendered 
the porches delectable on a liot day, but at the same time gave the place 
a picturesque effect they doubtless never dreanuMl of. Between the hotel 
building on the steej> side of one of the mo\nilalns and one immediately 
adjacent to the left there is a ravine, whieh has not only the charms of 
a mountain stream, but within its naiiou depths tin- vision falls ujion a 
succession of rock, water and forest ell'eel which lan much more easily 
be spoken of than described. A icsc.il so located, with such advantages 
of shade and of air, cannot l>e oiIk rwise than a salubrious home for the 
summer. And it well deserves llie n.ime of home, for it is kept in the 
real old Vlre-ini.a style: an aliurLdan,M. ,,r ..verything go.Hl in tli.' old-fash- 

and all that sort ol' tiling, limited only Ky the capacity of the gu<.sts to 

of room .■ilfonleil lor eight hundivd persons. Whil,- there are balls and 
receptions, and so on to the liillesl exleul of the progrannue usually 
provided at summer resorts, there is but little attempt at style, the ]ire- 
vailing rule appearing to lie enjoyment in any and every way as best 
suits^the people who come. 

It was the good fortune ol the ipiarlet to meet at llic Sjirings a Haiti- 



Picturesque B. ami O. 



8T 




more lady and her two daughters, 
whom to know was to obtain a fresh 
insight into the pleasures of com- 
panionship. . The mother, a Balti- 
more belle from her girlhood, proved 
how secure a foundation have the 
claims of the Monumental City to 
the beauty and the culture and the 
refinement of its women. The elder 
daughter was in the full realization 
of perfect womanhood, — bright of 
eye, charming of manner and rare 
of speech; the younger just budding 
into a stateliness of beauty and winsome ways which within a very few 
years will set many a man's heart beating to a tune which it will be 
hard for him to refrain from imparting the cause of. With this trio 
of comely women the quartet became individually and collectively new 
men. The carelessness of every-day association with each other gave 
way to a pride in appearances which indicated that a soft place in heart 
or head had been touched, and no jaunt was too fatiguing or trip to 
favored spot too exacting for 
them, to make at the slightest 
wish expressed on the part of 
their fair enslavers. Accordingly 
the four gallants with the three 
ladies strolled up lovers' walk, 
and when the top was reached 
it is still a matter of conjecture 
with the individuals constituting 
the quartet as to which was the 
most enjoyed, the feminine love- 
liness, which was enhanced by 
the climb in the bracing atmos- 
phere, or the natural beauty so 
exquisite in the sunset. All sum- 
mer resorts have lovers' walks, 

and if they have a promontory ten feet high it is almost invariably 
known as lovers' leap. The trip to the lovers' walk at Rawley is wonder- 
fully attractive, and accompanied as it is by a slight semblance of danger, 
the boys like it none the less; and the frequency with which the girls 
accept invitations to be helped up indicates that little thrilling episodes 
are not by any means objectionable. It is an alpine scramble, with the dis- 
tance to the valley below constantly growing greater, and when the oliiiia.v 




88 r,„ltilin,n' /IrZ/r.-.: 

Imists upon the vision tin' ni;in in tlic iron mask, whom lra<lition lias it 
nrvt-r spolio a word, wouM at tin' sight have l)rokcn forth as volubly as 
the most susceptible of sc'hool-girls. is'otwithstandiiig the fact that the 
highest point of lovers' walk at Rawley commands a view down the 
precipice whicli is appalling in its abruptness and depth, it is not, strange 
to relate, known as a lovers' leap, but instead is sensibly proclaimed as 
the idiotic jump. As greatly as Yellowstone was impressed with his fair 
comjianion, tlio mother, and as keenly desirous of securing favor in the 
eyis "I till ynunger daughter as was Apple Jack, it is certain that neither 
of tin in cdulil have been tempted to make the leap at Rawley, or at any 
other place not half so precipitous. The view is best expressed in the one 
word sublime. It extends for mile upon mile, springing as it were from 
mountain ridge to mountain ridge, until the la.st is lost in the clouds. 
In till' immediate foreground is seen a dainty bit of valley, through 
whirh meanders a tiny stream ; tall mountains to the left, and more 
mountains in shadowy outline to the right. Sti-aight in front, looking 
over the dizzy height, the roadway to the hotel is marked clear and 
distinct, its curves growing shorter with the ascent. Turning almost 
full arounc], there stands the liotel, in its picturesqueness partaking 
of a grandeur far in excess of the original material of its construction. 
After dinner the quartet and the ladies made the pilgrimage to the top 
to view the scene in the full flood of the sun's zenith. Again, just before 
supper, went the coterie up that same jjath to drink in charms by the 
glorious red light of sunset. For the third time these insatiate devourers 
of the beautiful trod the tortuous way to sit fascinated by the scene 
bathed in the silver sheen of the moon. It was a night without a blem- 
isli, her lunar majesty sitting supreme in the heavens, and not a single 
cloud to dispute her sway or detract one iota from the bliss which she 
was so generously bestowing upon mortals. 

The springs at Rawley are within a step of the liotil, ijiid are of a 
varied character. The waters are chalybeate, and their tonic ])r()pcr- 
ties are due, in a great measure, to the large proportion of imn in tluin, 
which of all metals is considered to be the most congenial with the hniuari 
org.inisin, )>r(>ilncing the greatest beneficial results in diseases of ann?mia 
or dcliilitv. l''or years many of the best known sportsmen in Virginia have 
madr K.nvlcy 1 heir camping-ground during the summer for the fishing to 
be olitalii.'.l .-ilong the streams, and in tlir fall for tin- hunting in the 
mountains. Large game abound, and those who have a desire for close 
companionshij) with bear, deer and elk may hero lie accommodated. 

The fair dainc ,in.l Imi- daughters from Baltimore were spending 
the season at Whit.- Sulphur Springs, having run down to Rawley for a 
short visit with friends stiip])irig there The impressions resulting from 
the acqualnlanee appeared to bi- mulual, the ladies readily accepting 



Picturesque B. a)id O. 



89 



the invitation of the quartet to make the ride back to Harrisonburg 
together. An extra carriage was secured and the party started off in 
high spirits. Between the youngest daughter and Apple .Jack there 
was developed a feeling which bid fair to merge at some future time 
into the tender passion; Ben, it 
is to be feared, permitted jjangs 
of regret to fill his bosom tiiat 
he was not in position to cherish 
a closer acquaintance with the 
elder daughter; while Yellow- 
stone and the mother got on 
famously. There was much in 
accord in their inspirations and 
cultured sympathies. The lady 
was not only an excellent talker 
but a capital listener. Yellow- 
stone combined these two high 
qualities to perfection, and the 
twain became so much occupied 
with each other that the Fairy 
was rather left out in the cold. 

At Harrisonburg the liulics 
were regretfully bid adieu and 
the special took up its way south- 
ward. Every foot of the line to 
Staunton was rendered historic 
during the war, the pike run- 
ning near by having been fiercely 
contested time and time again by 
the opposing forces. Between 

Harrisonburg and Staunton, twelve miles from the former place, the 
station for Weyer's Cave was reached. The cave was fourteen miles 
distant by stage, and the new hotel completed last season affords every 
facility for the entertainment of visitors. The cavern is one of striking 
extent, and its different chambers present startling fantasies of forma- 
tion. Staunton, from its commercial importance, is the leading city of 
the Valley. It is a favorite with tourists, situated as it is on an elevated 
position al the head of the Shenandoah Valley, with the Blue Ridge on 
the east and extending around to the west to a range of the Alleghaiiies. 
Several noted educational institutions are located at Staunton, and it is 
a center of unusual interest. The B. and O. Railroad Company, in ex- 
tending its line from Staunton to Lexington, will offer the shortest and 
by all means the most advantageous line to the famous Natural Bridge of 




90 7'Ac Sextet. 

Virginia. Running in ilosc vicinity to this remarkable freak of nature, 
and bringinji; it within nuu-h easier access than ever before enjoved, it 
will no doubt induce largely increased travel. 

At Lexington is the Virginia Military Institute and tiie NVashington 
Lee University, of which General Robert E. Lee was j)resi(lont, and in the 
chapel basciiiciit uf whiih tlic great military chieftain, his wife and his 
daughter arc Inn iid. TIk- icmains of General Jackson are also entombed 
at Lexington. This extension of the Baltimore and Ohio now under rapid 
construction will doubtless be pushed on to direct connection with the 
epctensive railway systems further south. Meantime it will enable visitors 
tb Valley resorts to reach them more directly. Of these, Rockbridge 
Baths, Rockbridge Alum Springs and Jordan Alum Springs are the 
largest and best known,— the two last named distant from Lexington 
but eight miles. 

The Stribling Springs are thirteen miles fniui .Staunton, rearhed hy 
stage over an excellent road and through a country re])lctc witli attractive 
features. The waters of the different springs are ;ilum, suljihur und 
chalybeate. 

There was in the arrival of the quartet at Staunton a special pleasure 
not embraced within the city's varied offerings of scenery, business activity 
or educational interests. Two of the party blessed with partners of whom 
they had not yet tired, notwithstanding many years of conjugal relation- 
shiji, expected there such wifely welcome as might for the moment render 
miserable and forlorn the two luckless members for wlioni no sucli happi- 
ness was in store. The letters descriptive of the trij), whicii had from 
time to time reached the. feminine treasures, had by degrees aroused 
their curiosity, — which attribute has in all ages been generously vouch- 
.safed to womankind; and the conferences of the two, held for the purpose 
of taking action thereon, quickly resulted as was to be expected. To 
indulge in an entirely original e.vpression, they came, they saw, they con- 
quered — not only their worse halves, but Ben and Apple Jack, and, let it 
not fail to \n- iicordiMl, Tom as well. The whites of the happy servitor's 
eyes sparkled in strDiiger contrast than ever with their ebony pupils, and 
were matched only by glistening rows of teeth exhibited so far back as to 
make one wonder if the process of closing them was not necessarily by 
sections. A Chesterfield in black, Tom's attentions were so well timed 
and so complete that the ladies were at home at once, and the car took on 
a new beauty and brightness. The feminine Yellowstone, trim pf figure, 
graceful in action and in repose; apt, clear-headed, and quick as a flash 
in repartee, her voice was a charm none could withstand: used so deftlj' in 
conversation and .so nuisically in song, there was no end to the demands 
upon it. n.-rsclf an aillst'of rare rxc^lUiU'.-. Iut pirturrs ha.l been 



9a Utterly Utter. 

only talent can enter. Sensible and practical as was Mrs. Y., she had 
been touched to a considerable extent by the .esthetic craze, and her 
" too toos," " too transcendently all but.s," and similar nonson.sc, added 
piquancy to her talk and manner. To her Aesthetic eye everything- 
had something lily-like about it, and the more difficult this iiappened to 
be for others to perceive or imagine, the more extravagant her expres- 
.sions. The Fairy's helpmeet was an interesting little body, girlish in form, 
with a merry eye, and face lit up by an animation that betokened at once 
beauty, intelligence and refinement. Powers of speech never failing upon 
any subject, she was indeed a fairy with magic wand most potent. Con- 
trasted with her big, unwieldy lord, the paradoxical appellative by which 
he was distinguished among men became a more apparent absurdity than 
ever. The fairy in truth was one of the best-natured and jolliest of 
women, and as Yellowstone's wife was not a whit behind her in this re- 
spect, it may ijo imagined what buoyancy and increased opportunities 
for enjoyment were imparted bj' the presence of these two hearts' idols. 

i'>y tiie further courtesy of railroad officials the special train was taken 
on beyond Staunton, and the first stop was made at Millboro Station. On 
the way a short time was spent at Goshen, thirty-two miles from Staun- 
ton, where is erected an in\ iting hotel named after the town, and where 
not a few people annually spend the summer. The Cold Sulphur Springs 
are two miles from Goshen, the close proximity of the railroad leading 
many business men to prefer it, owing to the little time consumed in run- 
ning over from the train. It is a cheerful place with accommodations 
for a hundred or more. The waters are a light tonic adapted to delicate 
constitutions, and are especially applicable for dyspeptic, liver and kidney 
complaints. The majority of visitors to the Rockbridge Baths, Rock- 
bridge Alum and Jordan Alum Springs leave the train at Goshen, and 
to the first-named resort drive eleven miles over one of the prettiest 
routes imaginable. It is mainly a valley road, one of the most impressive 
features of which is the passage through Goshen Pass and along the river 
bank, both famous for their scenery. 

But the quartet had planned a tour to several resorts by wagon, 
making the start from the next station, Millboro, and the visit to Rock- 
bridge Baths was included. For the same reason Rockbridge Alum and 
Jordan Alum Springs were not visited from Goshen; from which point, 
however, the regular stage line runs to these places, eight miles from the 
railroad depot. The party had heard so much of the wild and rough ride 
over the mountains from Millboro to Rockbridge Alum that it was deter- 
mined to go that way, spending the night at the s])rings and returning 
to the car the next day in time to sot out on the tour already referred to. 

At Millboro the special was sid(>-traeked and ])re])arations s]K'edily 
made for the jaunt ov(;r the Blue Ridge, '{'he ladies, who had had no 



Pictnrexij'iie li. and O. 



experience as yet in following a tortuous road up rocky inclines and 
around dizzy precipices, were so eager to get started as to render Ben 
quite uneasy for fear things would be forgotten, to the discomfort of 
the feminine portion of the party. The strapping fellow had taken a 
violent fancy to the a?sthetically inclined Mrs. Y. ; and while he never 
before could see any very ravishing beauty in a sunflower, and had been 
decidedly disinclined to stand more than four hours at a stretch gazing 
at the petals of a lily, he assumed a fondness for such sort of things 
which made the practical members of the quartet smile visibly. Yellow- 
stone, not to be outdone in srallantrv, demonstrated a warm side for the 



Fairy's agile con- 
were light of foot, 
with no more con- 
danger than if they 
about in a manner 
to each one's lawful 
ing members of the 
now constituted, — 
find solace in uni- 
prised to find how 
could be obtained 
was so unmistaka- 
ing genius. For the 
fortuitous compan- 
bust and dauntless 
very advantageous, 
leading to the ful- 
the part of the fat 
of a helping hand 
cles where big feet 



sort, and as the two 
quick of action, and 
ception of p<.ssible 
had wings, skipped 
that was harassing 
mate. The remain- 
sextet, — as it was 
were compelled to 
son, and were sur- 
much of enjoyment 
where congeniality 
bly the all-govern- 
Fairy, at least, this 
ionship with the ro- 
youth proved to be 
subsequent events 
lest appreciation on 
man of the services 

A VIUIilMA l!l-,l,l,l. 

to surmount obsta- 
d bigger stomach were of not the slightest avail. 
There is a cozy hotel at Millboro. Its shady porches, luxuriant garden 
and pure atmosphere render it an attractive place almost all the year 
round. It is not without its springs, as there are several near by, and 
quite diflerent in chemical constituents. One is chalybeate, another is 
alkaline, and others are sulphur, and according to medical authority are 
of a pronounced curative order. While the party was inspecting Millboro 
House a comfortable, well-built mountain wagon had driven up, and 
within its interior was found an abundance of space for all. The team 
attached was a powerful one, and the driver a master of his profession. 
The strength of the horses and the dexterity of the reinsman were des- 
tined to be called into active play before Rockbridge Alum was reached. 
Almost from the start it was a climb, and as the way pressed onward the 
surroundings became wilder and wilder, and soon the actual ascent of a 




94 WhistliN,/ Mad.- J'Jxs;/. \ 

very narrow road over a formidable ridge was begun. Tills caused the 
ladies to grow less talkative, for besides the extent of country to be seen 
from the vehicle it was now on the verge of a sheer precipice, and along 
this the path led. The situation was one calculated to shake stronger 
nerves. Ben sat on the front seat with the driver, and as he had once 
in his life gone over a bank in a carriage, to the serious detriment of 
the bones in one of his legs, he did not fancy a repetition of the experi- 
ence. But there was in reality little or no danger, as the road, though 
rough, and not much used, was nevertheless .safe enough for a careful 
driver to make his way over it without trouble. The pace was necessarily 
slow, and as night came dn rapidly the ladies did not appear to take 
things in with the same gusto as when the start was made. It was plump 
dark when the top of the mountain was attained, and the drive down 
the other side was considerably faster, and what with the elevation above 
the valley, the sharp turns in the road, and tin- succession of rather 
frightful glimpses down abrupt declines, was not particularly assuring. 
Still, as all things come to an end, so did tire trip to Rockbridge Alum, 
and the reception whicli was accorded on arrival was hearty and genial, 
and effectually drove away all remembrance of terror. 

Rockbridge Alum is spacious in its lay-out, nearly the wliole of the 
valley in which it is situated being occupied by the principal buildings, 
cottages, bath-houses, and th$. like. The view- from the portico of the 
hotel is one which makes the guest content to remain. An almost un- 
limited number of spots may readily be found where the sun upon the 
hottest days of the year cannot penetrate, and where it is always cool 
and invigorating. Little suffering is ever experienced from the heat at 
Rockbridge Alum; the nights are invariably cool enough to require blan- 
kets, and except in actual midsummer fires are in frequent demand both 
.•v.-ninn' and nmniing. 

lniiih',|i,-,lrl\ adjoining Rockbridge .Mum Is .b.rdan .Vluiii. Hotii of 
these will-kniiwu resorts were a year nrtud since ednsolidiited into one. 
The location of the hotel at .lonhin .\luiii is (.11 the brow dl' a syiii- 
nifitrical hill, with a iiigii mountain beliind, and fidin this eminence a 
panorama many miles in extent may be brought within the range of 
vision. The water from the springs at Rockbridge as well as Jordan 
has long been popidar in the markets of the countiy, as it is shipped 
in large quantities to the leading cities. Tli<>re can be no question about 
its being largely impregnated with alum, lor after drinking a quantity 
of it one finds no difficulty in whistling. It draws up the mouth and 
lips after a fashion that should render happy those poor unfortunate 
creatures who are blessed with countenances sufl^ciently open to tickle 
the risibles of their humorous friends. Tlii. medicinal value of the 
springs is beyond I'stimale ; they aie siMi))ly unrivaled in the cure of 



I'ivtnresque B. and O. 



95 




scrofulous complaints, dj'spepsia, 
and disordered secretions in gen 
eral. The accommodations at 
these combined resorts are on a 
liberal scale, and as many as a 
thousand people can be enter 
tained at one time. The host 
very kindly gave the party rooms 
opening off the parlor, in which 
were a grand piano, a guitar and 
a violin. These additional facil- 
ities for enjoyment were seized 
without ceremony, and with Mrs. 
Yellowstone at the piano, the 
Fairy's wife at the guitar, and 
Apple Jack at the fiddle, with 
Ben, Yellowstone and the Fairy 
to join in the chorus, there was 
music in the air at Rockbridge 
that night, and no mistake. 

The team was brought around 
bright and early next morning 
for the return trip over the same 

road that the sextet had traveled the evening before with such mingled 
emotions. Having become somewhat acquainted with it, and discounting 
in advance the rough places, the ladies particularly were in better shape 
to enjoy the ride, and all were united in declaring that its wildness much 
more than recompensed for the discomforts which had been endured in 
mind and body. In the matter of distance this is the shorter line to 
Rockbridge as compared with that from Goshen, as the former is five 
miles, and the latter eight. But the trip from Goshen can be made in 
quicker time than can that by the shorter road, and those who are at 
all timid or who are disposed to be luxurious in bodily comforts would 
fare better by going that way. On the other hand, those who have a 
fondness for something out of the usual run, have a taste for adventure, 
and a keen enjoyment of the picturesque, .should go to Millboro and make 
the mountain trip from there. 

Tom, pursuant to instructions, had an early dinner prepared upon 
the arrival of the party at Millboro. Fresh steeds had been ordered, 
and just about noon on as glorious a day as ever was vouchsafed to man- 
kind the departure was made for a tour of the five resorts embraced witliin 
a circuit of the drive from Millboro to Covington on the railroad, direc- 
tions having been given Tom to have the car taken to that point. The 



IHE iOLD CIIMHKR 



96 The, River and Beyond. 

route lay in an almost opposite direction from that taken to Rockbridge. 
Two miles from the station a brief visit was made at Millboro Springs, 
which is pleasantly located upon a high plateau not far distant from a 
swiftly flowing river. The usual variety of springs was found there, — 
sulphur, alum and chalybeate. These, being of different strength and 
properties, are declared to be of pronounced benefit for the pains and 
impediments they are intended to alleviate or to remove. The hotel 
building fronts upon the stage road, and is sheltered by rows of trees 
of sturdy growth. It is an airy spot, and is in close proximity to the 
railroad, which to a number of persons is a desirable feature. Pushing 
on from Millboro Springs the road soon took a decided curve and there 
was disclosed a lengthy expanse of valley rising by gentle slopes from 
the banks of a little river of clear and scintillating waters. The drive 
thence for a mile or more was very enjoyable, and was a fit prepara- 
tion for the initial glimpse of Wallawhatoola Springs, three miles from 
Millboro Station. As the road draws near, the stream gains in width 
and assumes, directly in front of Wallawhatoola, such proportions and 
beauty that it rivals many of the lakes made famous by the descrip- 
tive powers of noted writers. The face of the river is as smooth as 
burnished silver, and its depths are so pure that they show to the mi- 
nutest details the exquisite incrustations of moss at the bottom. A sus- 
pension-bridge spans this body of water. It is both light and grace- 
ful, and of a width to accommodate only pedestrians. As the road leads 
directly to the bank on the opposite side from the hotel all visitors are 
introduced to the picture before actually reaching the house. Walla- 
whatoola is not an extensive resort, having accommodations perhaps for 
not more than one hundred; but for a summer home with immediate 
surroundings that are so many sources of perfect rest and recuperation, 
with opportunities for mountain climbing, for boating and for pleasure 
of almost every description, it has indeed few equals. The springs gush 
forth from rocky caverns on the same side of the river that the road 
runs, and this accounts for the building of the bridge for the use 
of those who visit them from the hotel. Vehicles of every description 
ford the river, as the bed is of gravel and quite solid. The stay here 
was out somewhat short owing to the programme of the day calling for 
an hour or so at Bath Alum Springs, two miles distant, and spending 
the night at Warm Springs, fifteen miles in all from Millboro Station. 
The drive from Wallawhatoola to Bath Alum was of short duration, the 
road smooth and mostly level, and affording a capital opportunity to 
demonstrate the trotting qualities of the horses. 

Bath Alum is directly upon the stage road, and has a number of spa- 
(uous buildings on tin- right hand side and a i)ark on the left. It is an 
old and popular retreat. The hotel and cottages are of brick, and are 



98 Dame Nature's Provocations. 

built in a substantial manner. The mountains in which the springs are 
located are some distance back from the buildings, but the walk is a 
pleasing one, and the mineral qualities of the water are so pronounced 
that one is well repaid the little exertion of reaching them. The alum 
waters are the chief feature here, but there are in addition chalybeate 
springs of different strength and an iron spring of some celebrity. During 
the season it is quite gay at Bath Alum, for besides the equipages of 
guests all the travel to M^'ann Springs and beyond is by the road which 
passes, as before remarked, in front of the hotel and cottages. Leaving 
Bath Alum, for a short distance the line retains its level character and 
then commences the ascent of Warm Spring Mountain. Those who have 
become familiar with the roadways diverging from the Virginia Val- 
ley are ever enthusiastic regarding the drive from Bath Alum to Warm 
Springs, many of whom declare that it has no equal in the country, 
while others acknowledge that it has no superior. Among the latter 
may truly be included the sextet, the male as well as the female portion. 
Tlie incline, from the very moment the road leaves the valley, is sharp 
and decisive, but the nearer the summit is approached, the more remarka- 
ble the view becomes. Half way up, the observer, thrilling with the 
emotions which the rich and varied landscape produces, breaks out 
exultingly with the declaration that nothing can equal it. On, and slowly 
on, the horses go, the traces stretched to their utmost tension and the 
animals puffing from continuous effort. The strong and symmetrical 
pines whicli tower up from the edge of the road are aggravating in their 
density, interee])ting as tliey do the range of vision to such an extent 
tliat one instinctively lonus for aw ax that he might set to work and fell 
them to mother earth. Xi \ iithiless they serve a useful purpose, for 
so majestic and vast is the scciu' over which the eye roams at will, that 
the mind would be subjected to too great a strain if the view were 
altogether without a break. At the top a halt was made, and the party 
sprang to the ground in order to seek, if possible some greater elevation 
that would enable them to satiate themselves with the landscape. 
Yellowstone, turning away as if by accident from the retrospect that 
he was enjoying of the country which they had just traversed, excitedly 
demanded that the others should about-face in order to realize that which 
was yet before tliom. 

Sucli a spot on tlie summit of Warm Spring Mountain is, to mortals, 
a provocation on tlic part of Dame Nature amounting almost to irrita- 
tion. The ever-clianging panorama witnessed during the entire trip 
up tlie mountain and culminating in sucii magnificence is of itself suffi- 
ciently inspiring, but when, in addition to this, one is treated to such a 
sight as that of Warm Spring Valley the miiiil of man is too small to 
fully appreciate it. Tiie sun was just setting at thi> moment when the 



Picturesque Ji. and 0. 



party stood looking up the valley. The river, a thousand feet or more 
below, appeared like a thread of crystal, and the white cluster of 
buildings at Warm Springs in the distance was toned by the mel- 
low rays of the sunset to a most delicate pink. Back of these arose 
high up a forest-covered ridge of mountains, others again extending line 
upon line as far as the eye could reach. Directly up the valley the 
vision, falling upon the crimson disk of the sinking sphere, was startled 
by the distinctness and boldness with which the peaks, behind which 
Old Sol seeks his rest, stand out from the surroundings, their forms by 
comparison becoming simply gigantic in proportions. Darkness came on so 
suddenly that the drive down to the hotel was made in quick time, and 
the reception by the landlord there was one which might well be remem- 
bered as that of a typical Virginia host. Tall, with hair of snowy 
whiteness, a well-trimmed beard, a frank and generous face, and a 
bearing courtly as that of any lord, with the grasp of his hand and the 
genial smile, no one could doubt the hearty character of the welcome. 
Warm Springs Hotel is famed for the excellence of its cooking, its 
choice service, and the efficiency and politeness of its attendants. It is 
a large, roomy house, with lengthy verandahs fronted by graceful columns 
and overshadowed by noble trees, the time when they were saplings not 
being known to memory. The warm springs from which the resort takes 
its name are numerous, and the flow is copious and inexhaustible. There 
are swimming-pools for gentlemen, for ladies, and for children, and a 
large number of private bath-houses. The temperature of the water as 
it flows from earth's own basins is 98° Fahrenheit, and is so vast in supply 
that the two main swimming-pools are estimated to receive six thousand 

gallons of fresh 
water per minute. 
The mineral con- 
stituents are of 
such strength as 
to cause it to be 
highly beneficial, 
but a due appreci- 
ation of its grate- 
ful effects upon 
wuATb Tilt laacL ui ia.n iJAUKV the system can be 

realized only by experience. The water is used internally as well as exter- 
nally, and is beyond question of the most favorable avail as a remedial agent 
in rheumatism, gout and torpidity of the liver, with their attendant evils 
in the way of indigestion, constipation, paralysis, and other maladies. 

The sight from Warm Spring Mountain is alone a sufficient attraction 
for a month's visit, but the scenes as witnessed from adjacent ridges 




100 Nature's Own Boiliruj. 

and from the high points on everj^ side leave nothing that the most 
exacting could demand. The accommodations at the hotel and surround- 
ing cottages are ample for full}- three hundred people, and during the 
sununer there is not often much space unoccupied. The hunting is par- 
ticularly fine, as also is the fishing, and arrangements are readily made 
by visitors to carry out their fondness for sport to almost any extent. 
The sextet had capital opportunities for testing the claims of this resort 
in the culinary line, and freely acknowledged the fact that they are based 
upon truth. 

The departure was made in good season the following morning, and 
the drive to Hot Springs proved another constant succession of surprises. 
Ill the midst of so many scenes that are always found difficult to transfer 
to paper, and in such a climate with a party so congenial, it was by no 
means the easiest thing in the world to restrain one's feelings and be 
chary of the use of adjectives. The embarrassment of confining language 
to every-day usage can be understood only by those who have been simi- 
larly circumstanced. The .-Esthetic Mrs. Yellowstone had to give up after 
the second day and frankly confess that the apostle of sestheticism him- 
self would in the mountains of Virginia be put to it to coin new phrases. 

Two hours' ride brought the party to Hot Springs, twenty miles from 
Millboro Station, or nineteen miles from Covington. Here again Fairy 
found a resort so different in its general location and its attractions as 
to puzzle him to find new words to tell of them. The ladies, upon 
finding that the natural temperature of the water was higher than that 
at the springs which they had just left, and which led to the one being 
called Warm Springs and the other Hot Springs, became desirous of 
testing the comparative heat. Under the care of an old darky servant, 
■who looked as if she might have served Washington, they crossed the 
lawn to the ladies' plunge. The gentlemen, who had made it a rule 
to indulge in a swim at each of the resorts where there was a pool, 
were nothing loth to accept the kind invitation of the proprietor and 
go with him to the gentlemen's bath. It was a hot one sure enough, 
and Apple Jack, who was the first to divest himself of his clothing and 
take a header, came scrambling out of the water about as lively as 
his nimble legs and supple arms would permit. The natural tempera- 
ture is 110° Fahrenheit, but as there are numerous cold springs it can 
be graduated as desired. Say what scientists will upon the question 
of artificially-heated mineral waters being as efficacious as those that 
are tempered by N.ature herself, the fact will still remain that aside from 
medicinal considerations no heat that can be acquired by man's ingenuity 
will approach the naturally-heated water for a pleasure-bath; and all 
the cosmetics ever compounded by cunning hand cannot compare, for 
the skin, with mineral water of a temperature from 90° to 100°. There 




BBRKFIFY --l 



102 .1 Butli for « Kill,/. 

is a probability that the bather will be inclined to remain in too long 
unless cautioned. The buildings at Hot Springs are of modern erection, 
owing to an extensive fire which occurred six or seven years ago, neces- 
sitating a heavy expense in the work of restoration. The liberality 
and the enterprise of the men who invested their money here are 
everywhere apparent. The location is a charming one, in a little 
pocket in the mountains; the gorges separating these acting as chan- 
nels for the constant play of cool, fresh air. The aspect from either 
hotel or cottage is so varied and so animated that the opportunities for 
special studies are almost endless. From three hundred and fifty to 
four hundred guests can be quite comfortably provided for. Visitors to 
this place who might fancy a change of scene en route should take the 
stage from Millboro on the outward journey, and on the return trip go 
to the railroad by stage to Covington. This will enable them to make 
exactly the circuit gone over by the sextet. Four miles from Hot 
Springs is Healing Springs, and thence to Covington is sixteen miles. 
Between Hot Springs and Healing Springs the stranger is more or less 
likely to become confused; the fact, however, is that the difference in the 
waters of these three resorts consists mainly in the temperature. As has 
already been stated, that at Warm Springs is 98°; at Hot Springs it 
runs as high as 110°, and at Healing Springs it ranges from 85° to 88°, 
and the supply here also is practically inexhaustible. Bright and crys- 
talline the ever-bursting bubbles of gas escape and float in sparkling 
myriads upon its surface. Ben declared that a bath in champagne 
could not be more exhilarating, but as none of the party had ever run 
the slightest risk of immersion in that product of choice vintage there 
was no contradicting the proposition. 

The proprietor at Healing Springs, a son of the noble old gentleman 
at Warm Springs, showed his lineage in his face, and his training was 
gracefully exemplified in his deportment. His invitation to dinner was 
promptly accepted in the same spirit in which it was tendered, but more 
than one half of the« sextet decreed that a plunge should be taken before 
the meal, which was the order of things forthwith, as the rule rigidly 
enforced was that the majority should govern the minority throughout 
the trip. After the experience in the warm and hot baths just visited the 
cooler temperature of the jiool at Healing Springs was decidedly refreshing, 
and it WMs n.,t until alt.T n|,cutrd kncrki.ig .at tlic laili.'s' jin.il that the 
IViiiiiiinc ]i(.ili(iii (if tlic |..-iily r.mlil b<' induced U> l(>a\-r it and proceed 
o dine. The springs arc located on the two gently undulating banks 
of a romantic streamlet which pursues its babbling course through the 
entire grounds. For weakly persons, or those who do not care to tire 
themselves in running <ln\vn hill on one side and ny on the other, a foot- 
bridge was thrown across, the rustic i-onsi rnct ion of which adds to the 



Picturesque B. 



103 




*>r'^ 



^( ii(rdll\ put mosque effect of 
VIC nut \ The cottages are 
for the most part more preten- 
tious in appearance than tliose 
onliridnlj found at the averafft 
resort, tlie laig;er number of 
thorn having roomj galleries 
from which may be obtained views of the tastefully laid out lawns and 
of the mountains which encircle them. There is here almost every 
conceivable form of baths, — hot, cold, plunge, and so on to the end 
of a variety which is limited only by the genius of man 
to devise them. The water is largely impregnated with 
lime, magnesia and iron, with strong traces of several 
other minerals. It is good for almost all the ailments to 
nun IS '.ubioct Ladic s, iiartic ul iih , pationi/e it, 



^:.::^^ 




'm^'^^^^:^- 



1U4 Gobhlv, Gobble. 

owing to its direct influence in clearing and beautifying the complexion. 
Chemical analyses have demonstrated these waters to be almost iden- 
tical with the Schlagenbad and Ems in Germany. Following the ravine 
from the springs it leads to many wild sections, and bold climbers who 
have the nerve to surmount the difficulties attendant upon reaching the 
topmost points of mountain-gorges grow fervid beyond expression over 
the grandeur of the scene on all sides. The hunting is particularly good. 
Apple Jack, in tramping about, scared up three or four flocks of quail 
almost within the grounds, and early that same morning there had been 
a series of exciting tussles between wild and tame turkey gobblers car- 
ried on in full view of those sitting upon the piazza of the hotel. The 
game is but rarely disturbed, and among all the possessions at the springs 
there could not be found shot-gun or rifle. Up in the mountains where 
but few ever penetrate there are bear and deer, and the hunting par- 
ties who occasionally visit there for sport have invariably returned with 
an excellent showing. The pleasantest mode of hunting is on horseback, 
and as there are plenty of animals trained to mountain climbing, those 
who find enjoyment in such. pastimes will discover that opportunities are 
not lacking to indulge in them. There is also excellent fishing in the 
many brooks near by, and the trout, almost strangers to the form of man, 
fall ready victims to his prowess. 

Diverging from Healing Springs the road lay tlirough a fine tract of 
country, now stretching for a mile or two through a valley and now 
wending its way up a sharp acclivity and presenting vistas to the beholder 
that were apparently without limit. The last five miles of the drive was 
the ascent of Mount Jackson and the descent upon the opposite side 
to Covington Station. 

Just before commencing the upward journey there was u curve, and 
around it the carriage rattled merrily, then a longer one, and at a point 
about midway was observed a picture the equal of which can scarcely 
he found anywhere upon the continent, — the Falling Springs. Its name, 
however, conveys but an inadequate conception of its true character. 
From the turn referred to the land runs to the right a short distance and 
then stops abruptly at a sheer precipice. The road leaving the curve 
strikes another which borders upon a dark ravine until the mountain in- 
cline is commenced at the far end. Where the view is grandest there is 
another decisive and almost perpendicular descent to the bottom of the 
iiiiglitv gorge filled with enormous masses of rock, and upon which falls 
the spring-water from its height more than two hundred feet above. The 
line marking the length of the falls was a thousand to fifteen hundred 
feet; and while at some points the water plunged over in huge torrents, 
in other places it foil in thin sheets, and just before reaching the bottom 
broke into an iridescent curtain of spray, producing- extiuisite effects. 



Picturesque B. and 0. 



105 



To contemplate the falls from the road 
is a princely privilege, but the sextet 
remained only a few moments to enjoy 
it, and then one and all went scram- 
bling down the side of the gorge and 
over the rocks below. So indiscrimi- 
nately and thickly had the bowlders 
fallen and the water for many years 
washed over them, and so long had the 
moss carpeted almost every spot where 
it could find root, that to obtain 
good vantage-ground was not an 
easy matter; but at the same time 
the thrilling excitement of the sit- 
uation made one inconsiderate of 
wet feet, soiled clothes, or a gen- 
erally saturated condition. Look- 
ing upward, the enchantment was 
transporting in its inten- 
sity. Yellowstone, well- 
nigh beside himself with -i 
artistic emotions, unhesi- *^ 
tatingly pronounced the 
falls infinitely more beautiful than 
any he had ever looked upon. The 
sight, though less majestic, was in- 
comparably more fascinating to the 
senses than the mighty Ni- 
agara; and while he could 
think of no locality that j 
could do it justice by com- 
parison, it yet reminded 
him of some one of the 
celebrated falls which he 
remembered having seen while 
in Europe. Nothing could be 
more lovely than the sight of 
that serrated, moss-covered wall where 
the water fell in gossamer-like vails 
before it. Everything was clothed 
with the same exuberant raiment of 
radiant, changeable green. It was a 
place where one could spend hours 







■^^ 




QUEENS OF TUK FIELD. 



100 A Rcniarkiihle Place. 

and realize in them only moments of time. The party viewed at one 
instant five distinct rainbows in different portions of these remarka- 
ble falls; and to tell of all the alluring forms taken by the water in its 
downward leap, or of the cascades and pools it subsequently formed, would 
require hours of writing and page after page of type. Even were this 
attempted, it is exceedingly doubtful if the most gifted of descriptive 
writers could do justice to the subject ; and this is not intended as an 
ordinary figuro of speech, but as an absolute conviction. 

The falls iin(|ui'sticinably received the name of Falling Springs from the 
fact that tli(- supiily uf water is not from any stream, neither is it visible 
to the naked eye in appreciable quantity from its source on the ledge 
above. This ledge for some distance is a marsh thickly covered with 
luxuriant undergrowth, and Apple Jack's investigation of it came near 
resulting disastrously. Two or three times he sank to his waist where the 
footing appeared to the eye to be reasonably sure, and once his temerity 
was so great that he actually ventured out upon an immense rock, the bed 
of which was so undermined by the water as to tremble with his weight. 
The explorations of the entire party were attended by more or less of 
discomfort and danger, as the time to take in the situation was compara- 
tively brief, and the determination was to do it all if possible before dark. 
Perhaps no spot in thp mountains of Virginia offers greater interest to 
the scientist and the artist, and to the lover of nature generally, than 
Falling Springs; and it is strange that so wonderful a place has thus far 
been comparatively unknown. It is not difficult of access. Leaving New 
York by the midnight train on the Baltimore and Ohio road, one reaches 
Baltimore the next morning and Falling Springs the same night. The 
best plan tiiat ran be adopted is to go through from Covington by stage 
to Healinn- Sjnin^^s, remain there over night, take carriage next morning, 
and with a good lunch set out to spend the day at Falling Springs, 
returning, should the time be limited, to Covington the same evening in 
time to catch the east-bound train. 

The twilight had so far merged into moonlight that the way back 
up the gorge to the carriage whicli was waiting on the road was rendered 
quite exciting, and was accomplished with no other annoj'ance than damp 
clothes and wet feet. But these inconsiderate things went for naught in 
the summing up of what had been witnessed. The journey to the top of 
the mountain and down the other side was such as to keep to the highest 
tension the spirits of the party. The singing was broken only by .sudden 
bursts of delight at some view disclosed by a turn in the road, the moon- 
light upon the nioiinlain ami upon the liroad, placid surface of Jackson 
River below alTonlin^- siieh tastes of the pieturesque as to most effectually 
do away with all tli.aiglils of the lateness of the hour and the absence of 
supper, 'i'his little disereparu;y was speedily adjusted upon reaching the 



Picturesque B. and O. 




car Tom, having had a choice meal for some time 
prepared, had grown uneasy over the failure of the 
sextet to arrive in season to do it that justice vehich 
its merits demanded. The ladies had stood the extended wagon trip 
without fatigue ; in fact it had done them a world of good, and it was 
amazing how rapidly their plates were cleared of the solids heaped so 
lavishly upon them. The whole party had been much benefited by the 
days spent in the open air, and it would have required no great amount 
of coaxing to obtain a general consent to make the trip right over again. 



108 The Telegraph and the Mails. 

The car was taken that night to Alleghany Station, thirty-six miles 
from Covington, and early the next morning the start was made for Old 
Sweet Springs, — one of the best-known resorts in the country, and which 
for years has been the summer home of many of the distinguished men 
of the South. The ride was one of only ten miles' duration, and as the 
grades were light there was no trouble in making the distance in little 
over an hour. 

Just before reaching Old Sweet, Red Sweet or, as it is now called, 
Sweet Chalybeate Springs was passed, it being the intention to tarry 
there on the return. The location of Old Sweet is in a more open 
country than is generally the rule in mountainous districts, the springs 
themselves flowing from a fertile valley not far from the foot of the 
range. The buildings are of brick and of the most substantial character, 
and one is impressed at the very first sight with the amount of capital 
which must have been invested to secure such results. Some idea of the 
extent of Sweet Springs may be gleaned from the fact that one thousand 
or more guests are readily entertained at a time, and at the height of the 
season it resembles a city in miniature. The lavish expenditure of solid 
wealth is also manifest in the modern improvements that have been made 
here, and it is safe to affirm that in all its appointments nothing is lacking 
that could be desired by the most fashionable seekers for pleasure and 
health. The larger of the buildings extend up to the line of the stage- 
road, and the others are constructed so as to form three sides of a square, 
leaving the thoroughfare open to view from all directions. The bath- 
houses in which are located the gentlemen's and the ladies' swimming- 
pools are of brick, and every facility is afforded for the complete enjoy- 
ment of the water. There are four or five large springs, the temperature 
of which averages 79°. The water is of a tonic character, mildly cathar- 
tic and alterative, and is applicable to cases of debility, to many forms 
of dyspepsia, and functional diseases of the stomach and bowels. There 
is no good reason why any one should suffer from loneliness at Sweet 
Springs. Hops are given every night, and for day amusement there are 
billiards, tenpins, croquet, and possibly at times poker. 

In common with all of the resorts which had been visited, the pres- 
ence of long lines of telegraph poles and wires indicated the facility with 
which guests communicate witli friends in any part of the country. The 
mails arrive at least as often as daily, ami at most of the resorts twice a 
day, morning and afternoon. 

Returning to Sweet Chalybeate Springs, which are a mile nearer 
Alleghany than Old Sweet, the same charming characteristics were obser- 
vable as at other resorts of a similar nature. Though less a.ssuming, 
perhaps, tliau Old Sweet, as the buililings are prineipally <if wood, tliere 
is, nevertiieless, an air i.l' sat isfaet ion and t ranciuillit v pervading;- the i)lace 



Pirturesque B. nnd 0. 




which of itself is restful \ '• - 
to contemplate. The im- ~- 
maculate whiteness of the 
dwellingSjwith their green devil's backbonk. ""- 1^ 

blinds, amid a prodigality 

of the richest foliage; the lawn, with its clean-cut verdure, its lofty trees 
and its graveled walks, and the long rows of cottages on either side, com- 
bine to make a picture which will linger long in the appreciative mind; 
in short he must be a misanthrope who could partake of the treasures 
here held out for his acceptance and derive no profit therefrom. 

Of the offerings at Sweet Chalybeate probably none afford more 
genuine pleasure than the baths, which can be indulged in almost every 



110 Feminine Intrepidity. 

conceivable shape. The swininiing-ijools, as usual, caught the fancy of 
the party. The superabundance of iron in the water led to the naming 
of these springs originally Red Sulphur. The bath gave to the skin a 
smooth, warm glovp, and its tonic effect was at once apparent. The main 
chalybeate spring is one of the most valuable of the kind in the United 
States, and, compared with the noted European springs, is pronounced 
stronger than the Powhon at Spa in Belgium or the Pyrment in West- 
phalia; it is of greater strength than the celebrated Congress Springs at 
Saratoga, and rivals in its qualities High Rock, Washington, Anderson, 
and other well known waters. There are abundant accommodations for 
four hundred and fifty guests; and if all are made the recipients of such 
treatment as that which was accorded to the sextet, they who visit this 
resort are fortunate. The ladies ])artieularly were taken by the reception; 
and the gentlenifii, iil'tci- nn lii<)iiiiiictinn to a young lady who was worthy 
of being pronouncr.l a \iiM;iiiia In Ih-, were induced to spruce up quite 
lively. Statuesque in figure and proportions, her movements were grace 
]iersonified ; her complexion was remarkably pure and fresh, and her 
queenly head was crowned by a wealtii of blonde hair. Attired in black 
velvet, the effect upon susceptibh' vdunu- men — or for that matter upon 
a man of any age — can easily l)c loincivid. This fair lady had presided 
at dinner, at the conclusion of whi.li she- maciously tendered her presence 
as guide to Beaver Dam Falls ami xicinity. Tin- drive was brief, — the 
distance scarcely two miles from \\\>- \\u\i\. The falls, as the name ini- 
])lies, wore ]iriniarily |ir<i(lurcMl liy dams .nctiMl liy 1. ravers; but that was 
many years aii'c), and tlir constaiit iiniiMsi' in t lu' \ nlmiic of water, occa- 
sioned l)y tlie action of tiim- and the Ioiim oI the tailing; stream, has since 
converted the locality into one ol I In- ino^i l.raiitilul ■■xhiliitions of watiT, 
rock and foliage effect to be fiiiind in y.ars of laiiiMinL;-. 'I'iie I'avine 
through which the stream finds its way after its headlong plunge is re- 
plete with startling convulsions of nature, a rare profusion of moss, which 
covers the rocks, trees and pebbly shores alike with its emerald shades, 
.softening the surroundings into rare harmony. The limestone along the 
banks of the stream, whitened by high waters and long exposure to the 
atmosphere, has been crumbling away for ages and now assumes all sorts 
of fantastic shapes. There are caverns, columns, and pendants extending 
from the banks above, in such variety that one could pick out almost 
any fortn tliat the fancy might dictate and call it by a familiar name. 
Fairy's lithe and sprightly companion nearly frightened the wits out of 
him by the bold and fearless ])atlis she sought to reach level ground, and 
(lie A'lrgiiiia lady was not behind liei- in demonstrating a ner\e which dis- 
coiiiited llial of the men-folks. Il was a v.-ry enjoyable afternoon, and 
certainly there was not one of tin- sextet that did not regret the necessity 



Picturesque B. and O. 



Ill 



Back to Alleghany again, the next objective point was the " Saratoga 
of the South," White Sulphur Springs, six miles distant. As tlie resort 
was but a few steps from the railroad depot, a walk of two or three 
minutes brouglit the party to a center of population calculated to render 
one in doubt as to whether he was in a summer resort in the midst of the 
Alleghany Mountains or in a citj' of considerable magnitude. There 
were at the time of arrival upward of eighteen hundred guests, and yet 
there appeared to be room for all, and everj-body full of enjoyment, than 
which nothing could be more satisfactory. There was enough of style 
and fashion to please the most ardent devotee; there were flirtations 
and promenades up and down the length of the piazzas; there were joy- 
ful greetings, bright glances, and hearty ejaculations of pleasure; there 
were beaux in spike-tailed coats and faultless shirt-fronts, belles in trail- 
ing silks and satins, business men in Derby hats and cutaway coats, 
mothers in stiff and stately brocades, sons in corduroy suits, huntsmen in 
top-boots, old gentlemen in broad-brimmed beavers and ample waistcoats, 
young girls sweet and pretty as pinks in their fast-developing woman- 
hood, and last, but by no means least, the inevitable boy. Cosmopolitan 
is the word by which the company at White Sulphur may best be de- 
scribed; but it must not be understood Jfrom this that the term is intended 
to convey the impression that this character indicated any less tone and 
standing in life than is found in the first circles of society. When White 
Sulphur is spoken of as the Saratoga of the South, it is meant not only 
that its springs rival those of the famous Nortliern resort, hut also that in 
wealth, in fashion and in culture it- cannot be surpassed. 

White Sulphur is preeminently a fashionable summer home of the 
first families, but its hospitality is not now, as of yore, confined to those 
of the South. One who has an extensive acquaintance west and nortii as 
well as south 
may here see 





society array ^^J^' *^?-^a__^^^*' " — l^'^^^^^ o '"j^ 
themselves in 
gorgeous rai- 
ment three to five times a day, each advent presenting new fascinations 
of style, shade and fabric: the gallants of the sterner sex don breakfast, 
dinner, supper and ball-room garb. Thus fashion's votaries pass the 



112 Biped and Quadruped. 

summer months as though they were but weeks. Others play at cards, 
billiards or tenpins, or they may vary the programme with drives or tours 
up the valley or over the mountains. The hour that all meet for a single 
purpose is that for the bath, which restores freshness to the complexion, 
and lends new life and unstinted capacity to enjoy it. Children have just 
as good a time as their seniors at White Sulphur, the extent of the 
grounds and the unrestricted use of legs and lungs enabling them to 
make days pass joyously, and causing them to regret that terrible period 
in early existence when school commences again. The dining-room is a 
sight at the noonday meal. The sextet, stationed at one of the openings 
leading out upon the porch, witnessed fifteen hundred people dining at 
the same time. It would be unnecessary to enter into details by giving a 
description of the buildings, or by extolling the high standard of the man- 
agement and the first-class attributes of the place as a whole, because these 
are evidenced by its line of patronage. The water of the main spring 
is, as the name of the resort indicates, largely sulphur, but there are 
other springs of various kinds, and one has simply to follow his inclina- 
tions and drink or bathe as best pleases him. The elevation is some two 
thousand feet above the level of the sea, and the temperature during 
the hottest periods rarely exceeds 75°, the average ranging between 60° 
and 7<i^. Extensive additions have been planned and perfected whereby 
till' fariliii.s of the hotel will be ample for receiving twenty-five hundred 
guests. ()f iitlier features added is the mile track, which veteran follow- 
ers of the turf declare has hardly its equal in the country. Numerous 
running and trotting meetings are being arranged, and the new course 
promises e.xciting contests, in which the first of the land, both biped and 
quadruped, will participate. 

Seventeen miles from White Sulphur Station on the railroad is Fort 
Springs Station; thence fourteen miles by stage is Salt Sulphur Springs, 
the location of which is grand in the e.xtreme, and the water lias for a 
number of years been well known. 

Red Sulphur Springs, another noted resort in the Valley, is reached by 
rail to Lowell Station, twenty-nine miles from Fort Springs, and thence 
fourteen miles by stage. The Red Sulphur water is a widely celebrated 
specific for all forms of pulmonary disease, and these springs are fast 
becoming the Mecca of consumptives. The appointments at the hotel are 
first-class and are equal to entertaining fully three hundred persons. 

The Valley resorts visited by the party are all within a day's ride from 
Harper's Ferry. Visitors from New York and Eastern points find it 
most advantageous to take the midnight express on the Baltimore and 
Oliio, thus having sleeping and parlor cars to destination. Philadelphia 
visitors also prefer tliis iijoht train. Baltimore and Washington passen- 
gers have Ml) necessity lor sleepinji' ears, as trains with parlor cars attached 



Picturesque B. and 0. 



113 




lt.a\c on tlif B 
and O at con 
\enient hoius 
\n the morning to arrnt 
at the resoits during the 
same day or evening As 
all fast trains run through 
1 Harper's Ferry, travelers from the West expe- 

"^ rience no difficulty, every facility being afforded for mak- 

ing prompt connection. Those who may have occasion 
If- i to look up railroad guides to ascertain the hours of 

%- — i travel necessary to make a trip to the Virginia Valley 

should take the time to Harper's Ferry and add from 
one to eight hours, — the latter the time of the run to White Sulphur. 
The distance by stage from point to point has been given in each instance; 
and while the guides are handy for those familiar with their pages, to 
others who are unaccustomed to them the necessity for a long and tedious 
search will be obviated if, in wishing to make a close estimate of the 
extent of the journey, they will but remember or refer to the data already 
given in this publication; a careful reading of which will also enable those 
who may desire to lay out a tour of the Valley to find opportunities for 
doing so to the best advantage. Many people prefer a month or two 
spent in this way to remaining all the time at any one place. No trouble 
is met with in stopping off on the line of railroad, as stop-over privileges 
are granted, the only requisite being timely notice to the train conductor 
that it is desired to leave the cars at a given point. 

During the season the Baltimore and Ohio issues round-trip tickets to 
all of the resorts referred to at much less than the rates usually charged. 
These tickets include stage fare, and are ordinarily made good say from 
the first day of June to the first day of October. 



114 I'^eMlp It Himself. 

The tour of the sextet throughout the Valley was made precisely as 
narrated; hence any who may propose to plan a similar trip, either in 
whole or in part, may rely upon the accuracy of the information herein 
given. One can spend weeks or months in this manner, as time or incli- 
nation may dictate, remaining one, two, three days or a week at each 
resort. As a matter of course those who wish to stay during the summer 
months have the privilege of so doing. To fully appreciate the richness 
and grandeur of pictorial nature in this portion of the country the former 
is by all odds the best mode that can be devised; in which case it should 
not be forgotten to embrace as a first point either Rock Enon, Capon, 
Orkney or Rawley. The reader, however, having by this time learned of 
the attractions of the Valley, may make his own choice. 

White Sulphur Springs, — the terminus of the trip up the Valley as 
originally planned by the Four, — the car was switched to the north- 
bound track, and the run made through to Harper's Ferry direct. 



ON THE MAIN LINE. 



Leaving Harper's Ferry, the road follows closely the line of the river, 
affording a series of panoramic views of foliage, cascades and mountain- 
heights. The Potomac, with its tranquil, lake-like surface, broadens 
out to the width of half a mile or more, and looks so enticing as to 
make one wish to tarry awhile and ply the oar Ln its limpid waters. 
The grade increases perceptibly and the iron horse breathes more sten- 
toriously. Six miles and Shenandoah Junction is reached, at which 
point the car was taken to Luray Cave, sixty-six miles to the south. 
The surprise of the party upon arriving at the cave and finding a hotel 
— a very pattern of ornate architecture — was genuine, the ladies making 
no effort to restrain their pleasure when once within its walls. Luray 
Inn, as it is called, cost something over fifty thousand dollars, and the 
great taste everywhere displayed proved that those who had the handling 
of the money disbursed it not only intelligently but with the highest 
regard for artistic surroundings. Wilton carpets, immense mirrors, furni- 
ture of elaborate patterns, and hangings of sumptuous texture that would 
enrapture an aesthete. The cave itself is but a short distance from the 
hotel, and once within its portals a new and peculiar existence is expe- 
rienced, the strange fascination of which does not dcjiart until, again in 
the sunshine, one is restored to a uornial conditinn. Luray (,'ave is 




remarkable for its forms of stalagmite 

and stalactite, which latter is of great 

delicacy of shape, and is unique beyond 

comparison. Mammoth Cave may be 

larger, but its attractions by no means 

compare with those of Luray; and while 

one may get his fill of the unearthly at 

the former in a day, it is no uncommon 

thing for tourists to remain at the latter, 

for daily visits to the cave, for a week or 

^)1!^^A^lj/1C^= ">ore. The introduction of the electric 

E=2S_= — lirriC — .^ , T jjg]^^ within the caverns has been produo- 

cucuMBEB FALLS. ^-^^ ^f woudcrful results, some of the 

larger openings presenting spectacles which only the inspired hand of 

Dor6 could reproduce. The passage-ways are well planned and kept in 

good condition, and hence there is no necessity for any one to suffer from 



116 A Will and a Way. 

dampness, the use of the rubber wraps provided being all that is neces- 
sary to insure dryness. The party strolled in and about this weird place 
for hours. The ejaculations of the feminine members of the sextet, had 
they been treasured up, would have made the fortune of an emotional 
actress. The masculine representatives were, for that matter, but little 
behind them, and when the party of six sat down for a lunch by the shores 
of Broddus Lake, that portion of the cave resounded with the echoes of 
the animated conversation which all essayed to carry on at once. 

Luray Cave has created much interesting inquiry and discussion 
among scientists, its geological features affording a basis for studies and 
theories of an important character. Those who have a taste for such dis- 
cussions, and who desire to be fully informed of the various interests in 
and about these caverns, will be pleased with an article in one of the lead- 
ing monthly magazines of recent issue. There is also in existence a report 
of a visit to the cave by certain officials of the Smithsonian at Washing- 
ton, which can doubtless be obtained by addressing that institution. 

Upon the return of the party to Shenandoah Junction the ladies were 
forced by maternal duties to return to their homes, and the severance of 
the associations of the preceding two weeks was anything but pleasant 
to contemplate. 

Three miles west of Shenandoah Junction is Kearneysville, — the point 
Lee's corps passed on the march to Antietam. The river had been left 
to the right some time before reaching the junction, and now the way 
lay through a section of the Valley of the Virginia, its high cultivation, 
substantial homes and well-kept fields indicating a prosperity of many 
years' continuance. The historic town of Martinsburg is soon reached. 
Here but few of the scars left by the direful ravages of the war are now 
visible. It was at Martinsburg that occurred the wholesale destruction 
of raih'oad property by Stonewall Jackson. After battering out of all 
former semblance such machinery as he could not make use of, and burn- 
ing the coaches, cars and buildings, .lackson determined upon carrying 
away with him si.x or eight of the B. and O. engines. The familiar remark 
to the effect that a man would carry off a red-hot stove if it were not for 
the difficulty in handling it would seem to apply to the making off with 
half-a-dozen locomotives with no rail upon which to run them. This obsta- 
cle, however, did not deter Stonewall from getting away with the locomo- 
tives, one of his officers so rigging them up that powerful teams managed 
to pull them back through the country to a railway line in possession of 
the Confederates, upon which tiiey were placed and used during the war. 
This same officer, who accomplished results which hardly any other man 
would have thought of as practical, was afterward the Master of Transpor- 
tation of the road from which he coiifiscatecl the engines. Martinsburg is 
now a lively, prosperous town. Large repair-sliops are located here; it is 



Picturesque B. and 0. 






also the termi- 




nus of the first 




division of the 


^^^ 


road. Gliding 
slowly onward 


^..1 ' > . 


from the laby- 



[AKD ROAD TO TKAVEL. 



<, rinth of rail- 

road appurte- 
nances, it was 
■ ^ not very long 

ere the train 
was enveloped 
in the shadow 
of North Mountain, whose rocky face and cloud-capped summit had been 
gradually growing nearer. Piercing its base with a swift run through a 
deep cut. Back Creek was crossed, the angry stream rushing through its 
pent-up channel under the frown of the high, overhanging cliff. Another 
dash through narrow ledges of rock and the scene changes as if by magic. 
In place of the somber fronts of granite there lies open to the view, smil- 
ing and basking in the warm sunlight, the brightest of landscapes. Again 
the Potomac comes as a wel- 
come friend, its mantling wa- 
ters flashing like diamonds. 
Beyond the river, high on a 
noble hill, stands a stone in- 
closure, a relic of frontier de- 
fenses in 1755. Fort Fred- 
erick now serves as a capital 
place for cattle to sun them- 
selves in, the rude barn built 
at one end affording shelter 
in inclement weather. Run- 
ning to the river bank so close 
that the polished surface re- 
flects the train as it passes, its 
varied flow attracts admira- 
tion, and the series of whirl- 
pools are almost bewildering- 
when one attempts to trace 
their sinuosities. On either 
side the mountains seem to 
draw nearer and nearer until 
the way ahead appears as if 




118 Revolutionary TimeK. 



to human passage. At Hancock it is only a little over three miles 
to the Pennsylvania Line ; but it is a very rugged three miles, as Round 
Top mountain intervenes. This is almost one mass of mighty upheavals. 
The volcanic action in this immediate section must at some time or other 
have been terrific, as the dip in the strata changes abruptly, rearing up 
almost from the water's edge and presenting an outline of exceeding 
roughness. The shapes taken at times are strikingly uncouth, exhibiting 
scraggy, inharmonious features which impart a strange air to the sur- 
njundings. But for the luxuriant foliage one might suppose himself 
above timber line in the rookies, so barren are the cliffs and bleak their 
attributes. A little farther on and there is an entire transformation of 
the scene. The mountains are banked with thickly growing trees, and 
their crests, plainly marked, intermingle with happy effect. The railroad 
embankment meets the Potomac at its base, which, however, is hidden 
under the teeming clumps of vines and evergreens that bend symmetrically 
over the stream and gain double beauty by the perfect reproduction. The 
Potomac here has narrowed and its depth has become greatly increased. 
Swaying around curve after curve the train hugs the river for miles, the 
mountains meantime growing more graceful, the foliage richer, and the 
blending of colors that which only the hand of Nature can perfect. 

At Sir John's Run, so named from its once having been the headquar- 
ters of Sir John Sinclair, General Braddock's quartermaster, in Revolu- 
tionary times, stages leave for Berkeley Springs, which is two miles dis- 
tant. The immediate surroundini^s of Sii- John's Run are of a highly 
inviting character, the river and tin- mountains, together with the pretty 
little station-house, combining to make a picture perfect in all its details. 
The road to Berkeley was up the mountain half the way and down the 
other half. This is one of the oldest springs in the Alleghany range, 
liMviuii' long years ago been favored by the Washingtons, the Fairfaxes, 
anil other families of historic fame. Aside from the capacious hotel 
buildings, the lawn studded with stately elms, the bath-houses nestling 
beneath the overhanging trees, and the happily-situated cottages, Berke- 
ley's location, with the gifts bestowed upon it by Nature, is alone worthy 
of remark. Yet not in tliis iustancr is it true that Nature unadorned 
is most adorned, for human skill and inucrniity liave been exercised to 
enhance the beauty of tlir plair with the best possible success. From 
the road as one descemis tln' uiouutain the ilcll in \\lii<'li the structures 
have been reared appoais to be liardly anv larger than the |iaini of the 
hand, and, contrastcil with tlie groat face of the range which locks the 
valley in close cinluaci', the simile is relatively sustained. The volume 
and unceasing supply o|' water at these springs are remarkable. The dis- 
charge is froni no h'ss than live principal sources, In-sides nunuuvius trib- 
utary ones, and is u]i\vai-d of two thousaml gallons per minute. It is clear 



Picturesque B. and 0. 




MOUTH OF INDIAK CREEK. 



and crystalline, tasteless, and of a uniform and invariable temperature 
of 74° Fahrenheit. Its medicinal properties are of such a high and un- 
equivocal standard that the state went to a large expense in fitting up 
bath-houses and providing them with every known appurtenance for se- 
curing the greatest benefit from their use. Any form of bath may be 
taken as best suits the bather. There are stone swimming-pools of large 
dimensions both for ladies and gentlemen, the supply being so vast that 
virtually each person has fresh water, and always at a normal tempera- 
ture. There are also a dozen or more private baths, ten feet by four 
and five feet deep, for gentlemen; and as many are furnished for the 
use of ladies. The component parts of the water from the main springs 
are carbonate of lime, crenate, iron, chloride of sodium, calcium, sulphate 
of magnesia and silicate of lime. There are also springs largely impreg- 
nated with sulphur, offering a fine tonic for drinking or for bathing. The 



120 Washington and Walton. 

scene during the morning at Berkeley, when the baths are mostly in use, 
is full of animation. The intermingling branches of the lofty trees by 
which the bath-houses are surrounded serve to temper the sun's rays into 
a grateful coolness which is welcomed upon the greensward beneath. 
Hammocks are swung from tree to tree, and it is refreshing to see how 
thoroughly they are enjoyed by the ladies who dangle to and fro in them. 
Snugly ensconced in comfortable high-back chairs other guests luxuriate, 
and all around and about are children as blitliesome as larks and as frolic- 
some as kittens. The steady lines of bathers continue to pour in and 
out, and over in the pagoda the band sends forth the sweetest of music. 
If any one can imagine a more restful and wholesome atmosphere he is 
really to be congratulated. Seated upon the lawn and looking to the 
right of the bath-houses one can see through the trees the tall, white 
pillars of the main hotel, which invitingly proclaim the enjoyments that 
are offered within to those who desire to partake of them after the sun 
has gone down on the recreations of the day. One of the boasts of 
Berkeley is its cuisine, and its table is noted throughout the East for 
its high standard of excellence. The accommodations are upon an exten- 
sive scale, and at the height of the season Berkeley is a very animated 
and brilliant resort. Balls are given nightly, and the social attractions 
are all that the most fastidious could wish. The air during the hottest 
summer weather is pure and salubrious, the temperature rarely if ever 
reaching high figures, and the nights are ever such as to require blankets 
to render sleep agreeable. During the proper season the hunting about 
Berkeley is fine, deer, wild turkey, pheasant, partridge, and other game 
abounding. Fishermen have the mountain-streams near by where they 
can tempt trout with fly, and a distance of two miles brings them to the 
Potomac, than which for black-bass fishing there are no better waters on 
the continent. 

From Sir John's Run it is three miles to the crossing of the Cacapon, 
a fleet-flowing stream which empties into the Potomac in full view from 
the train. Looking toward the mouth the vista is one of splendor, while 
up stream the eye is nearly dazed with the transitions of color produced 
by the unrestrained vegetation which masses in glorious contrasts to the 
water's very edge. 

A short distance from the bridge is Cacapon Station, which is the 
objective point during the fishing season of Washington's devoted dis- 
ciples of Walton. To the right a laminated avenue of oaks and elms 
leads to the great dam that here spans the Potomac, and forms during 
the early spring months a series of falls which almost rival Niagara in 
volume and force of descent. Below the dam the river has been clogged 
up with prodigious rocks, upon which the Svaters dash, scattering their 
silver spray in every direction. To the very heart of this moisture-laden 



Picturesque B. and O. 



121 



atmosphere the daring fishermen penetrate, and from the seething crest of 
the rapids lift many a fat bass. It is not a fit place for a tyro of the rod 
and line, as it requires the greatest skill in landing a fish upon the slippery 
rocks, where only the nimble-footed can find standing room, to say nothing 
of making a cast. Above the dam the river, stopped short in its rush to 
the sea, expands into majestic proportions, and presents a face without 
break or ripple. Its depth here is probably greater than at any other 
point, and boats and barges are easily propelled for a mile or two up 
stream. On the opposite side of the river, not far from the station, is the 
house of the Washington Fishing Club, an organization which includes 
among its members several leading government officials and gentlemen in 
private life possessed of such means as to enable them to enjoy sport 
without stint and entertain friends right royally. The location of this 
resort is in unison with the country ^m^^^ it overlooks 

being upon an elevation high /»H^Mrak»^ above the 




PALISADES OF THE POTOMAC. 



122 From the Club- House. 

stream and surrounded by noble old trees. From the porch of the 
Club-house the aspect is one to be remembered : the long, swelling, 
grass-carpeted slope ending at the bank of the canal, the gleaming white 
tow-path of which stands out in bold relief ; then a narrow stretch of 
ground from which droop graceful vines that bend over and bathe them- 
selves in the waters of the Potomac. On the opposite side of the river 
the foliage of the trees and vines together is so compact as to cast deep 
shadows upon the limpid stream. Beyond this lovely green wall is 
seen the rocky roadbed of the B. and O., its glittering steel bands skirt- 
ing cliffs whose bleak and bare front shows where they had been torn 
asunder by man to make way for the locomotive. Cresting the ragged 
despoliation are the firmly-rooted pines, which extend to the very top of 
the mountains, where clouds hang low and render hazy and indistinct the 
outline of the distant range. 

The stop at Caoapon was necessarily brief, and the signal was given to 
start. The engineer kindly held in his iron horse so that the stride by the 
side of the stream was measured and slow, and a comprehensive view of 
the beauty of the valley thus obtained. As the pace was gradually 
increased it seemed as if nothing could be more graceful than the 
swinging bends which the line of the road takes in following the river 
to Cumberland. At times the Potomac would almost disappear, and it 
would seem as if the mountains had closed in so sharply as to check the 
flow of the river and force it in an opposite direction; then would come a 
lengthy sweep to the right or to the left, and there again would be seen 
the bright face of the crystal water, picturing to the most minute details 
the shrubs, trees, rocks and mountains which flank it on either side. Now 
the valley would appear to widen out, disclosing charming little patches 
of land clad in its summer verdure, and again the way would be closely 
walled on either side by rocky cliffs, looming up to such a height as to 
prevent the sun from sending his warm rays down to the water-side, and 
leaving above only a clear strip of blue sky. Just beyond the south 
branch of the Potomac is seen the historic Cresap Mountain, where in 
1750 the youthful Washington, then a civil engineer, spent much time in 
making surveys for Lord Fairfax. Now the mountain range is locally 
known as " Knobly," so named from its exceedingly rough appearance. 
Isolated cones jut out boldly against the cloudless sky, taking odd shapes 
and suggesting a realization of the days when giants were supposed to 
have peopled the land. Vegetation that elsewhere finds the sustenance 
which gives to it the perfect hues of unrestricted growth here droops 
and dies, finding a last resting-place on barren rock, or limp and lifeless 
fringing the craggy ledges. 

Crossing Patterson's Creek the first sight is obtained of the striking 
gap in the mountains just beyond Cumberland. As seen from the train 



Picturesque B. and O. 




' the rent in the ridge is so plainly 

defined as to cause one to shudder at the 
thoufrht of the awful eonvulbion.s of nature 
which ])roduced it. From the right the eye ->i1 

follows along the line of the mountain to - -'j^Sl 

this abrupt break, which in the distance --^^"J' 

appears to be only of such width that a boy might " '• 

easily cast a stone from one side to the other. To the 

left the crests are as vividly portrayed, the clear air adding distinctness 
to the outline, and anew the sharp declivity is repeated, the rift in the 
towering range looking as if some superhuman hand had wielded the 
instrument which rent in twain the sister masses of granite. At North 
Branch, six miles from Cumberland, the railroad once more spans the 
river, and the train bowls merrily along over the soil of " Maryland, my 
Maryland ! " to Cumberland. 

The B. and O. has demonstrated what liberality and good judgment 
will accomplish in making travel by rail pleasant to the eye and grateful 
to the senses. Here is the grand hotel, the " Queen City," built by the 
Company, and many a city whose population is quadruple can boast of 
no such hostelry. The architecture is an ornate mingling of stone and 



124 27«' Inner M,in. 

brick, and in front as well as at the ends the verandah overlooks a notice- 
ably artistic display of landscape gardening. Broad stone walks are laid 
from the tracks to the hotel, curbed by foliage-plants, and in every way 
made pleasing to the eye and the senses alike. The spacious dining-room 
within the building and the private apartments upstairs are fitted up with 
every modern convenience and furnished after a manner that would not 
reflect discredit on a metropolitan house. 

The elevation of Cumberland is a thousand feet or more above the 
level of the sea, and the air is therefore necessarily pure and sweet. This, 
in connection with the scenery in the vicinity, whicii is exceedingly fine, 
renders this resort of considerable importance in the summer season. 
From a commercial standpoint the city ranges second in the State of 
Maryland, its coal interests being of great magnitude. Railway tracks 
are laid throughout the coal district, and mining is carried on very exten- 
sively, the supply showing no signs of exhaustion. The coal is shipped in 
large quantities to New York and the New England cities, and to all the 
Atlantic States; in fact it is largely exported to the West Indies and the 
eastern and western coasts of South America. It is also sent in almost, if 
noi i|iiii. , 1 .|ual quantities to Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and other Western 
Stales, 1. u manufacturing purposes. The Cumberland coal-field is fifty 
miles in length and four to six miles in width. On the other side of the 
mountains are the Clarksburg, Fairmont, Grafton and Newburg coal- 
basins, of unlimited extent, furnishing employment to thousands of miners 
and millions of dollars' worth of business animally for the railroad com- 
pany. Owing to the B. and O. penetrating this vast section of coal de- 
posits its fuel is obtained at figures far below those secured by other trunk 
lines, and as a consequence the road is operated at a correspondinglv If.ss 
expense. 

Cumberland is one of the most important points on the road, and the 
company has large interests here, it being the center of several impor- 
tant departments of its management. The dining-halls along the route, 
as previously stated, are owned and operated by the Company ; and 
at the Queen City hotel are the headquarters of the superintendent, 
who by the way is an old New York hotel man of large experience and 
well-earned popularity. Possibly no accommodations afforded by railway 
lines require more careful and close attention than the dining-halls, and 
to manage them so that all classes of passengers are gratified is something 
to be ])roud of. The sagacious course of the company in placing their 
dining-halls under the superintendency of a man who has learned from 
experience how to keep a hotel is demonstrated in the high reputation 
they have earned. The object is not .so much to make a profit on tlie 
meals that are served as to insure the comfort and the pleasure of the 
patrons of the road. Were the eating-houses under the control of outside 



1;>6 l>ln-i,i,i-ll,tlh II nd Dinbuj-Vars. 

parties they would, as a matter of course, be compelled to manage them 
so that they would yield an income which should be a suitable reimburse- 
ment for the time and labor expended in their maintenance. But in the 
case of the Company this is not an absolute requirement, as the revenue 
derived from the increased business on the road where passengers are fully 
satisfied with the attention which they receive in the matter of accommo- 
dations more than compensates for any lack of actual profit in the hotels 
themselves. The dining-cars, also owned and managed by the Company, 
may be classed in the same category, the determination being to insure 
perfect contentment even at the expense of the entire amount received for 
the food served. The quartet tested the table at Queen City at supper- 
time, and the result was that Tom was notified that he need not prepare 
breakfast in the car. 



THE YOUGHIOGHENY. 



Early the following morning the car was shifted over to the tracks of 
the Pittsburgh Division of the B. and O. preparatory to the run through 
the Youghiogheny and Monongahela valleys to the " Smoky City." Hardly 
had the corporate limits been passed before the train was within the 
walls of Will's Mountain Gap, which was first seen in the distance when 
crossing Patterson's Creek. The Gap, which seven miles away had capti- 
vated the attention of every beholder, appeared to magnificent advantage 
as the threshold was ^ipproached. Here the creek contributes its quota to 
the general view, rushing- through the mountain as it does in ungovernable 
haste to empty itself into the Potomac. On either hand the cliffs tower 
as it were into the clouds, their liiirs broken by ponderous ledges of 
rock over which hang trailing vines, nml from whicli jut lean, lank and 
almost leafless pines, some bent over ap])arently from age and others, 
as it would seem, from lightning-stroke, which in its furious career down 
tlie rocky walls had blasted granite, tree and shrub, leaving naught but 
wreck and scarred remnants in its track. On the very edge of one of the 
highest of these projections some courageous hand has planted an observa- 
tory, the framework of wliich from below seemed too frail to sup]iort the 
weight of a chilil. l'"roin this elevation the outlook must lie intensely 
interesting, as it couimarids a \ iew eastward of twenty miles oi- luoi'e, and 
westward, possibly, lo even a ar-eatei- distance. 

Leaving the (ia]) the road li'ads out into a i -e open country, crossing 



Picturesque B. and O. 



127 



at frequent intervals little streams, each of them a study, and passing a 
peculiar formation of rock, the strata of which fully demonstrati; the vio- 
lence of the volcanic action that threvF it into its present position upon 
end. The jaggedness of its edge led to its name, "The Devil's Backbone." 
Dashing through Sand Patch tunnel, which is at an elevation of 
twenty-three hundred feet, sunlight at the other end discloses the first 
view of Casselman's River, with banks at times pastoral and then grow- 
ing more wild as the Youghiogheny is approached. For mile upon mile 
the road follows a ledge cut into the mountain side, and from here the 
passenger looks away down upon the whirling rapids; and the thought 
was painful of what might have been the consequences had some of the 
great bowlders, — and there are many of them in the waters, — become 
dislodged and, rolling down, obstructed the train in its swift career. 
The way through the valley is one of curves and long, sweeping turns; 
but so firm is the rock ballast of the track, and so smooth is the sev- 
enty-pound steel rail with which it is laid, that one notices the angles 
only as they open up new and wilder views of all that is fascinating in 
Nature in the way of mountain, and valley, and forest, and river. As 
one turns from the vista that lies before him and permits his gaze to 
alight upon the monstrous rocks clogging up the stream the eye in- 
voluntarily roams back over the country just traversed, and he must 
needs be a writer of niarkod ikiwit who could britiir the sia-lit (" tlip 




Ittll AT UKEK 



I;i8 Tumbled to It. 

full realization of the reader. All along the valley the mountains which 
horn it in restrict the waters until they increase in fury sufficient to burst 
any ordinary barriers. In the centuries agone there evidently must have 
been such a rock-rolling in this vicinity as to shake the earth to its very 
axis. Many of these ponderous bowlders have tumbled thousands of feet 
to the bed of the stream, and are almo.st mountains in themselves; others 
have so long been subjected to the action of the water that their edges 
have been rounded to a symmetry of form closely assimilating the work 
of the artisan. Gradually the aspect of nature grows in a measure less 
wild, and valleys are introduced, giving the scene something of a pastoral 
appearance. 

At Meyersdale a branch diverges to the Salisbury coal-basin, which so 
far as developed gives not the slightest indication of lessening in supply. 
From Meyersdale on to Rockwood is a famous dairy region, butter being 
manufactured in large quantities and shipped not only to Washington and 
Baltimore but as far oast as New York, where in the market it ranks as 
"gilt-edged." Rockwood is the starting-point of the Somerset and Cam- 
bria Branch extending to Johnstown, the location of the noted Cambria 
Steel and Iron Works, the great bulk of the production of which is sent 
over this branch of the Pittsburgh Division. Speeding on to Ohio Pyle 
a stop is made for the night. The buildings at this resort, while in a 
measure commodious, are by no means as extensive as the location justi- 
fies, for there are but few places in the mountains combining so many 
attractions as this. The hotel grounds are only a few steps from the 
depot, and upon a gently rising elevation which forces the Youghiogheny 
to change its course abruptly to the south. The houses are erected 
upon the highest knoll, which had been cleared for them for some dis- 
tance around, and converted into a lawn flanked on two sides by a forest 
and on another by the river, while tiie remaining side is walled in by the 
mountain-ridge. One may imagine from this slight sketch what such a 
location must be, but when the falls, the steady roar of which is always 
distinct, is added to it, there could be no cause for surprise that the reader 
should wish himself there. Were the wish gratified he would have tlie 
pleasure of seeing the Youghiogheny rushing and tumbling tempestuously 
over the ledge of rocks to the granite masses below, a distance of nearly 
a hundred feet. It is no puny, trickling stream, but the tremendous cata- 
ract, five hundred feet across, that dashes against the projecting rocks in 
its descent and flies off in fantastic shapes of spray. The whole body of 
the Youghiogheny here pitches over the precipice, and to say that it 
seems to boil with rage, or that it writhes and fumes to a white heat, is to 
express but feebly the whirling cauldron below. On one side the mount- 
ains exhibit a slio(>r height of hundreds of feet, and on the other is a 
romantic olil mill, age-worn and iimss-covered, and of that fashion of eon- 



Picturesque B. and 0. 



struction which artist's ej^es love to behold. 

But a solitarj' vehicle and one horse could 

be found at Ohio Pyle, the bringing out 

of which so played upon the feelings 

of the quartet that it was decided 

to proceed at once on foot to 

Cucumber Falls, which was 

situated high up among ^^ 

the hills, so that no ' - 




GARUETT C0T1 U f 

DEtR PARK 



one horse 
could safely 
be relied up- 
on to convey the 
part\ thither In- 
structions \\ere, how- 
ever, lett lor the ariver 
to bring the quartet back, 
as it was down-grade the en- 
tire distance. Though something 
of a climb, and rather hard on the 



130 The FalUng Cucumber. 

Fairy's corporosity, the physical exertion of the trip was more than com- 
pensated. On the road Yellowstone dallied to sketch a rustic structure 
bridging the rivulet that danced its way to the Youghiogheny, and just 
above this the old tannery long since passed into decay. The brido-e 
the dilapidated buildings, the narrow gorge, and the woods, made a sturdy 
for a sketch not to be passed over by the artistic eye. From this spot the 
hard, stony roadway led directly up the ascent to the summit, and from 
here the route down to the falls was such that persons of weak nerves 
would hardly dare attempt it. A well-beaten path denotes the point where 
the road is to be left for the descent. Hand in hand the quartet scram- 
bled over fallen trees and projecting crags to the bottom; and once there, 
the query was — at least the fat man of the coterie thought so — how in 
the world to get back again. But such trifling considerations soon faded 
out m the presence of the falling waters. 

The geological characteristics of Cucumber Falls are remarkable, the 
surface of the earth having apparently sunk abruptly two hundred feet or 
more and left the adjacent country high and dry. The water forming the 
cascade comes down the defile gently at first, but increases in turbulence 
and velocity with the greater ruggedness of the chasm. The volume varies 
at different seasons of the year: in the autumn there is just sufficient to 
compose a filmy, nebulous screen, with a fringe as of floss silk. Above 
all is sunshine; below it is dark and dank as a cavern. A wilder or more 
uncouth region than this could hardly be imagined, but the inspiration 
which attaches to the sight effectually supplants any feeling of dread that 
might otherwise come over the beholder, who, though he may have seen 
the Alleghanies in their numerous aspects, finds so much of novelty here 
that his stay is generally prolonged until wet clothes predicate the desira- 
bility of more hospitable quarters. It would doubtless take a week's dili- 
gent rambling to ferret out the places in and about Ohio Pyle that would 
well repay exertion to discover. But all were ready to return to the hotel- 
and after a severe tug back to the road, and waiting some time for the 
one-horse show to make its appearance, the party jogged down the hill, 
coming upon the vehicle about half-way, the driver belaboring the poor 
beast, and the latter paying about as much attention to it as if he had 
been a mule. Now was Ben's golden opportunity to exhibit his fitness 
for any emergency. He was big enough and strong enough to almost 
carry the horse himself, and when he caught hold of the lines and lay back 
the obstinate equine concluded that he was willing to proceed Then 
there was a down-hill trot that few would care to experience a second 
time. In exact ratio to his disinclination to go up hill that horse went 
down hill, the quartet jumbled up with the driver and holding on for dear 
iile. Just before reaching the hotel there was something of an ascent 
and here the difficulty was to keep from sliding out of the wagon at the 



132 Romance and Radliy. 

rear end, the old nag still giving evidence of direct descent from a racing 
family. There vpas no end of fun in the helter-skelter jaunt, and the 
buxom maidens by the wayside, with whom Ben made some attempt to 
flirt, looked as if they had unexpectedly come upon a Zoo turned loose. 

That night a run was made up the road nine miles to the mouth of 
Indian Creek, where it empties into the Youghiogheny. The air was 
balmy and pure, and the perfect stillness was broken only by the sub- 
dued murmurs of the locomotive as it stood upon the track. The twinkle 
of a light could be dimly seen upon the mountain in the distance, its only 
companion in all the darkness being the flicker from the windows of the 
station-house. Soon the impenetrable gloom beyond the mountain-tops 
gave place to streaks of softly-shaded light becoming gradually brighter 
and brighter as the queen of the night ascended almost imperceptibly to 
her throne in the skies. The peaks seemed to stand out to treble their 
ordinary proportions as the silvery rays announced the approaching disk. 
The phantom clouds anon glided athwart her pale beams ; and as the 
empress of the heavens rose to her zenith the palpitating waters glistened 
as it were in the sheen of myriads of gems. The mountains on every 
side became stronger in outline, and every trembling leaf and interming- 
ling bough was touched by the mystic spell. Now the base of the mighty 
range is in the glow, and the light creeping up soon the crest stands out 
in bold relief against the luminous sky, and the scene partakes of Fai/v 
land. It was truly a realization of all that had been promised. 

So bright was the road ahead that the quartet resolved to go on to 
Pittsburgh by moonlight, and the ride was one which the flight of time will 
not soon erase from the remembrance of those who composed the company. 

Two-thirds of the distance to Pittsburgh covered and Connellsville is 
reached. Here is another busy center of coal interests, and noted as 
the most extensive coke depot in the United States. It is the entrepot 
of the coke region, and from now on branches will be marked from the 
main stem, extending in almost every direction, and bringing the enor- 
mous business of the multitudinous tributary ovens to the line. Some 
conception may be formed of the extent of the coke traffic when it is 
stated that there are upward of five thousand ovens on the Pittsburgh 
Division and branches radiating from it. The coke is shipped to all parts 
of the continent and to Europe, and statistics showing the number of car- 
loads handled every year would surprise the majority of people who have 
no idea of the amount that is consumed. Connellsville is the junction of 
the branch to Uniontown, twelve and a half miles distant. It is in fact 
just so many miles of coke-ovens. Seven miles from Uniontown are the 
noted Fayette Springs. Three miles west of Connellsville is Broad Ford, 
whence a branch line extends to Mount Pleasant, ten miles, and there are 
not only coke-ovens on one side of the road, but on both sides almost, if 



Picturesque B. (nuJ O. 




not quite, without 
in the limits ot the 
almost as lioht as 
of the innumerable 
fire-vomiting chimneys of thi 
darkness and give the place 



intermission. With- 
metropolis night is 
day, the fierce glare 
coke-ovens, the high 
iron-works, and the open furnaces, dispel 
a weird, unearthly appearance. And it is 



thus nearly all the way to Pittsburgh: first there are long lines of open- 
mouthed ovens sending their peculiar thin and noxious smoke upward 
on the right, and then a mile or two and another long line of these 
brazen-throated fire-eaters, the river just beyond assuming a hue as if 
molten streams of lava had been poured out upon its surface. It is di- 
rectly between counter-fires, for upon the opposite side of the river are 
more coke-ovens; and so the line runs, — coke-ovens here, there and every- 
where, and the whole territory alive as it were with begrimed workers of 
the night. Just below Connellsville is the magnificent new bridge, now 
in the last stage of completion, and over which will pass the through 
trains on the B. and O. road from Chicago by what is known as the Wheel- 
ing cut-off. This new line of railroad is now in course of construction, 



134 Into New Territory. 

and will shorten tlie time of travel between New York and Chicago by- 
three or four hours. 

At McKeesport, a thriving busy place where reside thousands of miners, 
and where capital is employed with unstinted hand, the Youghiogheny 
meets the Monongahela, and the two rivers join in one continuous flow. 
Just before arriving at Pittsburgh the Edgar Thompson steel-works are 
passed, the great area covered by the company being lit up by electric 
lights, the effect of which, seen from the train, is very striking. In the 
glare and the shadows of the electricity the workmen look like giants, 
and their flitting about peoples the place with ghostly visions. Pitts- 
burgh, while already a very important point in the B. and O. system, 
will soon become much more so, the completion of the Junction road 
insuring unsurpassed facilities which, by the way, will be entirely and 
exclusively independent of those possessed by the competing company. 
As it is now, a change of cars is necessitated at Pittsburgh for Cleve- 
land, Detroit, and other western cities, but it is the only change between 
Washington and these points. With the completion of the route through 
Pittsburgh there will be no change whatever to the places named, or to 
the great oil regions, Buffalo, Rochester, and other centers that are now 
practically non-competing from a railroad point of view. By the B. and 
O. it is seventy odd miles shorter from Cleveland to the National Capital 
than by any other line, and from Detroit nearly ninety miles shorter. The 
opening up of such a range of essentially new territory to the Baltimore 
and Ohio road, with the advantages of direct communication to the great 
lake regions, will much increase the magnitude of its system, which is 
already one of the largest in extent in the world. 

Back to Cumberland again was but the run of a little over five hours, 
as the distance is only one hundred and fifty miles. 



IN THE MOUNTAINS. 



From this time forward the route is upon the main line of the B. and 
0. direct to the West, with no more side tours over branches or divisions, 
but the one preeminently grand tour — that over the Alleghany Mountains. 

While much has been seen of the picturesque in the roving of the 
quartet, there is to come that which in comparison is but as the work 
of th(! amateur likened to the chef cVmuvre of the master. True it is 
that the Valley of the Virginia presents a varied panorama, gk 



Picturesque B. and 0. 



135 



detail and Wonderful in contrasts, but the Old Alleghanies themselves 
are the very personification of artistic imagination, — of all that is grand, 
wild and tremendous in granite upheavals. The best of descriptive 
writers, — those whose play of imagination enables them to find words for 
almost every novel or striking object, 
and whose acquaintance with the dic- 
tionary and with synonyms affords them 
an unlimited fluency of expression, — 
have confessed in the past, as they 
must do in the future, their inability 
to do the Alleghanies absolute justice. 
The literary ability of the Fairy, if 
indeed possessed qualifications worthy 
of being thus designated, had more 
than once upon the trip been taxed to 
the utmost to find fitting language in 
which to express what to the eye is 
quickly appreciated, but which to con- 
vey to paper is entirely another thing. 
It would have been an easier task hai 
the trip been made from west to east 
instead of vice versa, for then the in- 
spiration of the ride over the Allegha- 
nies might have found vent in terms 
and similes which were fresh and at 




136 .1 Long ami n Stro,,;/ Pull. 

command. Now, however, after the glowing descriptions already writ- 
ten, to expect him to record accurately the journey from the head of the 
Potomac to the Ohio was asking more than was in him. Not that his 
enthusiasm had subsided, or that appreciation had failed to kindle in 
him an all-controlling desire to proclaim to the world the glories of the 
scenery, which follow one upon the other so rapidly as to be almost over- 
powering in their matchless and impressive sublimity. Those whose hap- 
piness it has been to cross the Alleghanies on the B. and O. by daylight 
need not be told that there is no line of railroad in this country, if 
indeed in the world, that can be compared to it for variety of moun- 
tain scenery. The fact that it is known far and wide as the " Picturesque 
Line of America " is but a proof of the distinction which is unques- 
tionably its due. Those who are strangers to the comforts, conveniences 
and enjoyments of the road can have no conception of them except by 
actual experience ; and while the effort to picture the journey will be 
most earnest, the |M>ilrayal will certainly fall far short of proving perfect. 

From Cumlii'ihiinl iliiiiiio-h Will's Gap an acquaintance is once more 
resumed with thi- I'litoinar. whose banks gradually come into closer prox- 
imity, the water getting more shallow and much clearer, so that the 
pebbles and moss at the bottom become distinctly visible, as if nothing 
intervened but a sheet of glass. 

At Keyser are the extensive cattle-yards of the Company, which, 
together with other established interests, render this a place of considera- 
ble thrift. Just here the road is through a dark chasm, where the ledges 
thrusting out on either side cast a deep gloom over the track and train 
alike. 

Piedmont, five miles farther, is, as the name implies, the foot as it 
were to the ascent of the mountains. Its appearance is not particularly 
inviting, but from a business standpoint it has attractions which com- 
mercial men quickly appreciate. The B. and O. Company has large shops 
here, as it is the terminus of a division of the road. The location is an 
exceedingly happy one, being not merely at the base of an abruptly-rising 
range, but in a ravine down which hurls a torrent and whose shores are 
thickly wooded. Here commences the seventeen-mile grade, as railroad- 
men call it, and it is one stretch of grandeur that is, perhaps, without an 
equal. The locomotive at once gives evidence of the strain to which it 
is subjected in conquering the steadily-increasing altitude, and its hoarse 
breathings are echoed in the recesses of the distant mountains, where 
they die away in the still atmosphere that reverberates its sighful re- 
sponse. The Potomac, dwindling into comparatively insignificant pro- 
portions, loses itself at last in the hidden springs of its .source. The 
good-bye to the,familiiir thread of water is with regret: but for this 
the fury of Savage Itucr, which |iliiiincs cmw.inl lietwi'cn the gorges 



138 Three. Thousand Feet Up. 

of the peak from which it derives its name, abundantly compensates. 
Deeper now and more sonorous the engine growls as it grasps the steel- 
clad steps in its steep ascent, and more distant the river that runs in its 
rocky channel far below. There is a turn in the mountain-side, and the 
steam-choked motor is allowed a few moments' respite. Meanwhile the 
eye of the traveler is delighted with what would seem to be an infinity 
of space were its width not limited by the walls of the gorge, upon the 
rugged edges of which are to be found growing in scant soil the spruce 
and the pine. Struggling waters trickle down the crumbling sandstone, 
and vegetation of a sparse description hangs over on the verge of despair. 
Openings here, great rents in the rocks there, and century-battered peaks 
that reach appealingly to the clouds, as if in agony at the ruthlessness 
of the elements which they send down upon them. In short the entire 
picture is one continuous testimony to the complete ruin that has been 
effected by volcanic action. Back around the curve once more, so abrupt 
and so rocky is the path ahead that one involuntarily pays silent tribute 
to the hardy men who crushed the mountains and took from their very 
breasts the substance which now constitutes so solid a base for the train. 
Here is Nature in her glory; here she reigns in majesty undisputed, her 
power untrammeled, and her sway absolute. Men have dared to defile 
rocks and trees, but the ruins of the old mill which was to saw in twain 
the monarchs of the forest tell how futile the effort. The structure, long 
since gone to decay, now only demonstrates the contrast between the hand 
of man and that of Nature. Progressing by slow strides the engine is 
once more within the confines of mountain solemnity, and there is no 
other evidence of human existence than the seared rocks, the cross-ties, 
and the steel over which the way is made. 

The ascent continues, and the aptly-named station Altamont comes 
into view, and the snorting and long-suppressed efforts of the steam to 
escape from the great iron-bound boiler cease. The mountains are row 
below, for the train has reached the summit and the eye roams at will 
over the billowy masses. Savage River had gone no man could tell 
where, and its place had been taken by another and then another stream; 
and Crabtree Gorge, the last opening that had been passed through in 
the upward course, now presented the aspect of an exceedingly narrow 
ravine. The only wonder seemed to be how a railroad train could ever 
penetrate its granite depths. 

The elevation is now nearly three thousand feet above tide-water, and 
the atmospheric change is at once perceptible. The lungs, stirred to 
unwonted activity by the exhilarating draught, expand to new action, 
and one stands more erect, feeling that there is much in life, and that 
he is infinitely better prepared to enjoy it when every physical power is 
so invigoratingly stimulated. 




E HEART OF THE ALLEGHANIES — CHEAT RIVER. 



THE GLADES. 



The train stands upon the urest of the range that divides the waters 
flowing tlirougli the Ohio and the Mississippi to the Gulf of Mexico on 
the west, and those which feed the Potomac and the Chesapeake until 
they empty into the Atlantic on the east. Here is the head of the 
Youghiogheny, and its width is but a man's step. 

The lay of the country, as the expression goes, is of the meadow order, 
with undulating surface and billowy eminences. A three miles' jaunt 
and Deer Park comes into view, its location upon the brow of a long 
sloping promontory striking the observer at first sight as singularly pic- 
turesque. The enterprise and liberality of the Baltimore and Ohio Rail- 
road Company made the Glades habitable, and more than this the most 
enjoyable section which can be found anywhere within a day's ride of 
the leading cities not only of the East but of the M^est as well. It is 
less than twenty-four hours' ride to Chicago or Saint Louis, and leaving 
Cincinnati in the evening, breakfast the following morning is taken on 
top of the Alleghanies. So too from New York and Philadelphia, as it is 
only a single night's ride from either of these cities, and from Baltimore 
and Washington but the matter of eight or nine hours, with three fast 
express trains in both directions each day. The facility with which the 
Glades are reached is a strong point in favor of Deer Park, and also 
of Oakland, the twin resort being only three miles distant. No stage 
riding or journeying in vehicle of any kind is necessitated, as both 
places are immediately adjacent to the track, and in pleasant weather few 
if any of the guests think of any other power of locomotion in going 
from depot to hotel than that which they themselves possess. The Com- 
jiany has expended money with almost prodigal hand on these two resorts. 
Improvements and additions have just been completed which will, it is 
estimated, double their capacity and meet every requirement which may 
have been deemed wanting. It would be a task to conjecture what might 
have been lacking other than increased accommodations to realize demands 
and insure satisfaction. So popular are these houses that heretofore only 
those who came at the commencement of the season were certain of enter- 
tainment, and it was not an infrequent occurrence — last season, at all 
events — to decline the reception of more guests than the house contained. 
The rei>utation of the culinary department is such that heads of families 
who could sjiend only Sundays with their families at these resorts looked 
forw.ird tu thcii' brief visit with as keen anticipations of the good things 
for the inner man as of those for the outer man. It is not the easiest 



Picturesque B. and O. 




BLrkllOUN w \i 



world to decide upon 
IN. a place where one can 
pass the summer time 
iujov not only the comforts of home in 
g-f iieral, but also the satisfaction of knowing 
that tlie table will not be such as to make a 
man wonder why he gave up housekeeping, even temporarily, 
to be subjected to such aggravations of appetite. Although not the rule, 
perhaps, at the average summer resort to allow guests to draw their sus- 
tenance mainly from the scenery, yet it is evident, from the way many of 
them are managed, that the proprietors' convictions are pretty firm that 
such sort of repasts are to a certain extent soul-satisfying. Neither is it 
always considered desirable even to lay carpet upon the floor of the rooms, 
at least other than a little strip by the bedside; and auA'thing in the way 
of a box to place a wash-basin on and a four-by-six-inch mirror to make 
toilet by are thought to be good enough for visitors. Whatever may be 
the rule followed at some other places, it has no controlling influence at 
Deer Park or Oakland, as every room at both resorts is carpeted and pro- 



142 Everi/ Detail Complete. 

vided with furniture of the most substantial character, in designs pleasing 
to the eye and meeting all the requirements of practical use. Patrons 
may take their choice of location. Should one desire to be out upon the 
open mountain with an unobstructed view of many miles extent, and 
with more country rambles than he can ever make in a stay of reasonable 
length, he may stop at Deer Park. On the other hand, if it pleases him 
best to be quartered where noble old trees cast over him their protecting 
shade; if he loves to sit where his eye can roam down through clustering 
foliage affording here and there glimpses of clear and sparkling streams, 
alighting presently upon the snug and peaceful village of stores and 
churches and cozy homes, then he will go to Oakland. Perchance he 
may prefer a variety, spending a portion of his time at the one place 
and a portion at the other. In such a case the wish need be no more 
than father to the accomplishment. A fine road connects the two re- 
sorts, affording a taste of mountain driving and valley speeding, with 
the only regret that it is not double the distance. During the season it 
is almost a boulevard, presenting as it does all the animated appearance 
of a fashionable drive. Many of the guests having their own equipages 
make daily trips backward and forward. Others not so provided are 
afforded ample privileges to enjoy their liking for a spirited drive, as the 
livery facilities are all that the most exacting could wish for. The main 
building at Deer Park has by the recent improvements been enlarged and 
the dining-room increased to double its former capacity. Flanking either 
side of the hotel are the new annexes, — the architecture of the Queen 
Anne order, — and their e.xterior adding greatly to the ornamental attrac- 
tiveness of the place. They are connected by light and graceful passage- 
ways, covered overhead and so arranged as to be closed on all sides in 
inclement weather. In the west annex is a ball-room, — one of the most 
spacious and best arranged to be found at any summer resort. To attempt 
to detail the number of places where guests may take a walk or choose 
for a day's picnicing, or for other enjoyments, would be almost like count- 
ing the sands upon the seashore. In so wide and varied an extent of 
cfiuntrv as the Glades one may find new delights every day of the season. 
Ainoni;- citli(>r inqirdvcniciits made liy th<> B. and O. Company at Oak- 
hind a. wini;- has liccn l)uilt on the cast ciiil nf the same length as that on 
(he west, and both ends are supplemented with entirely new structures, so 
I hat the walk to the end of the halls is something of a journey. Also a 
new liall-room has been provided, and this is one of the more prominent 
fcatiiris of Oakland, as it is of Deer Park. It is an extension back toward 
till' iiHiuntain from the east wing and opening from the main parlor, as 
well as out upon the gallery. Excellent musical organizations have been 
perfected for both resorts, and there will be concerts during the day and 
balls every evening. The character of the guests at Deer Park and 



Picturesque B. and O. 



143 



Oakland has since the first opening of the resorts been strictly of the 
liighest order. The old aristocratic families of Baltimore, \^ ashington 
and Philadelphia have for many seasons spent the summer in the Glades 
of the Alleghanies, and of late years Western people 
have become attached to the locality, and not a few of 
the best-known families regularly make the season at 
Deer Park or else at Oakland. The result is that the 
social aspect at either of these places corresponds with 

that which is found at only a few of the 

summer resorts, and the friendships estab- 
lished during the summer very often last for 

life. Of the beneficial effects of a sojourn at 

this altitude little need be said, as those who 

have studied the advantages of pure, brcozx 

air, and of an atmosphere 

that never during the hot- ;. 

test months exceeds 70°, 

and invariably at night is 

sufficicntlv cool to necessi 

tdte thf use ot blankets, 

and plent\ of them, are 

faiiuliu ^Mtll tli( fa.fs of 





144 Rod and Gun. 

the case. There are now accommodations at Deer Park and Oakland 
for fully a thousand people, and the houses under the immediate personal 
management, as they are, of one of the best-known and most popular 
hotel men in the country, there can be no question of the entertainment 
being all that the most particular could demand. 

The Company has just issued an attractive little book entitled "The 
Glades of the Alleghanies," which is specially devoted to descriptive and 
practical matter relative to the two resorts. Prospective visitors will 
be amply repaid for the little trouble they may take to write for this 
publication, which can be had by addressing the Company at Baltimore 
or, after the middle of June, at the hotels direct. 

An important characteristic of the Glades, and one which it would 
be inexcusable to neglect to mention, considering the numbers who par- 
ticipate in the sport, are the facilities for hunting, which are first-class, 
game being abundant in the vicinity. It is no uncommon thing to meet, 
in the office or halls of either Deer Park or Oakland, gentlemen attired in 
flannel shirts, closely-belted blouses and high top-boots, their ruddy com- 
plexions and springy step denoting recuperated powers and perfect health. 
There are day jaunts almost without number, and for a week's camping 
out there is no section east of the Rocky Mountains to be compared with 
the Blackwater country back in the mountains, a day's travel from Oak- 
land. In this wild and almost untrodden region there is game in great 
plenty, large as well as small, and of an endless variety. The fishing is on 
a par with the hunting, the strings of trout sent back being not infre- 
quently of such dimensions as to warrant the introduction of the delicacy 
upon the hotel bill - of - fares. There is good fishing nearer by, but the 
Blackwater is the king of all streams for trout. 

From early in the spring until late in the fall the B. and O. grants 
tickets from all principal points on its lines to these resorts at scarcely 
more than the regular fare one way, and during the sea.son many through 
passengers to the < ast or west, as the case may be, take advantage of the 
privilege allowed i hem on their tickets of stopping over to spend such 
time as they may have at command in enjoying the entertainment at one 
or the other of the Company's hotels. 



ON TO THE WEST. 



The Four formed a group upon the rear platform of the car as the 
train left Oakland, but the view of the lovely resort was quickly lost. A 
sharp curve in the road, witii the mountains, shut out from sight every- 



Picturesque li. and O. 




CHEAT UIVER, NEAR R0WLE8BURG. 

thing but their own granite countenances. The line of Maryland was 
shortly recrossed and the train once more in West Virginia, the labored 
respiration of the engine indicating unmistakably the fact that the grade 
was a heavy one; and another bend in the track soon qualified the indica- 
tion, as a glance down the precipitous side of the mountain hardly reached 
the river below. River, however, it could not in justice be called, as it is 
barely ton feet across; but it makes up in depth what it lacks in breadth 
as it rushes, with great velocity on its sparkling way to some unknown 
point of junction with sister waters. 

A run of ten miles brought the quartet to Cranberry SuniTiiit, whence 
is exhibited a panorama of wide extent. Tt partakes of the valley char- 
acter, notwithstanding its high elevation. The surrounding peaks are 
not so distinctly marked as they are from a lower altitude. Pastoral 
beauties enter into the scene, there being little patches of wheat and 
other grain that betoken the efforts of the husbandman to obtain from 



146 Where Mc Clellan. Chased Floyd. 

the kindly earth a suitable return for his honest toil. Looking westward 
the hills grow more symmetrical and more sharply outlined. Back of 
them is a clearly-defined range of mountains, and still beyond is seen a 
solitary peak rising up high and bold as the center of observation. A 
deviation in the line of the road revealed a gorge which, opening up on 
either side, displayed Salt Lick Falls. The fall of water is not great, but 
is most attractive for its graceful forms and delicate transparency. The 
iron steed now makes better time, as it is on a down-grade, and for a 
change it is not unpleasant to watch the rapidly-approaching stream and 
the increasing elevation of the rocky walls adjacent. The density of the 
forest through which the train cuts its way now served to shut out every- 
thing else, and the attention of the quartet was for the nonce turned to 
themselves. This lasted scarcely a moment, for Rowlesburg came into 
view, and the first sight of Cheat River was obtained. The stream, con- 
trary to the usual rule, is well named, for it is like the thimble-rigger's 
marble, " now you see it and now you don't." But the conundrum of its 
source was trifling compared with how the train was ever going to get 
free of the prodigious piles of rock that appeared to wall in the place like 
an amphitheater. To go straight ahead would be to butt square up 
against a bulwark of granite beside which the dome of the Capitol at 
Washington would be as a fly-speck. Twisting and turning, dashing up 
to the very face of the rock here and almost leaping a stream there, the 
train extricated itself from the apparently impenetrable caiion only to be 
as inevitably hemmed in by another. So close is the companionship of 
these ponderous giants of granite that the sun at certain seasons of the 
year rarely dissipates the shadows, while during the summer months its 
rays are shut out until ten or eleven o'clock. It was at the southern 
extremity of this series of wild gorges that the preliminary skirmishing 
of the war occurred, McClellan chasing Floyd down the Cheat River and 
succeeding in inflicting such punishment upon him that the Confederate 
troops became demoralized and fled in all directions. Not a few of them 
were entirely unacquainted with the trackless section, and naught was 
ever known of them save that their companies' rolls bore the melancholy 
report " missing." 

No longer does the engine proceed on its way quiet and tractable, 
but instead the tremendous throbbing tells of the sharpness of the ascent; 
and one need not lean out of the car-window to realize the increasing ele- 
vation, for the railroad runs to the verge of the chasm. Down, down, 
as far as the eye can reach, the mighty torrent rushes and tumbles in 
great jumps over gigantic rocks that have broken away from above and 
settled in the narrow bed. The mountains on the other side rise abruptly 
thousands of feet in height, and nowhere in all the great forest that 
covers them can the eye of man detect a break, so ('lose is the growth. 



Picturesque B. and 0. 



147 



The train passes along the ledges, relinquishing one only to climb an- 
other of greater elevation than before, the river meanwhile becoming like 
a silver thread. Up in the dizzy heights the line of the road pursues its 
course, and the traveler can look dovrn on one side into nearly impene- 
trable depths, and on the other side the bleak rocks tower grim and for- 
bidding. The awful crevices made in some of them by the tireless action 
of time have caused large, overhanging crags to form almost an archway 
beneath which the engine runs. Many of these are almost startling in 
shape, — some of them resembling gigantic heads surmounted by sparsely 
clothed spruce-trees, with tiieir naked arms stretched out beseechingly, as 
it were for mercy. -^^ N" succnr can ^Mgb, reach them, 

for no foot can ap- TO . proach their ffBo' "Sfei habitation : 

there they ""^^f^ • - "'^ --<» 'imst .stand 

while i ^^ ^ ' ' -f ' fiS'"5 8" on 




until the angry heavens destroy them with its bolt 
{^Z w * ■ liquid fire, or through the unrelenting bitterness of 

^^mP /w ^^'^ ^^'""^ ^^'^^ ^'"'^ robbed of their existence; then they 
^^jP' ( y totter and fall, always clear of the track, to the foot of 
^■H^ the gorge below, where they are ruthlessly battered 

about by the furious waters or perchance some portion of 
them is thrown up on a barren spot to rot. The mighty buttresses of 
rock continue to fall into line, as it were, like giant soldiers to repel the 
advance of man; but the while they rear their repellent heads the train 
glides in and about their feet with impunity. 

From shelf to shelf, from crag to crag, from brink to brink, move the 
swift-revolving wheels, the eye, forced to follow the declivities of th<- 
inclosing walls, endeavoring to find rest upon the boiling waters of the 
pent-up river. 



148 The Very Heart. 

Like a flash comes the transformation, and for a moment one can 
scarcely believe that it is the heart of the Alleghanies. Here to the 
right is a garden-patch presenting all the exquisite combinations of colors 
to be found in the choicest of plants and foliage. From the heart of 
the serpentine walks, the rich-hued hedges, and the trembling lily-stalks, 
spring the bright, chaste waters which have been stolen from a mountain 
brooklet and lifted up to add fresh sweetness to the pure atmosphere. 
The intelligence and taste manifested in this little floricultural display 
were not of an ordinary kind; indeed the mind that conceived and the 
hands that developed this little gem are to be envied. This is Buckhorn 
Wall, the most noted and the most admired view that can be had from 
any known point in the Alleghany range. It has been the theme of many 
descriptions and the inspiration of not a few of the most distinguished 
triumphs of artistic culture. To enable the road to span the tremendous 
gorge a massive wall was constructed of cut stone for a distance of 
several hundred feet and to the depth of more than one hundred feet. 
Looking directly down from a position on the great flat stones forming 
the upper barrier, the declivity to the end of the masonry itself is appall- 
ing, but with four times the number of feet added to it the distance to 
the water-level is not overestimated. The river makes a bold turn at 
nearly right-angles, and this opens up to view a deep cafion extending 
for miles, which is guarded by mountain peaks compared to which those 
beheld elsewhere on the journey are as infants. Line upon line distinctly 
trace the contour of the mountain, until they become a labyrinth, the way 
between them indicated only by the stream which has become placid and 
smooth as ivory. The shadowy outlines of other peaks steal out from the 
haze, and in the blue of the lessening distance almost lead one to doubt 
whether they are really substance or merely formations of rapidly-shifting 
clouds. Their hoary heads seem to bid welcome to the Alleghanies over 
which they have for untold centuries kept watch and guard. Directly 
opposite, in the middle ground, so to speak, towers up the tallest moun- 
tain of all; its configuration is visible to the water's edge. Its symmetrical 
proportions are cause for wonderment that any upheaval of nature should 
have assumed such a shape. Like its fellows, its form, though graceful, 
is still weird in the extreme. The interlocked trees pad its breast with 
the most pleasing shades of green, but the awe is nevertheless over- 
powering, and man feels his littleness of stature in the presence of such 
giant works of nature. Nothing could be in stronger contrast to this 
wild and unrestrained grandeur than the tropical brilliancy of colors on 
the little spot which has been reclaimed from out all this wilderness of 
untamed creation. From the cliff thus overtopped hy blooming beauty 
falls a cataract, its [learly waters breaking over sharp ledges of rock, 
trickling here and merrily sporting there with projecting shelves, and at 



Pictumsquc, B. and O. 149 

last, in one supreme leap, falling to the lowest depths. Down on the 
steep river banks men have toiled almost in vain to find a resting-place, 
that speckled beauties may be enticed from the water and taken as 
trophies of the perilous descent to obtain them. 

A plunge through the rocky gap at the western extremity and Buck- 
horn Wall is gone; so too the river, and for a time the journey appears to 
have lost its charm; but other attractions soon demand attention, and 
though the route may not be so ineffably grand, .still it has much to 
please the eye, even that of an artist. As the train glides to lower alti- 
tudes the country opens up, and in place of the savage and uncultivated 
in nature there come familiar scenes, which carry the beholder back to 
real life, and take away, to a certain extent, the great tension which the 
nerves have been called upon to sustain for so manj' hours. It might be 
imagined from this that there are terrors in crossing the Alleghanies, and 
that the transit were one of comparative pain rather than unalloyed pleas- 
ure; this, however, is not the fact, for the most timid have no cause for 
apprehension. The track of the road, laid as it is upon the solid rock, the 
force of men stationed all along the route, and the necessary reduction of 
speed in ascending and descending heavy grades, do away with all possi- 
bility of accident and fortifies the passenger with perfect confidence that 
no road could be safer and none less liable to untoward accidents. The 
strain is in the unusual atmosphere pervading the mountains, in the wild 
witchery of the savage gorges, the precipitous cliffs and angry waters. 
He is indeed to be compassionated who could make the journey over the 
Alleghanies without having his heart stirred to the highest degree and 
his senses made willing captive to the wonderful scenery which belongs 
to them. 

Grafton is the end of the third division of the Baltimore and Ohio 
Railroad, and is possibly the busiest junction point on the entire line, since 
the trains diverge here for Parkersburg, Cincinnati and Saint Louis, as 
well as for Wheeling and Chicago. Another of the Company's hotels is 
to be found at Grafton. The renovations and improvements which have 
been lately made add materially to its capacity for the prompt and satis- 
factory entertainment of guests. 

Clarksburg, W. Va., on the line to Parkersburg, is one of the largest 
towns in the state, and was the birthplace of Stonewall Jackson. The 
gas-coal interests are here largely developed, as are also the petroleum, it 
being the center of very extensive oil-producing regions. The mineral-oil 
now so well known was named from a spring here, and for a number of 
years was valued only as a liniment, and as such was sold in large quan- 
tities. Crossing the Ohio at Parkersburg the Baltimore and Ohio trains 
pass directly on to Cincinnati and thence to Saint Louis without change. 
Baltimore, by the B. and O. road, is no less than two hundred and fifty 



150 The Inevitable. 

nine miles the nearest seaport from Saint Louis, two hundred and sixty- 
two miles the nearest from Louisville, two hundred and twenty-five miles 
the nearest from Cincinnati, one hundred and fifty-six miles the nearest 
from Chicago, and one hundred and seventeen miles the nearest from 
Pittsburgh. These advantages of distance over those to New York from 
the cities named furnish the basis for the differential rates claimed by the 
B. and 0.; and this simple statement may serve to explain to those who 
are uninitiated the cause of the many prolonged contentions between the 
trunk lines over the matter of differentials. The northern trunk lines 
claim that freight rates to the seaport should be the same to New York 
as they are to Baltimore, and very naturally and sensibly the Baltimore 
and Ohio disputes this position, and, despite all the efforts to prevent it, 
has steadily maintained a tariff granting Baltimore the benefits of its 
geographical importance as the nearest of all the Atlantic seaport cities 
to the great commercial centers of the West. As there are doubtless 
many who are more or less mystified by the exact meaning of the words 
" trunk lines " a word or two in explanation may not be amiss. Let a 
person imagine the head and shoulders to be New England, and the legs 
and feet the West, and then remember that there are but four lines of 
railway between the East and the West, and it will at once be perceived 
that all the business between the sections must be done on these lines, or 
in other words that which comes from the feet and legs must pass through 
the trunk of the body to reach the head and arms, and vice versa. The 
force of the term " trunk lines " will from this be properly understood. 

From Grafton to Chicago, the fourth division, as it is called, of the 
Baltimore and Ohio terminates at the Ohio River, just below tiie city of 
Wheeling. Crossing the Ohio the road leads through such important 
business centers in the " Buckeye State " as Bellaire, Cambridge, Zanes- 
ville, Newark (from this point a branch extends to Columbus, thirty-three 
miles), Mansfield and Chicago Junction. This junction will in the near 
future acquire additional importance from the completion of two promi- 
nent lines of railway to an intersection of the B. and O. These will 
run direct to the West over the Chicago division of the Baltimore and 
Ohio Railroad. Between the junction and Chicago are Tiffin, Defiance, 
and other thriving cities, and the division bisects nearly, if not quite, all 
the leading lines that traverse the state. At Chicago, as well as at 
Cincinnati and Saint Louis, sharp and close connections are made with 
all routes leading to the West, Northwest and Southwest. 



INDEX, 



Alleshanies, The Heart of, 148. 

Altamont, 138. 

Auuiipolis, 48. 

Antietam, 59, 6.5, 70, 116. 

Ardent Spirits, 26. 

Ashby, Gen., 84. 

Baltimore, 18, 31, 140, 150. 

Banks, Gen., 70. 

Bath Alum Springs, 96. 

Bass fishing, 54. 55, 56, .57, 120, 121, 144. 

Beaver Dam Falls, 110. 

Ben, 12. 

B. & O., Origin of, 20; Preliminary 

meeting, 21; Early trials, 24; Credit, 

35; Financial exhibit, 35; Surplus 

fund, 35; Stock, 36; New general 

office building, 44. 
Berkeley Springs, 118. 
Bellaire, 150. 
Bolivar Heights, 62. 
Breckenridge, Gen., 84. 
Brown, John, 63, 64, 68. 
Brown, Alexander. 
Brown, George. 
Brooks, Chauncey B., 34. 
Buchanan, President, 31. 
Buckhorn Wall, 148. 
Buffalo, 134. 
Butler, Gen. Ben, 39. 
Burnside, G£n., 66. 
Byrne's Island, 68. 
Cacapon, 120. 
Cambridge, 150. 
Capon Springs, 76. 
Carroll, Chas., of Carrollton, 22, 34. 
Cars, Through, 10; No.217,11; Sleeping, 

14, 36, 112; Provision for smoking, 16; 

First passenger, 24; Parlor, 36, 112; 

Dining, 36, 126. 
Cedar Creek, 71. 
Charter, Railroad, first secured in the 

United States, 21; "More than the 

Lord's Prayer," 22. 
Charleston, 68. 
Chicaeo, 32, 140, 150. 
Cheat^River, 146, 148. 
Cincinnati, 31, 140, 149, 150. 
Clarksburg, 150. 
Cleveland, 134. 
Coal Fields, 124, 128. 
Coke, 132. 
Cooper, Peter, 37. 
Columbus, 150. 
Connelsville, 132. 
Corner Stone, Laying of, 22. 
Cranberry Summit, 145. 
Cross Keys, 84. 
Cucumber Palls, 130. 
Cumberland, 30, 123. 
Defiance, 150. 



Differential rates, 150. 

Detroit, 134. 

Devil's Backbone, 127. 

Dividends, First, 25. 

Dining halls, 124. 

Distances, Comparative, from seaport to 
West. 150. 

Dry Dock, 42. 

Early, Gen. .Tubal, 54, 71. 

Elevated roads, 9. 

Elevation, 138. 

Elevators, 36, 42. 

Ellicott, Thomas, 34. 

Ellicott's Mills, Opening of line to, 24. 

Emory, Gen., 72. 

Ewell, Gen., 70. 

Express, 36, 37. 

Fairy, The, 12. 

Falling Springs, 104. 

Fayette Springs, 132. 

Federal Hill, 39. 

Fremont, Gen., 84, 85. 

Frederick, 20, .54. 

Fritchie, Barbara, .52. 

Fix, A Virginia, 73. 

Floyd, Gen., 146. 

Garrett, John W., Chosen President, 31 ; 
His first annual report, 31 ; Keynote, 
32; Management during the war, 32; 
Succession, 34 ; Character of adminis- 
tration, 34. 

Gettysburg, 60, 66. 

Glades, The, 140. 

Goslien Springs, 92. 

Grant, Gen., 70. 

Grafton, 149. 

Hagerstown, 59, 

Harrisonburg, 84. 

Harper's Ferry, 31, 60. 

Harrison, William G., 34. 

Hayes, Ex-President, 66. 

Healing Springs, 102. 

Hoffman, George, 34. 

Hot Springs, 100. 

Horses, Their use upon the road, 26; 
Horses m. steam, 28, 30. 

Hunting. 88, 104, 118,144. 

Indian Creek, 132. 

Jackson, Stonewall. 53, 64, 65, 6(i, 70, 71, 
84,«5, 90, 112,150. 

Jack, Apple, 13. 

Jefferson Rock, 60. 

Jefferson, Thomas, 62. 

Johnstown, 128. 

Johnson, Gen. Joe, 64. 

Jones, Talbot, 34. 

Jordan Alum Springs, 94. 

Jordan's White Sulphur Springs, 68. 

Kearneysville, 116. 

Kernstown, 77. 



Keyser, 136. 

Key, Francis, 39. 

Lee, Gen. Robert E., (iO, fi4, 6.5, 66, 70, 90, 
116. 

Lui-ay Cave, 114. 

Le.xington, 89. 

Lorman, William, 34. 

Loudon Heights, 62. 

Locust Point, 38 ; Water front, 39 ; Emi- 
grant piers, 89; Treatment of emi- 
grants. 40; Receipts of emigrants, 41 ; 
Nationality, 41 ; Advantages as to dis- 
t.-uK'o to western points, 41. 

Manslicld, 150. 

Maryland Heights, 62. 

Martinsburg, fl6. 

McClellan, Gen'l, 59, 64, 66, 146. 

McKibbon, Isaac, 34. 

McMahon, J. L. L, 34. 

Morris, John B., 34. 

McKeesport, 134. 

McLane, Lewis, 34. 

Millboro Springs, 96. 

Milroy, Gen., 70. 

Millboro. 94. 

Mount Jackson, 78. 

Mount Plca.sant, 132. 

Mount Vernon, 50. 

Natural Bridge, 89. 

New Market, 84. 

Newark, 150. 

Oakland, 140. 

Ohio Pyle, 128. 

Ohio Pyle Falls, 129. 

Old Sweet Springs, 108. 

Oliver, Robert, 34. 

Orkney Springs, 82. 

Parkersburg, 31 , 149, 150. 

Patterson, William, 34. 

Piedmont. 136. 

Pittsburgh, 33, 134. 

Point of Rocks, 54. 

Potomac, The, 52. 

Quaitet, The, 11. 

Railroads.— First in U. S., 20; Comple- 
tion to Ellicotfs Mills, 24 ; To the Poto- 
mac, 28; To Frederick, 20; To Har- 
per's Ferry, 30; To Washington, 30; 
Comjiletion to Cumberland, 20; To 



A\ll.'rli 

A I 



n, :;■ T,'. Chicago," 33; 
.- Inst strike, 30. 


"First 


pi; ,V, HO^ 




1 . n;; Viaduct', 47. 

- ;.ili<ili, 44. 




\n.r--,l, 32, 23, 24,25,28. 
■jr l;:iihs, !)0, 92. 
.1. ,S|„u,gs,74. 





Salt Lick Falls, 146. 

Salt Sulphur Springs, 112 

Sesqui-Centeunial Celebration, 44. 

Sextet, The, 90. 

Seventeen Mile Grade, 136. 

Shenandoah, The, 68. 

Sharpsburir, 65. 

Shields, Gen., 71, 84, 85. 

Sheridan, Gen., 70, 72. 

Shenandoah Alum Springs, 83. 

Siegel, Gen., 84. 

Sir John's Run, 118. 

Staunton, 32, 89. 

Strasburg, 77, 84. 

Steam, Its appearance on English roads, 
27 ; First steam engine invented for 
passenger travel in U. S., 27; Trial 
trip, 28; Recommending steam power 
on B. and O., 29 ; The first locomotive, 
30. 

Steamship Lines, North-German Lloyds, 
41 ; Allan, 41. 

Stewart, William, 34. 

St. Louis, 31, 140, 149, 150. 

Stock Yards, 43. 

Stribling Springs, 90. 

Surplus Fund, 35; Stock, 24, 35, 36. 

Swann. Thomas, 34. 

Sweet Chalybeate Springs, 108. 

Tan Bark, 80. 

Telegraph, 36, 37, 38. 

ThoiJias, Phillip E. 

Time, By horses, 26; By the first passen- 
ger engine on trial trip, 28. 

Tiffin, 150. 

Tickets, Round trip, 113. 

Tobacco Warehouses, 42. 

Tom, 13. 

Trains, 7 p.m. from New York, 9 ; To Chi- 
cago, 10; To Cincinnati, 10; To St. 
Louis, 10; Solid, 10; Valley resorts, 
112, 113. 

Transfer Steamer " Canton," 42. > 

Trout Fishing, 88, 104, 118, 120, 144, 149. 

Trunk Lines, 1.50. 

W.illarr, (;,„. Lew, .54. 



\ :i-liiii:jii>ii, I';o|h.-im1 line from Bplti- 
iiM.,,. in '11 li^,..iii|,iPtion,30; Depot, 
IS. A,c,.->i,,i,uhli,- buildings, 49; Ad- 
vantages of arriving in and departing 
from the National Capital by B. and O., 
50; Line of road through city, 50. 



112. 



\\imlie-.,l,i, 70, 73,84. 
Y, T. Yellowstone, 11. 
Youghiogheny, The, 127 
Zane.sville, 150. 



im^. 



ves, tKrouoK wKose broken roof tKe sk^ looks "n.^"^"^- 
aniain, and shaliered cliT] , and sunn'>^vale, ~^ 

3 distant lake, foun-tains, and miaViW irees_ 
many a lazy syllable , repeahna ^ 
Bit old poetic leorends to the wind ." 











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